Keep Stock Combination Valve?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
Keep Stock Combination Valve?
OK...I've done a stupid amount of searching (but I LOVE it!) on installing a proportioning valve. It looks pretty straightforward, but I was mainly trying to find the fittings I would need. I think I have everything covered now excpet for this:
Is it a better idea to drop the stock combination valve and simply run the Wilwood PV as seen here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/propvalve.shtml
or should I retain the comination valve and place the PV after it? I've seen a lot of discussion back and forth on the many ways/places/etc that the proportioning valve can be installed, but no one yet that I've seen has commented whether it is WISE to remove the stock CV. I know I'd have a brake light on the dash cluster that I'd have to hot wire or disable, but aside from that....what do you guys think?
Is it a better idea to drop the stock combination valve and simply run the Wilwood PV as seen here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/propvalve.shtml
or should I retain the comination valve and place the PV after it? I've seen a lot of discussion back and forth on the many ways/places/etc that the proportioning valve can be installed, but no one yet that I've seen has commented whether it is WISE to remove the stock CV. I know I'd have a brake light on the dash cluster that I'd have to hot wire or disable, but aside from that....what do you guys think?
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Actually I don't think you'd have a brake light at all. That light only goes on when that switch is grounded (which happens when the pressure difference is enough to flip the switch).
From what I've read, it seems wise to keep the stock valve in there, but gut it. Remove the bolt in the front and take hte spring and plunger out and put the bolt back in. Then put the adjustable after that in the line. I was going to just strap it on the side of the combination valve and change the fittings to fit into the adjustable one and bypass the stock one (for the rear brakes anyways, leave it in for the fronts). Haven't decided. I remember something about the stock combination valve providing some sort of a tiny delay to keep the rears from locking up first or to keep the car somewhat even in terms of initial bite. I'm sure the other Dean will chime in with more info on this
From what I've read, it seems wise to keep the stock valve in there, but gut it. Remove the bolt in the front and take hte spring and plunger out and put the bolt back in. Then put the adjustable after that in the line. I was going to just strap it on the side of the combination valve and change the fittings to fit into the adjustable one and bypass the stock one (for the rear brakes anyways, leave it in for the fronts). Haven't decided. I remember something about the stock combination valve providing some sort of a tiny delay to keep the rears from locking up first or to keep the car somewhat even in terms of initial bite. I'm sure the other Dean will chime in with more info on this
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