Brake line problem...
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 14
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Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: T-5
Brake line problem...
So today I was driving and the brake line busted. I manage to get home using the e-brake. My mom and I went to AutoZone and got a new one and my dad put it on, and some more brake fluid in it, but the front brakes still don't work. Nothings leaking anymore. The fluid just isn't getting to where it needs to go. Any ideas???
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From: Topeka, Ks
Car: 1988 Formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: 6 speed
You have to bleed all the air out of the lines and the calipers for the brakes to work properly. Theres bleeder screws on the tops of the calipers to bleed the air out.
You always have to do this if you open up the braking system in any way.
You always have to do this if you open up the braking system in any way.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,593
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From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
If the master cylinder ran dry, you'll have to take it off the car and 'bench bleed' it first...then do all 4 wheels.
A search will help you find out haow to bench bleed.
A search will help you find out haow to bench bleed.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,985
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From: Massachusetts
Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
you can bleed the master in the car no need to remove it......where you get that carzy info... just crack the lines like a bleeder and fluid will come out with any air. why go doing extra work.
bench bleeding is easy to do when changing a master but by no mean the only way to do it.
bench bleeding is easy to do when changing a master but by no mean the only way to do it.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 247
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From: Oklahoma
Car: 92 Rally
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
If you let the master cylinder run completely dry you will need to bleed your entire system. No need to remove the master cylinder. I have all the steps listed below and these are the steps directly out of a Haynes Manual.
To bleed the master cylinder bore -
1. Remove the vacuum reserve from the brake power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off
2. Be sure to check brake fluid levels periodically through the bleeding process (don't want more air in your lines)
3. Disconnect the forward brake line from the master cylinder bore until brake fluid begins to flow out, then reconnect the line.
4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal very slowly (one time only) and hold it down.
5. Loosen the forward brake line at the master cylinder to purge the air from the bore, retighten the connection, then have the brake pedal slowly released.
6. Wait 15 seconds (Important)
7. Repeat the sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is removed from the bore.
8. After the forward port has been completely purged of air, bleed the rear port in the same manner.
9. Next you will need to bleed each individual wheel in this order. (Important) Back Right, Back Left, Front Right, Front Left. If you also need instructions on how to bleed each wheel refer to this thread, https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=264045
If you follow this procedure as listed I guarantee you won't have any more air in your lines. I actually did this last weekend, so I know it works well.
To bleed the master cylinder bore -
1. Remove the vacuum reserve from the brake power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off
2. Be sure to check brake fluid levels periodically through the bleeding process (don't want more air in your lines)
3. Disconnect the forward brake line from the master cylinder bore until brake fluid begins to flow out, then reconnect the line.
4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal very slowly (one time only) and hold it down.
5. Loosen the forward brake line at the master cylinder to purge the air from the bore, retighten the connection, then have the brake pedal slowly released.
6. Wait 15 seconds (Important)
7. Repeat the sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is removed from the bore.
8. After the forward port has been completely purged of air, bleed the rear port in the same manner.
9. Next you will need to bleed each individual wheel in this order. (Important) Back Right, Back Left, Front Right, Front Left. If you also need instructions on how to bleed each wheel refer to this thread, https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=264045
If you follow this procedure as listed I guarantee you won't have any more air in your lines. I actually did this last weekend, so I know it works well.
Last edited by USA_Rally; Oct 22, 2004 at 02:13 PM.
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