Need help finding floor pans..
Need help finding floor pans...and questions about installation
I've been searching for some replacement floor pans for my 1990 camaro and have come up with nothing... I checked classic industries and they want $350 for the entire set, but i was wondering if it would be at all possible to find them cheaper anywhere else??
TIA!
TIA!
Last edited by BAK12484; Dec 24, 2001 at 02:55 PM.
I did some research myself (as I had to replace my floor pans). I chose to go with Classic Industries, because at the time they were the least expensive vendor that guarenteed OEM fit.
Here's a link about my floor pans (if it helps):
http://www.lightstream.net/~the_maniac/floor.html
I would still recommend Classic Industries. To make the job go as easy as possible, you'd want pressed pans that fit like the factory pan. And almost any vendor with OEM fitting floor pans will want about $300 or more.
Check JC Whitney (I know they have carpet, but I don't remember if they had pans).... Or NextGEN parts (they typically want more then Classic Industries)... Do not waste time pulling full pans from a Camaro or Firebird in a junk yard....
That's my 2 cents.
Here's a link about my floor pans (if it helps):
http://www.lightstream.net/~the_maniac/floor.html
I would still recommend Classic Industries. To make the job go as easy as possible, you'd want pressed pans that fit like the factory pan. And almost any vendor with OEM fitting floor pans will want about $300 or more.
Check JC Whitney (I know they have carpet, but I don't remember if they had pans).... Or NextGEN parts (they typically want more then Classic Industries)... Do not waste time pulling full pans from a Camaro or Firebird in a junk yard....
That's my 2 cents.
thanks for the info. i spent another hour or so trying to find other places but just decided that im gonna order from classic industries. I just have a few quick questions for ya... did you disconnect the fuel/brake/whatever lines before you cut the stock floorpan our, or were just **really** careful?? 
...and for another major question that i need to know...
does anybody know if i would be able to just install the replacement floor pans on top of the stock ones?? This would make installation a bit easier as we wouldnt have to cut everything to fit perfectly. I will be coating the new ones with por-15 so I wouldnt have to worry about them rusting out...and i would sand and coat the stock ones to so they dont rust more. Would this be a good idea or no?? ...and would i need to weld the new one in, or would riveting the replacement ones suffice??
TIA

...and for another major question that i need to know...
does anybody know if i would be able to just install the replacement floor pans on top of the stock ones?? This would make installation a bit easier as we wouldnt have to cut everything to fit perfectly. I will be coating the new ones with por-15 so I wouldnt have to worry about them rusting out...and i would sand and coat the stock ones to so they dont rust more. Would this be a good idea or no?? ...and would i need to weld the new one in, or would riveting the replacement ones suffice??
TIA
BAK12484,
1st, go to my link (it has cut out of my old pans in the pics)....
To help answer your questions:
1st - We gutted the interior. Nothing more (no relocation or disconnection of the break or gas lines).
2nd - During the removal, I recommend a good set of air chissel bits. It makes short work and cuts like a hot knife through butter. You'll spend too much time/sweat using a metal cutting wheel (and go through many wheels).
3rd - If you are going to do this right (which is why you're buying the pans from Classic Industries), don't cut corners now. Take out ALL the cancerous material. Do not diliberately "lay" the good metal on bad. Besides, YOU have to pop off and re-use the seat braces (you will see them once the carpet is out). Those do NOT come with the resto floor pans. I also recommend, if the tranny tunnel is good, attempt to keep it (as it makes a good structure and weld point for the new pans).
4th - POR15, good man. So I know you wanna do this right. You will have some custom fitting of the new floor pans (there is nothing wrong with re-using parts of the old pans, so long as they are 100% solid metal). Make sure the new pans are trimmed to have about a 1 inch overlap on the old pans. I used POR15 on pans as well. My father used some of the left over on a rusted hood of a garden tractor (that sits out side all year) and in about a year and a half, no rust has come up on the tractor!!
I hope this helps. Keep in mind, I have yet to see a true book or guide that says "This is how this project is done". So you are getting my advice strictly from my research and experience. As with any restoration, be prepared to alter your plans as needed and BE CAREFUL!
Good luck
1st, go to my link (it has cut out of my old pans in the pics)....
To help answer your questions:
1st - We gutted the interior. Nothing more (no relocation or disconnection of the break or gas lines).
2nd - During the removal, I recommend a good set of air chissel bits. It makes short work and cuts like a hot knife through butter. You'll spend too much time/sweat using a metal cutting wheel (and go through many wheels).
3rd - If you are going to do this right (which is why you're buying the pans from Classic Industries), don't cut corners now. Take out ALL the cancerous material. Do not diliberately "lay" the good metal on bad. Besides, YOU have to pop off and re-use the seat braces (you will see them once the carpet is out). Those do NOT come with the resto floor pans. I also recommend, if the tranny tunnel is good, attempt to keep it (as it makes a good structure and weld point for the new pans).
4th - POR15, good man. So I know you wanna do this right. You will have some custom fitting of the new floor pans (there is nothing wrong with re-using parts of the old pans, so long as they are 100% solid metal). Make sure the new pans are trimmed to have about a 1 inch overlap on the old pans. I used POR15 on pans as well. My father used some of the left over on a rusted hood of a garden tractor (that sits out side all year) and in about a year and a half, no rust has come up on the tractor!!
I hope this helps. Keep in mind, I have yet to see a true book or guide that says "This is how this project is done". So you are getting my advice strictly from my research and experience. As with any restoration, be prepared to alter your plans as needed and BE CAREFUL!
Good luck
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