What do you guys think of the slotted rotors usually listed on ebay?

 

Someone on here who posts a lot had them and they started cracking in about a year for him. From what I've read though it really makes no since unless you just want to bling your brakes and cause a bunch of hassles replacing them.

 

Slotted/drilled rotors are more of an off road item. Theyre not really designed to disipate heat on a daily basis. While the slotted can be usable on the street they have to be designed for the street. Alot of companies just add slots to a standard rotor. Drilled rotors are a definite no no on the street.

 

I was told by my mechanic/racing engine builder that slotted rotors were not really necessary anymore with the advance in materials for making rotors and brakes being much better today. They dissapate heat just fine without slotted ones.

 

Slots were never about heat dissipation, they're to deal with pad gasses.

 

If slotted rotors are hype, then please explain to me why all the Trans Am series roadrace cars as well as the NASCAR guys are running them still today.

http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=1414

 

yep

 

I dont have to explain anything. If you want to waste your money go ahead. It's like any other aftermarket crap you can buy for your car. Most of it is all hype. If it was that important why didnt gm put them on your car as a stock item? We're talking street cars here buddy, not nascar....

 

Race pads are way different then street pads. Race conditions ar way different then street conditions. Plus racers replace parts regularly. How does NASCAR pertain to street driven thirdgens??

 

This reply goes to both Zerstörer and CaptPicardsZ28.

We are not talking about average everyday GM street brakes. We are talking about upgrading from stock pads and rotors to a higher level that is designed for heavy street and light track use. The slots do not pertain to temps on the street, but when you double duty you vehicle and take it "driven" on weekends to go play on a track for a bit, then drive home, you will want a rotor and pads that will suffice. Not a full race combo, not a full street combo. Most carbon metalic pads will glaze at higher temps and the slots will help clean them.

Please don't try and preach to me about race parts- I own and drive many vehicles in many different ranges of performance.Here;s a shot of me on Calif Speedway blasting down the front straight at 150+ about 1 month ago (Blue one in front ). I know about brakes partners.

 

opps, I just don't always know about computers-Here's the shot

 

I think I'm gonna get them. I can't afford a full brake swap nor can I find all the parts for it either so I'll just get the best I can without modifying the whole system. I'll probably get the green stuff pads too. A friend of mine put them on his grand prix and he said he's noticed a difference with them and the same pads.

 

Atleast they look cool.

 

Buy a high quality solid rotor for reliability. If you want cool looks and a lighter rotor, get a drilled rotor.

 

I'm still waiting for the test comparing new slotted/drilled rotors over new solid rotors. From what I've read in the internet and in car mags, all the "I felt a huge improvement!" proclamations from slotted/drilled rotors have always been from people replacing worn out rotors. Of course you're going to notice something when your original rotors are worn down to 5mm. And you replace the pads that are on the wear bars.

Somebody, please, show me some 60-0 braking tests comparing new slotted/drilled rotors against new solid rotors.

Pat
'90 Formula, ESP autocross car, O'Reilly OEM-replacement rotors
'91 Sentra SE-R, ITS roadrace car, Brembo OEM-replacement rotors (solid)
'97 Camaro Z28, adopted F-Stock autocross car, 80K on car and not sure what rotors it has ... maybe OE?

 

Gasses produced by the heat... they also get water and dirt off your brakes too.

 

You wont get a huge gain in brake performance from new rotors. Seriously how many times have you hear someone say that 100 bucks i spent made no difference. Its all about ego. They may think it made a difference but wheres there proof. Its all in their head. Dont waste your money on something that isnt going to improve your car any.

 

hahahahahaha ever hear of an IROC

 

from the baer brake web site


What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?
In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “green pad fade” or “outgassing”. When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, “dynamic surface treatment”, “race ready”, and/or, “pre-burnished”. When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with ‘outgassing’. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit ‘outgassing’, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs.

Crossdrilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential “stress risers” from which cracks can occur. Baer’s rotors are cast with crossdrilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.

Zinc washing is then done to provide a barrier, which resists development of

 

I got those in my GTA. They look cool & work fine, but its only been a month so I guess time will tell.
The reason I bought them was that they were the cheapest 1LE rotors that I could find. & In fact they were so cheap that I was expecting something to be wrong with them, but I was impressed the quality looks awesom, they are balanced, they got sent to me pretty fast and everything went smooth.
So dont expect them to last you to long & you wont be disapointed.