I'm really into getting the IROC ready for paint. I removed the door weatherstripping and glue, mirrors, front emblem, rocker emblems, rear bumper emblems, front side lights, antenna bezel, spoiler, ground effects along the door. I removed the tail lights and cleaned all around them. Should I remove the lock cylinders on the doors and hatch? Door handles? Should I remove the headlights? I verified that I could remove all the screws, none are frozen. I am leery to remove the front and rear ground effects. I have to drive it to whomever will paint it. I haven't messed with the hatch weatherstripping. Is it standard for painters to remove the hatch to paint that area?
Should I remove the lock cylinders on the doors and hatch? Door handles? Should I remove the headlights? I verified that I could remove all the screws, none are frozen. I am leery to remove the front and rear ground effects. I have to drive it to whomever will paint it. I haven't messed with the hatch weatherstripping. Is it standard for painters to remove the hatch to paint that area?[/QUOTE]
You should remove all that, allcthe weatherstrip, door glass wipers, bumper (covers) (urethane); should be removed and painted separately since an additive has to be used.......
Take it all off and put the car on a trailer to the body shop.
This is what my car looked like in paint. If you want a good job, it's got to come a part. Everything came off. All glass,parts -everything. You may as well do door seals/hinges and all the other little stuff while it's off.
I prepared my 1972 Buick GS for paint. If it was not welded onto the car it was removed - interior & exterior. Car was stripped including vinyl roof. I even removed the rallye wheels & installed old wheels & tires
I'm really into getting the IROC ready for paint. I removed the door weatherstripping and glue, mirrors, front emblem, rocker emblems, rear bumper emblems, front side lights, antenna bezel, spoiler, ground effects along the door. I removed the tail lights and cleaned all around them. Should I remove the lock cylinders on the doors and hatch? Door handles? Should I remove the headlights? I verified that I could remove all the screws, none are frozen. I am leery to remove the front and rear ground effects. I have to drive it to whomever will paint it. I haven't messed with the hatch weatherstripping. Is it standard for painters to remove the hatch to paint that area?
Whoever repainted my kids IROC did something similar to this. I would very much recommend doing it the right way. Honestly, I'd almost rather they left it alone and it still had the desert baked original paint.
Should I remove the lock cylinders on the doors and hatch? Door handles? Should I remove the headlights? I verified that I could remove all the screws, none are frozen. I am leery to remove the front and rear ground effects. I have to drive it to whomever will paint it. I haven't messed with the hatch weatherstripping. Is it standard for painters to remove the hatch to paint that area?
The more you take off, the better the final product. High end, show quality paint job should have all of the body panels and glass removed. If you're just doing a driver quality repaint of the same color, then you can leave the doors, fenders, hood, hatch, windshield on. Bumpers and ground effects should all come off still. All trim, lights, bodyside moldings, windshield rubber trim, mirrors, black rubber trim on top of doors. And yes, door handles and lock cylinders should come out. The goal is to avoid visible tape lines. They look terrible and they are prone to chip/peel later on.
The more you take off, the better the final product. High end, show quality paint job should have all of the body panels and glass removed. If you're just doing a driver quality repaint of the same color, then you can leave the doors, fenders, hood, hatch, windshield on. Bumpers and ground effects should all come off still. All trim, lights, bodyside moldings, windshield rubber trim, mirrors, black rubber trim on top of doors. And yes, door handles and lock cylinders should come out. The goal is to avoid visible tape lines. They look terrible and they are prone to chip/peel later on.
Looks like Im going the driver quality repaint. I just want a decent looking car. I have removed everything you suggested except the hatch weatherstripping and hatch lock cylinder. Tail lights held in with one nut, removed headlights and scraped away all the weatherstripping glue. I think Im ready.
Looks like Im going the driver quality repaint. I just want a decent looking car. I have removed everything you suggested except the hatch weatherstripping and hatch lock cylinder. Tail lights held in with one nut, removed headlights and scraped away all the weatherstripping glue. I think Im ready.
Hatch lock cylinder is fine to stay in place. Hatch and hatch weatherstripping can stay, it just won't have as nice of a paint finish in the cavity between the roof/quarters and the hatch. OK though for a driver.
"Should I remove the lock cylinders on the doors and hatch? Door handles? Should I remove the headlights? "
It all depends what you want to do. You can leave all that and have to tape off / have paint lines. if you're ok with that then that's fine.
Id personally remove al that stuff though.... I removed my rear and font impacts to sand and get a little surface off but i believe that's prolly too extreme.
Those are all pretty simple to remove honestly... its just a bit time consuming to remove and replace / align etc... but its up to you.
"I removed the door weatherstripping and glue, mirrors, front emblem, rocker emblems, rear bumper emblems, front side lights, antenna bezel, spoiler, ground effects along the door"
IMHO if you went the extra mile to remove all that / weatherstripping etc etc... then I don't see why you wouldn't remove the other things as well.
"Should I remove the lock cylinders on the doors and hatch? Door handles? Should I remove the headlights? "
It all depends what you want to do. You can leave all that and have to tape off / have paint lines. if you're ok with that then that's fine.
Id personally remove al that stuff though.... I removed my rear and font impacts to sand and get a little surface off but i believe that's prolly too extreme.
Those are all pretty simple to remove honestly... its just a bit time consuming to remove and replace / align etc... but its up to you.
"I removed the door weatherstripping and glue, mirrors, front emblem, rocker emblems, rear bumper emblems, front side lights, antenna bezel, spoiler, ground effects along the door"
IMHO if you went the extra mile to remove all that / weatherstripping etc etc... then I don't see why you wouldn't remove the other things as well.
Looks like decisions were made for me by the body shop guys. They told me I should remove the front and rear bumpers plus the hatch and hood. Not sure if the doors are coming off to do the full jams but that might happen. I was surprised that I took it over for an estimate and the next day its being worked on. I lucked out when he said they were a bit slow right now.
It was a lot more then what I was expecting but the quote they gave me was spot on. Since all the existing paint had to be removed and a lot of dings needed repair the labor hours added up. Luckily there was no no cancer that had to be repaired. With the labor hours and supplies, the final price was over $14K. A little high but the final product was excellent.
I got my car painted last year. It was red and now is black. It was stripped down to metal and fully disassembled. It was 22k. This was w all new glass, rubber/trim/hinges, painted body bolts etc.
it was more than I was expecting to pay initially but in the end it was a fair price. It was a ton of work. It was a 4 month project.
the OPs car looks like it came out great. 14k is a reasonable price for quality work. I'm well aware it's a lot of money. But a good paint job is expensive. The people w these skills are worth the money!
Thanks for the price quotes. $22k is kind of high, but I hope I can do it for much less, even less than $14k, by stripping all the parts down myself and sanding the old paint off. My fenders and door skins will be GM black primer coat since they are NOS sheetmetal. I’m stripping down the gfx and bumpers down to bare urethane or maybe just get them soda blasted. That leaves only the rear 1/4 panels, targa roof band, A-pillar surround (car has T-tops) and the hood with the old paint. The aero spoiler is unpainted aftermarket fiberglass still in storage.
I hate to get into the mindset that you have to spend 10’s of thousands of dollars for a good paint job. Some people spend a lot and can get crappy results. Some people spend less and can get good results. I guess it depends on the shop and the people who work there, Of course, I realize you’re never going to get a factory quality paint job for under $5k unless you know someone or do it yourself. I’m hoping for $7-8k, but no more than $10k when I’m ready to do it. If not, maybe I buy a big inflatable spray booth and use my turbine sprayer and take a crack at it myself. Doesn’t seem that hard except for panel blocking. Black is very unforgiving in that regard.
I believe there is/was a member on here who painted his Firebird that way (used an inflatable spray booth) and it turned out great. It really looked impressive in the pics. As long as I use good materials and take my time, I should be good. However, a body shop doing the work would be good too so long as it’s not ridiculously expensive.
I did spend a lot and I am very satisfied with the results. I need to take it back for some nibs to be taken care of but thats minor. Here's the final product
