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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 05:57 PM
  #1  
George's Avatar
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From: Stouffville, Ontario
Car: 83WS6TA
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: TH350C
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Spindle Modifications

For the front brake conversions that need a bracket added to the spindle - has anyone done these w/out removing the spindles from the car??
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 06:30 PM
  #2  
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I know some guys but I do them removed. The thing is that you really need to drill the holes in very straight for proper thread engagement after you tap them.

Ed
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 05:33 PM
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From: Munford, TN
Car: 89 z
Engine: Chevy 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.73
I did mine with the spindles still attached and it was very easy. The trick is to drill the holes by sneaking up to the final size. By using the smallest drill bit that will actually remove any material the drill bit will self align itself in the hole and its almost impossible to drill it off center or at an angle. Worked for me.
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 08:03 PM
  #4  
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From: Stouffville, Ontario
Car: 83WS6TA
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: TH350C
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Originally posted by Norwood
By using the smallest drill bit that will actually remove any material the drill bit will self align itself in the hole and its almost impossible to drill it off center or at an angle. Worked for me.
Good point.

I saw one where the guy just drilled the lower hole right through and used a bolt with a nut on the other side because it would be stronger than the tapped threads. Easier to safety wire it that way too.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 12:47 AM
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
That's actually not a bad idea at all. Would there be any downsides to just drilling through and using a nut on the back side? Maybe a possibility of being a bit off-set from where it needs to be?
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 08:30 AM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Originally posted by DuronClocker
That's actually not a bad idea at all. Would there be any downsides to just drilling through and using a nut on the back side? Maybe a possibility of being a bit off-set from where it needs to be?
I've thought about doing it this way but I like the idea of having the bolt threaded into the spindle as well just to have more thread engagement. You can do it but I like the tapped spindle with the bolt on the back idea. Overkill maybe, a dab of Locktite does the same thing.

Ed
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 09:27 AM
  #7  
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1992 Z/28, 2000 SS, 1968 RS/SS
Engine: 355 Built a bit / LS1
Transmission: T-5 / A4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 / 2/73's
Ed,

You dont happen to sell the LS1 Spindle / kit

do you?

If so pm Me about it! Im intersted.

-steve
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 09:44 AM
  #8  
cam-'s Avatar
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From: In the Garage
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I like the "seaking up" approach too if you are gonna drill them on the car. Makes perfect common sense. Nice tip Norwood Nice new bits might be a worthy investment also.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 02:05 PM
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Originally posted by Purple 92 SS
Ed,

You dont happen to sell the LS1 Spindle / kit

do you?

If so pm Me about it! Im intersted.

-steve
Of course he does! I've been talking to him about a C4HD setup.
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