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Where the metal meets each other at the top of the rear hatch, it is beginning to come apart and off. Is there a clip or adhesive i could use, there appears to be a small clip on one side but not on the other? i am not interested in removing the trim, just wanna get it back together. Thanks
Its a bit more involved than that.
Nuts to the glass/ hinge will need to be loose to tap the metal trim back on the glass. There is a flat piece of metal that's sandwiched in there. How is the rear hatch metal to body alignment? Decklid/glass slid back?
i can push the trim back on it easily, it is not very far off just starting to come off. Everytime i push it back on it will stay for a moment then pop back to its position. The hatch is alligned pretty well, i havent noticed any gap differences, but the metal of the hatch is maybe a 1/4 inch passed the rear quarters at the most? Thank you for your response, please tell me more about how to correct this as this is the only flaw i can find on the car.
Last edited by 1985CamaroSport; Feb 14, 2018 at 03:50 PM.
Spray between the joints with brakeleen, wipe away dirt and moisture with qtips till clean, then place epoxy between the joints, then put something between the trim and body of the car to hold it in place until it dries. Wipe away excess before it hardens
what epoxy do you recommend? i have never used one before but im sure its not impossible, would it be able to hold some tension? because when i push it back into place, i can feel some tension pushing out again. thanks for your reply.
How big is the gap between the 2 ends when u push them back on the glass?
If i push them both, the gap would not be noticeable unless you knew to look there, even now, you can only see it from 5 ft or closer and i wear glasses . My guess is a quarter inch at the most, but if they were both back on the glass i dont think anyone, including myself, would notice unless i leaned over to look at it. the metal does not touch each other when pushed back on, about a 1/4 inch gap. Would apoxy bond to glass?
Last edited by 1985CamaroSport; Feb 14, 2018 at 07:09 PM.
Hate to bring this back from the dead, but a good epoxy to use would be JB Weld clear, I just did mine today after seeing a post by another member who used it. Was easy to use and just had 2 paint sticks taped together to push and hold the metal to the glass until it cured.
Bringing this back from the dead, my JB weld epoxy gave up the ghost at some point last year and now I am trying some leftover 3M windshield urethane to see how that works.
Before applying I cleaned up the area as best I could before applying the urethane by hand into the gap, I will let it set up for a day or so with the metal frame wedged in place by paint stirring sticks.
Bringing this back from the dead, my JB weld epoxy gave up the ghost at some point last year and now I am trying some leftover 3M windshield urethane to see how that works.
Before applying I cleaned up the area as best I could before applying the urethane by hand into the gap, I will let it set up for a day or so with the metal frame wedged in place by paint stirring sticks.
It was messy to say the least and is not exactly pretty but if it stays put will be worth it, when I get the car back from the alignment Friday I will take a pic. I cleaned up a little of the excess but the only way I could get it inside the trim was to push it in with a small popsicle stick or Q tips. It had to be quick as the urethane sets up pretty quickly, 15-20 minutes IIRC. I then used a paint stick cut in 2 and taped together as my prop against the body to hold it overnight to give the urethane plenty of time to set in position. I may try to trim more excess when I get the car back but don’t want to chance messing with the seal.
I also used this stuff before on the rear hatch deck lid with a manual caulk gun and if I had to do it over I would have used a power one which I do not have, that stuff is so hard to push by hand and extremely messy. It might have been worth a having a good glass shop just do it but I wanted to try.
