Bodywork Help to my camaro
Bodywork Help to my camaro
i have a 86 camaro that needs bodywork and i need some advice doing it like is putting bondo on easy? and the sanding part? i know it sounds stupid but i need help!!!!! Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 2
From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
bondo is easy but please dont go that route. it will still rust under the bondo. it is porous stuff and traps moisture. it will still rust. when u think u have the body all straight take some black spray paint and a block of wood with some fine/rough sandpaper and do what they call tiger striping. sand until it is almost gone and anywhere where the paint is still showing is not straight with the rest of the body. hope this helps. please correct me if i am wrong someone cuz i am no expert at body work by anymeans.
Not a body expert, but I know a little (I'll soon be trying to straighten my own POS into a head turner). You have to beat the panel back into shape, as close as possible, but do NOT go higher than the rest of the body. Bondo can only fill low spots. Get the metal as close to perfect as possible, then skimm the surface with filler in layers. Sand and shape, spray on some sealer, prime it, paint it, clear it, and done! Make sure to get rid of rust before any of this, and it's better to pull dents (make them pop back into shape) than hammer them out...
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 0
From: Cove, Arkansas
Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
I have a good question. Is it better to put a coat of paint on the car before you do your bondo work? I did it that way cause the previous bondo by the previous owner had rusted through cause they did the bondo over bare metal.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 2
From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
i know for a fact that bondo will rust through, well not rust through so u can see it but it will rust underneath. it does trap moisture. my uncle works for a body shop and told me to stay away from the stuff but he helped me anyway on my elcamino since i had no money for new fenders. well it did rust through a little bit but i got a lot of money from graduation so i bought two new fenders and saw the damage done under the bondo. it would have eaten through the metal and i would never have known. but yeah it will still rust underneath
The key is to get rid of "ALL" the rust before u bondo it... If u leave the slightest bit of rust, yes it will spread and rust underneath, because yes, it does hold moisture... But, if u get rid of "ALL" the rust, it will not rust underneath whutsoever... Most people think they can grind down the rust and sand it, than fill it in with bondo, sand again til smooth, primer, and paint... NO! There is still rust particles! Therefore it will rust in time.... Ive seen many cars come out of bodyshops looking amazing! Body done with a mint paint job, a month later, it starts bubbling everywhere because the body man didnt know how to use bondo....
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 735
Likes: 2
From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Only the most expensive body artisans can work without bondo and 99% of us "common folk" couldn't afford them. It is proper to put your bondo on bare metal. The sequence would actually be:
1. Level bare metal as best as possible.
2. Body filler.
3. Glazing Putty or Putty Coat.
4. Primer.
5. Sealer.
6. Basecoat (2)
7. Clearcoat (2/3)
8. Color Sand
9. Buff with compound.
10. Buff with finish glaze.
11. Wash and thin wax.
1. Level bare metal as best as possible.
2. Body filler.
3. Glazing Putty or Putty Coat.
4. Primer.
5. Sealer.
6. Basecoat (2)
7. Clearcoat (2/3)
8. Color Sand
9. Buff with compound.
10. Buff with finish glaze.
11. Wash and thin wax.
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