What is everybody running for brake upgrades?
#1
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What is everybody running for brake upgrades?
I'm getting ready to upgrade my brakes just wonderin what everybody is running. I did a search for this and didn't find much and plus I thought it would be fun to see what everybody's using.
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt
Converted to 1LE set up all around from factory J65 setup..for the money it is by far the best safety mod I have done to my car to date.
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Just did the 1LE swap on my J65 '88 Iroc. Like onebad said, the best thing I've done yet. You could always go with Baer, but that's a lot more cash. I also rebuilt my suspension at the same time and the overall difference is amazing.
Check out my rebuild page for pics and hints of the install. Click on the first 2 links:
http://photos.yahoo.com/taramiller72
Good luck!
Ed
Check out my rebuild page for pics and hints of the install. Click on the first 2 links:
http://photos.yahoo.com/taramiller72
Good luck!
Ed
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
No and no. I was one of the last guys that I know of to get the caliper brackets and hardware from GM at GMpartsdirect.com. Then I just pieced together the rest of the parts: calipers from autozone, earl's braided lines, new prop valve and used M/C from a board member. It was very easy. I would however recommend doing the Spohn kit. He gives you everything you need in one complete package for a reasonable price, adn you won't have to go out and find things therefore wasting time. I'd also buy AndyZ28's 1LE Plus CD. It will show you exactly how to do the whole upgrade.
I modified my own spindles from a wrecked '91 RS with a milwaukee bandsaw. It's not hard at all really. If you have to drive your car, I'd get some used spindles and get the kit so you won't be without wheels.
Ed
I modified my own spindles from a wrecked '91 RS with a milwaukee bandsaw. It's not hard at all really. If you have to drive your car, I'd get some used spindles and get the kit so you won't be without wheels.
Ed
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Me too, did the same as Ebmiller88. Bought from GMpartsdirect 2 years ago. The only way to get all the parts is thru Spohn now.
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Car: 1984 LG4 Camaro
Engine: 350 Roller Motor
Transmission: Level 10 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.42
Baer Track with drilled rotors (13" rotors) - about $1100 complete. Only fits under 91-92 Z wheels, otherwise must go to 17" wheels.
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Car: 87 T/A
Engine: TPI 350 ci
Transmission: 5 speed
I converted to the 1LE package up front. The kit is from SSBS. I couldn't wait for Steves kit to formulate, (sorry Steve) as I was re-doing my front suspension at the time and it was necessary to complete then.
The rear is a 9bolt with the 12" rotors already.
The rear is a 9bolt with the 12" rotors already.
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Car: 1987 iroc-z custom
Engine: 355 tuned port
Transmission: 5spd baby, only way to go
Axle/Gears: 3.45
i have been doing alot of research on braking for our cars and the thing that i have found is that baer is the best bang for you buck...yes you will pay alot more but they are better!! im getting 16inchers when i get my new rims...
iroc2nv
iroc2nv
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ebmiller88 how much did u spend on the total upgrade on your suspesion and what all did u put on. im lookin to do some suspension mods and i dont really know were to start. thanx for any advice.
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Car: '89 Formula 350
Engine: 5.7L L98 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: 7.5 disc posi 3.23
HeySuperman, if I go crazy can I still call you superman?
It looks like those Baer brakes don't clamp onto the entire rotor?? Also what wheels are those and where did you get them?
It looks like those Baer brakes don't clamp onto the entire rotor?? Also what wheels are those and where did you get them?
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Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
The wheels are ROH Snypers. I got them from www.jdwheels.com , they are great people to deal with and have some damn fast shipping. Only took three days for my wheels to get to me when I ordered them.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by iroc2nv
i have been doing alot of research on braking for our cars and the thing that i have found is that baer is the best bang for you buck...yes you will pay alot more but they are better!! im getting 16inchers when i get my new rims...
iroc2nv
i have been doing alot of research on braking for our cars and the thing that i have found is that baer is the best bang for you buck...yes you will pay alot more but they are better!! im getting 16inchers when i get my new rims...
iroc2nv
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: fivepointsevenleeters
Transmission: nothing right now
Originally posted by paul_huryk
Baer Track with drilled rotors (13" rotors) - about $1100 complete. Only fits under 91-92 Z wheels, otherwise must go to 17" wheels.
Baer Track with drilled rotors (13" rotors) - about $1100 complete. Only fits under 91-92 Z wheels, otherwise must go to 17" wheels.
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Car: 1984 LG4 Camaro
Engine: 350 Roller Motor
Transmission: Level 10 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.42
Originally posted by SSupaNatural
you serious? the track kit clears the rims?! are there any modifications at all? cause I wanted to use 17x9 SSrims/adapters for daily driving and still use my stock 16x8's for the track. Can you post a pic or can anyone confirm this? That would be SO COOL if it was true.
you serious? the track kit clears the rims?! are there any modifications at all? cause I wanted to use 17x9 SSrims/adapters for daily driving and still use my stock 16x8's for the track. Can you post a pic or can anyone confirm this? That would be SO COOL if it was true.
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Car: 87 T/A
Engine: TPI 350 ci
Transmission: 5 speed
The Baer kit requires a core charge for spindles, the SSBS does not. The calipers are all made by PBR.
13" aren't necessary as the pad/caliper doesn't provide that much clamping or 'swept' surface. Notice the picture in Superman's post. All of the rotor is not being used.
Basic 1LE brakes work, no matter where you get them and how much you pay. I just prefer to pay only for what I have to.
13" aren't necessary as the pad/caliper doesn't provide that much clamping or 'swept' surface. Notice the picture in Superman's post. All of the rotor is not being used.
Basic 1LE brakes work, no matter where you get them and how much you pay. I just prefer to pay only for what I have to.
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Car: 89 Formula / 09 G8
Engine: LS1 / LS3
Transmission: M6 / M6
Axle/Gears: 3:42 / 3:27
I run the BAER Track system up front and the 91-92 rear disc setup.
I will never own another thirdgen without these brakes on it.
I will never own another thirdgen without these brakes on it.
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Car: 2003 Porsche C4S
Engine: 3.6L
Transmission: 6-speed Manual
the 13" kits and the 12" kits use the same pads. Basically the larger rotors act like a larger heat sink to dissapate the heat. That is why they are effective.
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Car: '89 Formula 350
Engine: 5.7L L98 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: 7.5 disc posi 3.23
So after all the arguments who has the best but still afordable brake systems?? 1LE Baer Willwood Alcon SSBS
Well!!!!
Hey how bout some prices you guys paid while your at it!
Well!!!!
Hey how bout some prices you guys paid while your at it!
#23
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The 13" brakes do act as a larger heatsink, but their real advantage is that the calipers are clamping further from the center of the spindle-----superior leverage
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
ebmiller88 how much did u spend on the total upgrade on your suspesion and what all did u put on. im lookin to do some suspension mods and i dont really know were to start. thanx for any advice.
Brakes:
GM 1 LE brake brackets/hardware: $330 shipped
EBC brake pads: $150 (Tirerack)
Reman front calipers: $55, (Autozone)
Lines: $85 (Earl's)
Prop valve: $55, (Dal at VanDevere Olds)
Master cyl: $20, used
'89 9 bolt rearend W/PBR brakes, complete: $200
New GM e-brake cables: $50 (Liberty Pontiac/GMC, Charlotte, NC)
Rear caliper rebuild kits/seals: $30
Front susp:
ES bushings: @ $200 - A-arm, sway bar/end links, engine mounts, dust boots, etc. (Summit)
Moog suspension parts: @ $300 - Ball joints, center link, all tie rods
Hotchkis tie rod adjusting sleeves: $50 (Jeg's)
Bearings, seals, misc parts: $50
KYB GR-2 struts, (2): $43 ea, (Tirerack)
New GM coil spring isolators: $20
Rear susp:
BMR LCAs and adj. panhard: $170 shipped, group purchase
ES bushings: @ $60-- tranny mount, torque arm, swaybar, end links, etc. (Summit)
KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, (2) : $29 ea, (Tirerack)
New GM coil spring isolators: $25
POR-15 paint for all suspension parts: $30 (PRO-15.com)
Eibach Pro-Kit springs: $210 shipped
That's a rough guess, but it's right at $2000, give or take a few bucks. I did it all at once so if you have more time you can budget a little better. But I think I did pretty good and I love the results. The car is really fun to drive now.
To think all this started when I couldn't get it aligned!!
Ed
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Car: '89 Formula 350
Engine: 5.7L L98 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: 7.5 disc posi 3.23
KYB GR-2 struts, (2): $43 ea, (Tirerack)
KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, (2) : $29 ea, (Tirerack)
Which KYBs are the ones to avoid?? The gas adjusts or the GR2s. I heard one is way better than the other. Any idea???
KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, (2) : $29 ea, (Tirerack)
Which KYBs are the ones to avoid?? The gas adjusts or the GR2s. I heard one is way better than the other. Any idea???
#27
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Get the GR-2 front struts and the Gas-A-Just rears. Don't get the GR-2 rears.
Ed
Ed
#29
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
87WS6, oh no, no.
The brake system has nothing to do with the A/C. 1LE car just didn't have the A/C drom the factory, that's all.
The 1LE brakes are all that and a box of cookies.
Ed
The brake system has nothing to do with the A/C. 1LE car just didn't have the A/C drom the factory, that's all.
The 1LE brakes are all that and a box of cookies.
Ed
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Car: '89 Formula 350
Engine: 5.7L L98 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: 7.5 disc posi 3.23
Ok, So if I have the PBRs already installed on my 89 does that mean I still have to change prop valve and master cylinder to go to 1LE set up?
Are the auto zone caliper remans any good?
Are the auto zone caliper remans any good?
#31
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
There's 2 threads on this very topic just a bit below this one.
Read those for the info, but you may have to change the prop valve. The M/C you already have is the right one.
Ed
Read those for the info, but you may have to change the prop valve. The M/C you already have is the right one.
Ed
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