Brake Lite
#1
Brake Lite
hI, AGAIN...I did the roters and pads on my son's 91RS...I thought I went easy on the pedal when i rushed down 1st time to bring pads back in touch w/ rotors, but the brake lite stays on...
Any easy way to reset the lite to off...The brakes work fine...gonna do rear drums/shoes tomorrow...Still haven't gotten the hatch open, yet..!@#$%^ DANA
Any easy way to reset the lite to off...The brakes work fine...gonna do rear drums/shoes tomorrow...Still haven't gotten the hatch open, yet..!@#$%^ DANA
#2
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Costal Alabama
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Re: Brake Lite
Originally posted by dflahe
hI, AGAIN...I did the roters and pads on my son's 91RS...I thought I went easy on the pedal when i rushed down 1st time to bring pads back in touch w/ rotors, but the brake lite stays on...
Any easy way to reset the lite to off...The brakes work fine...gonna do rear drums/shoes tomorrow...Still haven't gotten the hatch open, yet..!@#$%^ DANA
hI, AGAIN...I did the roters and pads on my son's 91RS...I thought I went easy on the pedal when i rushed down 1st time to bring pads back in touch w/ rotors, but the brake lite stays on...
Any easy way to reset the lite to off...The brakes work fine...gonna do rear drums/shoes tomorrow...Still haven't gotten the hatch open, yet..!@#$%^ DANA
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Posts: 942
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
Sometimes if wish this forum had a SPELL CHECK option before you post...
Anyway, you could easily reset the brake light using the same process to reset the other warning lights. Disconnect the negetive battery cable for 5 minutes.
If the brake light still continues to come on, That could indicate a problem with the stock proportioning valve. Simple disconnect the harness and try reseting the computer again. If all else fails, check your fuses. There are not any sensors on or neer the pads or rotors on these cars. Happy hunting.
Anyway, you could easily reset the brake light using the same process to reset the other warning lights. Disconnect the negetive battery cable for 5 minutes.
If the brake light still continues to come on, That could indicate a problem with the stock proportioning valve. Simple disconnect the harness and try reseting the computer again. If all else fails, check your fuses. There are not any sensors on or neer the pads or rotors on these cars. Happy hunting.
#5
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Costal Alabama
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by Dirtbik3r
Anyway, you could easily reset the brake light using the same process to reset the other warning lights. Disconnect the negetive battery cable for 5 minutes.
If the brake light still continues to come on, That could indicate a problem with the stock proportioning valve. Simple disconnect the harness and try reseting the computer again. If all else fails, check your fuses. There are not any sensors on or neer the pads or rotors on these cars. Happy hunting.
Anyway, you could easily reset the brake light using the same process to reset the other warning lights. Disconnect the negetive battery cable for 5 minutes.
If the brake light still continues to come on, That could indicate a problem with the stock proportioning valve. Simple disconnect the harness and try reseting the computer again. If all else fails, check your fuses. There are not any sensors on or neer the pads or rotors on these cars. Happy hunting.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '83 Firebird S/E
Engine: The Chevy 305. with carburator
Transmission: 700R-4
I have rear discs.
Had a brake warning light that remained on after I did a brake job that was so complete, it also included bleeding. Nothing would reset that darn light.
I pulled the front calipers, used a 'C' clamp to push in both pistons all the way.
Reassembled. Hit pedal, and light went out.
I am certain that this won't help you, but there is always a chance that I am wrong.
Seth
Had a brake warning light that remained on after I did a brake job that was so complete, it also included bleeding. Nothing would reset that darn light.
I pulled the front calipers, used a 'C' clamp to push in both pistons all the way.
Reassembled. Hit pedal, and light went out.
I am certain that this won't help you, but there is always a chance that I am wrong.
Seth
#7
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Costal Alabama
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
NoTransistors,
This is because there is a pressure switch on the proportioning valve. If there is a leak in the lines or a large amount of air in the lines it will trip this switch and the brake light on your dash will stay on.
This is because there is a pressure switch on the proportioning valve. If there is a leak in the lines or a large amount of air in the lines it will trip this switch and the brake light on your dash will stay on.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '83 Firebird S/E
Engine: The Chevy 305. with carburator
Transmission: 700R-4
So why has it reset and stayed that way? Do I still have a problem? The car actually does stop, and I am happy to say that this is now in a straight line. Before the rebuild, it pulled dramatically with warmed brakes.
Seth
Seth
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Chicago Area
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 87 Firebird - Blue - Work in progress
Engine: 305 / 4bbl / No mods - yet.
Transmission: 700R4
From my experience, this means either the brake system needs to be bled better or that the warning switch is bad. Even with some air in the lines, in a lot of cases the car will still stop ok. (Like mine did for a while.) But you need to find the real cause to make sure. I would start with bleeding the lines or having a shop do it.
In any case, the warning light is supposed to turn off once the switch (and system) senses a particular pressure. (Something like 400 PSI, if I remember right. Someone keep me honest.)
Hope this helps.
In any case, the warning light is supposed to turn off once the switch (and system) senses a particular pressure. (Something like 400 PSI, if I remember right. Someone keep me honest.)
Hope this helps.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbrochard
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
6
09-19-2015 08:13 PM