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I went through replacing the hinges, moving and re-sealing the deck lid which did not eliminate it. Finally I researched the various pressures of the hatch struts and chose the weakest one off rockauto, AMS4967/ no spoiler and no wiper, which once installed improved the overbite. Those struts don’t shoot the hatch to the moon when opened and can easily hold the hatch up. The only rub on those struts is I had to swap over the plastic bushings where the strut mounts to the deck. Also keep in mind my GTA has the fiberglass spoiler so much lighter.
The replacement struts I had before were strong arm brand for spoiler( we’re very strong and could lift hatch without help) and it was a noticeable over bite and now it’s almost gone. If when I resealed the deck and followed the FSM to the letter and pushed the deck in slightly more than perfectly flush( which I did not) it would be perfect I think. So as it sits now is close enough for me and my OCD ( it’s a third gen too so these cars panel gaps were never laser perfect lol)
The one thing I’ve taken away from this is your on the right track by checking the body to glass gaps etc. because each car is different…some the hinges might be bad, others the urethane on the hatch might have gotten loose/deteriorated, or the aftermarket hatch struts are too strong.
Interestingly I ordered the AMS 4967 struts and they shoot my hatch to the moon, I can't open it with the button because it will slam upward 90 formula with fiberglass spoiler.
Interestingly I ordered the AMS 4967 struts and they shoot my hatch to the moon, I can't open it with the button because it will slam upward 90 formula with fiberglass spoiler.
Wow I have the fiberglass aerowing and it works great with those struts, so weird.
Abucaca, that is not nearly as much overhang, those struts might cure what ails you. Good way to test is disconnect the struts and gently shut the hatch and see if the alignment improves…that is what led me to lower power struts. Just be careful lowering and opening it with the weight of the hatch, you don’t want to bust the pull down mechanism. If your hatch is better aligned you know the struts have too much power.
Install a couple shims under your existing hinges: as many as you can before the top/center of the hatch are higher than the roofline,....... done. One of the hatch adjustment points is at the hinges. GM used spacers of various thicknesses at the factory.
I had a overhang on the last car ( 88 GTA - <80K original miles ) I rebuild - like pretty much EVERY Thirdgen I've ever owned - then I installed a couple additional spacers and the overhang was gone. When the hinge area is raised the overhang end of the hatch can only move one way,..... towards the front of the car.
Before:
After:
For additional info / confirmation about hatch hinge spacers; info can be found in the BODY section of the service manual
Originally Posted by Abubaca
I may just let the overhang stay, assuming it can't be fixed by repositioning the glass/decklid or the body side hinge placement.
So I just went out to the garage and looked it over.
For what it's worth, both hinges have SOME sort of spacer.
Driver side has a bend consistent to the pictures shown here, and is has about an 1/8" of overhang.
Passenger side is about as flat as I can make out, yet overhangs a heavy 1/4", though all gaps seem consistent, at least without measuring.
There are signs suggesting the decklid has backed off the glass a little, but nothing conclusive. Might just be the power of suggestion.
Gonna try the spacers, removing the struts, and some slight adjustment on the body side of the hinges and see where that gets me.
I went through replacing the hinges, moving and re-sealing the deck lid which did not eliminate it. Finally I researched the various pressures of the hatch struts and chose the weakest one off rockauto, AMS4967/ no spoiler and no wiper, which once installed improved the overbite. Those struts don’t shoot the hatch to the moon when opened and can easily hold the hatch up. The only rub on those struts is I had to swap over the plastic bushings where the strut mounts to the deck. Also keep in mind my GTA has the fiberglass spoiler so much lighter.
The replacement struts I had before were strong arm brand for spoiler( we’re very strong and could lift hatch without help) and it was a noticeable over bite and now it’s almost gone. If when I resealed the deck and followed the FSM to the letter and pushed the deck in slightly more than perfectly flush( which I did not) it would be perfect I think. So as it sits now is close enough for me and my OCD ( it’s a third gen too so these cars panel gaps were never laser perfect lol)
The one thing I’ve taken away from this is your on the right track by checking the body to glass gaps etc. because each car is different…some the hinges might be bad, others the urethane on the hatch might have gotten loose/deteriorated, or the aftermarket hatch struts are too strong.
what hinges / through the glass bolts did you use?
Well I finally got the hatch glass replaced on my 1990 GTA. It's "new" (never installed) aftermarket glass. The protrusion of the rear deck is back but the upper part of the glass seems properly close to the roof line. Maybe the lower four holes in the glass, or even the upper four, are a few millimeters too far down. Who know? I just hope it doesn't shatter again! The bigger problem is increasing shaking in my left leg (lumbar damage from my career) which is making it hard, if not dangerous, to drive a clutch. This GTA (1990) is just 1 of 78 built with a 5 spd. Might have to let it go, look for another Gen III w/an auto transmission (egad!).
Well I finally got the hatch glass replaced on my 1990 GTA. It's "new" (never installed) aftermarket glass. The protrusion of the rear deck is back but the upper part of the glass seems properly close to the roof line. Maybe the lower four holes in the glass, or even the upper four, are a few millimeters too far down. Who know? I just hope it doesn't shatter again! The bigger problem is increasing shaking in my left leg (lumbar damage from my career) which is making it hard, if not dangerous, to drive a clutch. This GTA (1990) is just 1 of 78 built with a 5 spd. Might have to let it go, look for another Gen III w/an auto transmission (egad!).
Hopefully your new glass holds up! sorry to hear about your back - ever tried an inversion table? I used one every day after herniating a disc and I firmly believe it saved me, I am back to 100%. Your GTA sounds like a desirable setup! got any pics? :P
I have some medical term for L5 S1 not being in alignment. 21 yrs of wearing a heavy gunbelt. I think its permanent and increasing nerve damage. Sigh. Maybe there's such a thing as a hyrdraulic-assist clutch that would be much lighter??
I have some medical term for L5 S1 not being in alignment. 21 yrs of wearing a heavy gunbelt. I think its permanent and increasing nerve damage. Sigh. Maybe there's such a thing as a hyrdraulic-assist clutch that would be much lighter??
Ahh sorry to hear that, maybe you can get a custom hand clutch? or just LS swap it to auto looks like a nice original rare bird though, love the black GTA's.
Easy to swap to auto....but I couldn't do that to such a rare car. 1 of just 78 built in 1990. I love the car, a joy to drive!!! I'm still partial to the sapphire black (dark blue) on silver that my 1986 had, but the solid black looks awesome too!!!
Easy to swap to auto....but I couldn't do that to such a rare car. 1 of just 78 built in 1990. I love the car, a joy to drive!!! I'm still partial to the sapphire black (dark blue) on silver that my 1986 had, but the solid black looks awesome too!!!
1 / 78 true.... BUT i think it'll matter who buys it too...if they buy it just to trash it then you might as well keep it and make it an auto....maybe keep the parts for the future if you decide to sell it.
There are some rare firebirds that were for sale here... some army guys bought them and unfortunately some drove them hard and abandon them on base when they move so they just get scrapped
\
Very true. I was selected to purchase this GTA because of my love for the Gen IIIs and being a Navy veteran like its prior owner. I might look at a different clutch, maybe something with hydraulic assist or something. Of all things I'm probably going to list my Jeep soon. Just waiting on a stupid AC control module so there is no vac leak and the blend doors work right. Aftermarket $50 units leak right out of the box. It won't tow my boat, well, the boat I had until I sold it last Oct (hoping to get another newer one) and I put a 3.5" lift with 33 tires on it. Now with my back I'm barely able to get up into the darn thing. This getting old thing is for the birds!
Very true. I was selected to purchase this GTA because of my love for the Gen IIIs and being a Navy veteran like its prior owner. I might look at a different clutch, maybe something with hydraulic assist or something. Of all things I'm probably going to list my Jeep soon. Just waiting on a stupid AC control module so there is no vac leak and the blend doors work right. Aftermarket $50 units leak right out of the box. It won't tow my boat, well, the boat I had until I sold it last Oct (hoping to get another newer one) and I put a 3.5" lift with 33 tires on it. Now with my back I'm barely able to get up into the darn thing. This getting old thing is for the birds!
IMO I say drive it til lyou feel you can;t and then do a auto or that LS / auto swap.
Originality is nice...maybe for SUPER rare cars llike the turbo cars etc.... but "regular" rare cars....I think the main purpose f these or any is to enjoy them rare or not and thats the most important thing!
Theres a convertible that was a V6... it was MINT... it got sold... and i see it on base when I deliver UBER.... I see it everytime and it is now so trashed.... it makes me sad and there is no way to buy or even salvage some of the parts...its already been marked for towing / trashing as its been abandoned.
My Formula is original / low miles and i kept it "in a bubble" since like 2008..... but I bit the bullet and started to mod it to how i like it... So I dropped in LS1 fans, serp conversion, 89??? Intake, trans cooler, auxillary fan, wonder bar etc.... In fact, i have some Hella H$ conversion bulbs and LEDs arriving today so im gonna try put those in.and see if they fit
I recall years ago reading that the hatch pull down motor was made to reduce / eliminate slamming the hatch down which was bad for it.
That would make sense. My 86 had the hatch pull down motor. I think the 85's did too but not sure about 82-84. Definitely a problem and with no after market company making the glass anymore there is going to be a lot of problems for people who have this happen!
That would make sense. My 86 had the hatch pull down motor. I think the 85's did too but not sure about 82-84. Definitely a problem and with no after market company making the glass anymore there is going to be a lot of problems for people who have this happen!
82-84 had a manual latch that you needed to close like a normal trunk.. I mean, you can just lower it and "tap it shut" but eople just slam it especially when the gas struts go bad lol ugh
I think the value of the car is 1 of 78 GTAs built that year with a 5 spd. Swapping to an auto would make it just another car. Decisions decisions.
Thus is true! Maybe you'll find someone who will appreciate it??....but i also wouldn't want to let it go lol
Side note..... I recently removed the stock nibges from my glass..... the nuts on the bolts that go through the glass kept spinning and i had to hold the top cap with a pliers / wrench...thing.. .
I have never been so close to messing my pants!! holy moly that was neve shaking!!!!!!!!
At least you got the project done! Yea, it's a decision. But my body is betraying me!!!! Ugh.
I took them off cause they were getting ugly and rusty lol This was on the spare glass i found... the one ON the car im painting is worse!! lol I gotta try bring the glass inside though... its in the yard haha ughhh
I know the feeling al l too well...I have a pretty original 87 TPI 305 Formula (the one in the pics)...not rare.. but its pretty nice.. .I didn;t want to touch it but with time I did a couple things like LS1 fans (from single fan) LED headlights but the bulbs that look nice / stock, P/S cooler, trans cooler, extra fan, serp belt conversion (BEST DECISION EVER), TA lights.... soon maybe GTA rims too.
Its a tough one, but safety / being able to drive it is important too.... 3
You could consider mods as tasteful mods to get it to where you can drive it? You can keep al lthe parts to oso it can be swapped back in the future.. but THEN also you end up like me with a bunch of stuff sitting around lol. Do I really need to keep the stock single fan, or the TPI dual fans I found / used for a bit?.... yes lol
But I have to admit keeping all that crap takes up a loooot of space........... a tansmission wil ltake up lots of space... .I got one in the garage....
Space is something I don't have. Single car garage with the back 5 ft or so is actually a separate laundry room. I have literally 2 inches front and back to spare w/the garage door closed!
Space is something I don't have. Single car garage with the back 5 ft or so is actually a separate laundry room. I have literally 2 inches front and back to spare w/the garage door closed!
For me.... the top of the washer / dryer would be nice storage! LOL jk jk
but for most others yeah... not a good thing to have crowded with stuff / taking up space lol
You could just drive it as is till its no longer enjoyable / undriveable for you and then sell it and look for something with an auto.
these cars are getting much harder to find these days tough.... might want to keep that in mind too!!
At least you got the project done! Yea, it's a decision. But my body is betraying me!!!! Ugh.
I feel ya sir. If I may share a quick experience of mine, in 1996, I had a left knee reconstruction and at the time I had a low mile 1993 Mustang 5.0 5-speed. I made the decision to sell it because I thought my clutch pedal days were over, especially the non-hydraulic clutch pedals on Mustangs were killers. I came to regret it for a long time as the value of those cars skyrocketed. I have a 5-speed TA now and have no issues thanks to hydraulics but I still understand your concerns.
I agree with you the value is in the rarity and hopefully, you can find a good home for your GTA.
I feel ya sir. If I may share a quick experience of mine, in 1996, I had a left knee reconstruction and at the time I had a low mile 1993 Mustang 5.0 5-speed. I made the decision to sell it because I thought my clutch pedal days were over, especially the non-hydraulic clutch pedals on Mustangs were killers. I came to regret it for a long time as the value of those cars skyrocketed. I have a 5-speed TA now and have no issues thanks to hydraulics but I still understand your concerns.
I agree with you the value is in the rarity and hopefully, you can find a good home for your GTA.
Thank you for your insight. Yes, it stinks having medical issues. The clutch on these Birds is long throw and extremely heavy. I got caught in Long Beach to LA rush hour on a Friday in 1986 and even at age 21, sprained and strained my ankle working the clutch for hours.
I've asked around to see if there's a hydraulic (perhaps stock is hyraulic, I'm not a mechanic) clutch for my car but so far nothing has turned up. If I could reduce the clutch pressure by 50% I think I could keep driving safely for a long time. If you scroll up on this thread there are some pics of my 1990 GTA.
Thus is true! Maybe you'll find someone who will appreciate it??....but i also wouldn't want to let it go lol
Side note..... I recently removed the stock nibges from my glass..... the nuts on the bolts that go through the glass kept spinning and i had to hold the top cap with a pliers / wrench...thing.. .
I have never been so close to messing my pants!! holy moly that was neve shaking!!!!!!!!
I removed the parts car I had and I had to hold the rusted bolts with with pressure pliers. 2 were easy , one was ok but one was a PITA.
I removed the parts car I had and I had to hold the rusted bolts with with pressure pliers. 2 were easy , one was ok but one was a PITA.
Yeah, i did that too.. On one of mines though the top plastic or trim on top the I guess nolt?? ?came off so theres not much to grab,,,, ugh... its scary lol I close my eyes and just pray i don;t hear that "pop:"
Thank you for your insight. Yes, it stinks having medical issues. The clutch on these Birds is long throw and extremely heavy. I got caught in Long Beach to LA rush hour on a Friday in 1986 and even at age 21, sprained and strained my ankle working the clutch for hours.
I've asked around to see if there's a hydraulic (perhaps stock is hyraulic, I'm not a mechanic) clutch for my car but so far nothing has turned up. If I could reduce the clutch pressure by 50% I think I could keep driving safely for a long time. If you scroll up on this thread there are some pics of my 1990 GTA.
Is it possible to swap in a newer style trans? Im not a manual expert etc.. though. But itd be more less all original AND still manual yet useable? if you leave the stock shifter etc... I doubt most people or any could tell.
So, there is no solution actually?
I’ve been dealing with the same hatch glass breaks on mine and it’s frustrating not having a clear fix. Some folks say it’s stress cracks from poor fitment or bad weather shifts, but nothing definitive.
I ended up looking into replacement options and checked Safelite Autoglass reviews. A bunch of people say they’ve had good experiences with their glass replacements and proper sealing, which might help prevent repeats if it is a fit/seal issue. Still hoping someone here has a real workaround though!
So, there is no solution actually?
I’ve been dealing with the same hatch glass breaks on mine and it’s frustrating not having a clear fix. Some folks say it’s stress cracks from poor fitment or bad weather shifts, but nothing definitive.
I ended up looking into replacement options and checked Safelite Autoglass reviews. A bunch of people say they’ve had good experiences with their glass replacements and proper sealing, which might help prevent repeats if it is a fit/seal issue. Still hoping someone here has a real workaround though!
90 formula with fiberglass spoiler. 
looks like a nice original rare bird though, love the black GTA's.
