Are the door hinges adjustable at all? I recently looked at a Formula and I noticed that the passenger side door was a little difficult to open. I did the old "try to lift the door at the open end" but it did not seem like the bushings were worn out. I also looked at the striker and sill and it didn't seem like there was wear on either one. So I'm a little perplexed as why the door was catching. The car was parked on an uneven gravel driveway so I chalked it up to that in the moment, but I did note that the driver side door didn't have any problems opening.

Of course my ultimate concern is some unknown body work had been done in the past. I spent a fair bit of time crawling around underneath the car and I didn't see anything that screamed previous body work. However My main focus underneath was looking for rust.

In short, is it unheard of that a door would go out of adjustment? Or is there potentially some bigger issue? Car supposedly has 44k miles on it.

 

The hinges are welded to the door. There's certain holes on the body and hinge body side that will need drilled out to make it a little adjustable.
There's also a tool that will clip to striker and door latch (while door is open) so you can bend the door up or down to line things up better.

 

Thanks. Unfortunately I didn't take note of how the door was lined up when closed to clue me in further. Is the latching mech on the door itself adjustable?

 

There is a little bit of adjustment by loosening the bolts where the hinge attaches to the body. That may be enough to get the door to line up. The striker in the jamb is also adjustable by loosening it and sliding it up/down/in/out. Before adjusting anything, look at the bottom door gap with the door closed and see if it's even or not. That will tell you what needs to move.

 

I like to close the door to the point just before the latch starts to engage the striker so that the striker is not "lifting up" on or affecting the position of the door....then look at the door lines relative to the body to determine it's alignment. I'd use:
Top of door to body in the front and rear
waist line
bottom of door to rocker like TransamGTA350 said.
If the door is true, adjust the striker by loosening it, move it to line up w/the latch, tighten, test.
If it's obvious that the door is off I start by adjusting the door by loosening the hinge bolts to the door post, moving the door to slightly above where I want it to be, tighten the bolts back up.

I've had some cars (my wifes POL-sha, for example) where the door/hinges are not adjustable at all, and for those, when the hinge pins/bushings are still good but the door is sagging, I've simply opened the door slightly so it's just off the striker, put some cribbing on a floor jack, jack it up and "tweak" the door hinges/post just enough to get it lined up perfectly....or maybe just a little bit above perfect to allow for a bit of future sag. Works great.

 

Great suggestions here, thanks all! A

 

The doors on these cars are considered structural. Thats why the hinges are not adjustable. Their heavyness offer structural support when closed. Point is, if you enlarge the hinge holes the doors will move around, allowing more body flex.
Adjustment should be done at the latch/striker side as outlined above.

 

Agree, start with the least invasive method first, as always!