ive got a leaking wheel cylinder in the back left and a major leak up front so im going to replace all the break lines threw out the car all the way up to the master cylinder cause i want it to last i will be doing it on a lift so that is not an issue what am i getting my self into? my car right now has to be taken to the lift by trailer cause i literaly dont have any breaks whats so ever.

 

i'd say it's a pretty big job, maybe not so hard if you use braided lines, but a pain in the *** if your having teo bend hard line....but i consider most things a pain in the ***...

 

it will be just like doin fuel lines a 4 hr job at least

 

big pain in the *** job, but not hard to do and on a lift would be a piece of cake

 

yeah ill have help also i wont be alone and il have alot of tools to use 4 hours is not bad to be at all. atleast i will no it will last

 

Good luck with the front lines, they go underneath the motor and along the crossmember. Kind of hard to get to unless the motor's out. The back ones aren't too bad though, fairly easy to get at.

 

.

 

There's a place that has pre-bent lines for resto stuff. I can't remember their name, but they advertise in the back of CHP and the other big car mags. I don't have one handy, but I'll post it up tomorrow.

 

Classic Industries has a front to rear hard line for our cars in both standard and a stainless steel. $50 for the standard - $70 for the SS IIRC. Pre-bent with the right adapters on it - definately worth the money to save the hassle IMO. dunno about the fronts - don't see it on their page

 

.

 

Percy's makes some braided stainless lines. They're kind of pricy, but they'll last a long time and they shorten your stopping distance. You can get them from summit.

 

.

 

Sorry, they're Earl's, not Percy's. P/n is EAR-28A180 for front discs, EAR-28A190 for 4 wheel discs. Buying the bulk line is definitely cheaper, however it will be time consuming making all the bends, but if you have a lift and some help it shouldn't be too bad.

 

http://www.classictube.com also sells them. Biggest "pain" will be the front-to-rear brake line; you'll have to move some brackets and yank the crossmember (I think) to get the line out. I swapped it out when I went to rear discs. (The '84 prop valve I used took the rear line from the "front" of the valve, as opposed to my '86 line which took the rear port from the "bottom" of the valve- so I put a front-to-rear line into my car from an '84 f-body.)

 

You'll also need to flare the ends; 84-up used metric ISO "bubble flares". That basically means a more expensive tool; and you'll need to find the fittings. (I couldn't find them locally; but wound up finding them on pre-flared sections of brake line at Pep Boys. Paid $5 a line to get two fittings.) Look to places like http://www.toolparadise.com or similar for an ISO bubble flaring tool. Eastwoodcompany.com also has one.

 

I just replaced all my lines with the kit from Classic and put on Goodridge Lines to finsih it off.
The lines were next to perfect, just some minor bending to get them exact.
My engine is not in the car so it made the job easier.

 

double flare not bubble

 

no, he was correct - 6mm line with a bubble flare fitting on each end.

You find ISO bubble flares on metric lines
You find double flares on SAE sized lines

I recently went through the nightmare of locating proper brake line for my 1991 Z.

 

you can get a set of already bent lines from www.inlinetube.com... save yourself ALOT of work and they are all stainless steel, factory bent lines...