jsut liek the title states....

ive replaced the:
Rotors
pads
calipers
caliper brake line bolts
Caliper bolts
Inner and Outer Bearings
Dust Cap
Replaced the Rubber lines with Steel Braided (EARLS) lines

Replaced ALL Hardlines with Stainless Steel Hardlines...(inlinetube.com)

Replaced Proportioning Valve (stock replacement)

All new fluid


so i ask you... what the hell is making my car pull to the left???

 

Well, have you checked the front steering linkages for slop or play, how bout bad control arm bushings (toe changing when you hit the brakes)? If you have a auto tech as a friend, see if he has a infared thermometer, check temps on both calipers, they should be even, if not the hotter one is doing more stopping or somehow not releasing Usually the caliper slides are the culprit, but if you used a silicone lube on the "tubes" and o rings and the calipers "float " back and fourth on the pins, it`s not the slides. Shouldn`t be that hard of a problem to fix

 

well said greesemonkey. Just when you think you have looked at it from every angle, someone comes along and shows you something new.

 

Does it only pull when you brake? Have you checked your tires? If you don't have directional tires try swapping the front tires. That may fix the pull. I know it sounds weird, but it's fairly common.

 

When you bled the front calipers, did the fluid flow evenly, or was one side still going slow?
Is the passenger side line routed next to the exhaust pipe anywhere?

 

yea, the passenger side still bleed really really slow....

the driver side bled really fast...

but the pass side bled super slow.. i cant figure that out...

the only thing i havent replaced yet is the master cylinder... should tha tbe next?

 

I`d look at the hard line from the prop valve to the flex line real close, sounds as if were pinched to me, with the fluid traveling slow, the master feeds both front tires from the same port, so no master cylinder. That line goes under the oil pan, could have been pryed aganist or something to restrict the fluid.

 

You may have damaged the line when you installed it.Theres not alot of room to work with.I removed the y pipe from my headers and worked the line in from the back.

 

Yep...agree with the others. Check the hardline. It's either pinched, blocked or restricted in some manner. Double check the flares on the hardline to that wheel...make sure that they are not restricted.

 

the line was fine, it went in really easy with no problems. ill add that before i changed the lines it was still doing this....so i dont think its a problem with the line... it cant be a faulty caliper because ive already brought the caliper back cause i thought it was faulty...

 

You might try removing the banjo bolt from the caliper, and have a helper press the brake pedal (but not to the floor) and see what amount of fluid flows from the end of the flex line. Be sure to protect your eyes and paint while doing this, as the fluid could spray anywhere. This could rule out the hardlines and prop valve.

I'd think the line(s) from the MC to the prop valve should be fine, as one caliper appears to work fine...

 

I think i found out the problem.....

see if this sounds right....


in doing this overhaul i was reattaching the line to the caliper, well i tightend too tight and snapped off the caliper line bolt so i bought a new one... and finished that caliper line (passenger side)

i never replaced teh drivers side caliper line bolt... so im thinking no duh more fluid is flowing through the stock caliper line bolt, theres 15 yrs worth of corrosion there so the opening has to be bigger... im going to replace that bolt soon, will hopefulyl solve this ****e dup problem....

but does that sound about right?

 

Possible.
You can clean out the passageway in the bolt with a piece of stiff wire.
You didn't use pipe tape or thread sealer on those bolts, did you?

 

of course not....

 

Your suspension could cause your car to pull when braking. Hows the alignment? Was only one shock replaced at one point? Anything bent? Worn bushings?

 

did you read all of the thread?


the problem isnt in the suspension. We first noticed a problem in the bleeding sine one side (passenger) bled much slower then the drivers..

a slwer rate in the passenger means the drivers does more work, which would result in a pull to the.....LEFT

winner winner chicken dinner.... heh i amaze myself....



new suspension will be going in soon though, tirods, lca's, panhard rod, steering ETC ball joints and what not... as soon as someone posts em in the classifieds ill be putten them on

 

heres the deal...



ITS FIXED...


i bought a new bolt to replace the drivers side caliper line bolt... and it looked fine... im like ohwell.. i bleed the system , try it out... it still steers to the left... so im like **** IT...

i check the caliper line bolt on the passenger side (the origional one i replaced....)

(in case you didnt know what a caliper line bolt looks liek iots a bolt with a hole in the side and a hoel down the middle so the fluid can get through like so )

and i take the caliper line bolt i bought to repalce the one i broke off at the begining of this entire ordeal....

this is what i see





Murrays sold me a ****ing DEFECTIVE bolt... they never drilled completly through the bolt so no fluid was getting to the other side..... WHAT THE ****....


so cause of this bolt ive bought

new calipers (30 bucks)
Steel Braided Brake lines (70)
Brake Pads (60)
Hardlines(200)
Brake Cylinders (15)

thats right because of a ****ign bolt i wasted 375 bucks......

im going to murrays tomorrow and complaining, im going to write a very detailed letter to the manufacturer, and include all my receipts.....

Thanks for all the help tho guys

 

Glad you found the problem!
Good luck with the complaint...hope they'll cover some, if not all, of your parts expenses.

 

uh....wow! never saw that one coming. Note to self, no bolts from murray:nono:

Glad ya found it enjoy it now!

 

allways look at the bright side of life: Now you have all new brake components in front

 

~UPDATES~


I talked with the manager at Murrays....


She talked with me about my problem and told me what will probably happen. she gave me the manufacturers number and their name is Motor Mite... she said that i need to make a copy of all my receipts (two copies) motor mite will request a copy and murrays will...

Murrays will run the receipt of my origional purchase of the bolt... and will check the dates from that bolt to the other purchases ive made to verify that i bought the bolt before the other things..

then the claims people at motor mite will enstate a full or partial reimbursement but she said since she is the head manager at murrays she will suggest a full re-imbursement cause not only did i miss 2.5 weeks... AND my spring break... i was doing All of this work on my car... in the cold, 20* michigan weather...


im not getting my hopes too up... not untill i get the check in hand... but so far thing slook pretty good....

 

not just upfront... Everything brake related was replaced... the rear pads, shoes, springs, wheel cylinder..


All of the brake lines were replaced... not just the fronts