line lock fittings?
#1
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Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
line lock fittings?
Ok so I just ordered all new lines for my car from finelines. Ran me around 200 bucks for all new stainless lines. Now where do I order the little rubber lines to get the axle to the calipers?
My main question is about installing the line lock I have on the firewall.
I bolted it on and am gonna run the new stainless lines (bend them a little) up to the line lock. But the hust line lock obviously doesn't use camro threads. Where can I get an addapter fitting? I have no idea.
Thanks for any help
My main question is about installing the line lock I have on the firewall.
I bolted it on and am gonna run the new stainless lines (bend them a little) up to the line lock. But the hust line lock obviously doesn't use camro threads. Where can I get an addapter fitting? I have no idea.
Thanks for any help
#2
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
theres a how to on site somewhere...
but basicly....
you cut your line.
slip a tube nut on.
flare it.
attach it to the line lock with a standard "double flare to 1/8" NPT fitting"
repeat for the other side of the line.
but basicly....
you cut your line.
slip a tube nut on.
flare it.
attach it to the line lock with a standard "double flare to 1/8" NPT fitting"
repeat for the other side of the line.
#3
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Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Wow.....LOL.....suprisingly i never thought of that. I guess I will just rent a flare tool and I have the fittings allready. It will suck to cut up my new stainless steel lines. Oh well.
Thanks again.
later
-Dennis
Thanks again.
later
-Dennis
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Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
SLP does sell something, but I bought my hurst line lock before i figured that out. And they do not sell a seperate insall kit. They only sell it all as a whole.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Don 79 TA
i thought SLP or someone made a plug in kit for a line lock assy.
i thought SLP or someone made a plug in kit for a line lock assy.
and noone makes a metric bubble flare to double flare adapter.
SLPs solution is similar to what i just posted... their line is a metric line with the stock bubble flare on one end, and a standard tube nut and double flare on the other end.
dennisbernal91z this is important!!
if you have metric lines, you NEED NEED NEED a METRIC double flaring tool.
if you try to use the standard one, it will slip in the holder, and mess up your line. the line is short, and you only have one shot.
i was lucky enough to have a parts car when i discovered that.. you dont want to mess up your new SS lines.
use a METRIC tool.
its ok to use a standard tube nut with the metric line.
and you can use the metric flarer... they're the same angle as the standard.
the only diff is a slight change in the OD of the tube.. but its enough to make it slip.
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Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Hollt crap, that big bold scared me the first time I saw it. haha.
Damn this friggin line lock is proving to be more foa pain in the *** than i ever expected. I am not sure what you are refering to MrDude_1 when you say I only have one shot. I will have each line from the front calipers both going into the line lock, so I will have to cut the bubble flares off of them and make METRIC (correct?) flares and attach the lines. Now to get from the line lock to the line lock I will need some double flare-------bubble flare tubing. I assume I can take one of the bubble flares that I have to cut off and add a double flare to it and run that from the lock to the prop valve.
I guess there is really no way to tell if any of this is going to work till I get the lines and start laying them out to see how much slack I will have as I run the lines on the tubular K-member acnd stuff.
Lets hope this works, if not......I will be very pissed and am sure I will have to order some custom thing from fine lines or inline tube.
I will also rent a metic flare tool as soon as I get my SS lines.
Thanks for all the help so far, I am sure I will be on here crying in a week when i have more qustions about how I UN-mess up my SS lines.
till then, later.
-Dennis
Damn this friggin line lock is proving to be more foa pain in the *** than i ever expected. I am not sure what you are refering to MrDude_1 when you say I only have one shot. I will have each line from the front calipers both going into the line lock, so I will have to cut the bubble flares off of them and make METRIC (correct?) flares and attach the lines. Now to get from the line lock to the line lock I will need some double flare-------bubble flare tubing. I assume I can take one of the bubble flares that I have to cut off and add a double flare to it and run that from the lock to the prop valve.
I guess there is really no way to tell if any of this is going to work till I get the lines and start laying them out to see how much slack I will have as I run the lines on the tubular K-member acnd stuff.
Lets hope this works, if not......I will be very pissed and am sure I will have to order some custom thing from fine lines or inline tube.
I will also rent a metic flare tool as soon as I get my SS lines.
Thanks for all the help so far, I am sure I will be on here crying in a week when i have more qustions about how I UN-mess up my SS lines.
till then, later.
-Dennis
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by dennisbernal91z
I will have each line from the front calipers both going into the line lock
I will have each line from the front calipers both going into the line lock
some have options for positioning, and i suppose you could use it as a T as well... but "normal" installation has it just after the master cyl.
what will you be using for a prop valve? a aftermarket one, or the stock one?
Originally posted by dennisbernal91z
so I will have to cut the bubble flares off of them and make METRIC (correct?) flares and attach the lines. N
so I will have to cut the bubble flares off of them and make METRIC (correct?) flares and attach the lines. N
you ordered the lines, so you should know if they're metric or standard... but your stockers are metric.
Originally posted by dennisbernal91z
Now to get from the line lock to the line lock I will need some double flare-------bubble flare tubing. I assume I can take one of the bubble flares that I have to cut off and add a double flare to it and run that from the lock to the prop valve.
Now to get from the line lock to the line lock I will need some double flare-------bubble flare tubing. I assume I can take one of the bubble flares that I have to cut off and add a double flare to it and run that from the lock to the prop valve.
Originally posted by dennisbernal91z
Thanks for all the help so far, I am sure I will be on here crying in a week when i have more qustions about how I UN-mess up my SS lines.
till then, later.
-Dennis
Thanks for all the help so far, I am sure I will be on here crying in a week when i have more qustions about how I UN-mess up my SS lines.
till then, later.
-Dennis
#9
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Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
My line lock has: 1-in and 3-out.
I will be using a stock prop. valve.
I ordered stock lines from fine lines. They did not give me any options in terms of standard or metric. If stock is metric then that is what is in the mail.
Sorry about the confusing phase i said earlier.
The prop. valve has 2 in. and 3 out. Of those 3 out: 1 left front, 1 right front, and one rear.
The rear stays normal, the left front (or right, doesn't matter) will be pugged. Then the non-lugged one will go to the line lock (in).
From the line lock 2 of the outs will be used to go to each front wheel. Thats all.
It is just going to be a pain to get the lines bent correctly and to get the right flare on the right parts.
What i was saying when i drew that (-------------) thing was that I will need a line that has one end bubble and one end double. This will be the line that goes from the prop. valve to the line lock (in).
Hope this makes sence.
Later
-Dennis
I will be using a stock prop. valve.
I ordered stock lines from fine lines. They did not give me any options in terms of standard or metric. If stock is metric then that is what is in the mail.
Sorry about the confusing phase i said earlier.
The prop. valve has 2 in. and 3 out. Of those 3 out: 1 left front, 1 right front, and one rear.
The rear stays normal, the left front (or right, doesn't matter) will be pugged. Then the non-lugged one will go to the line lock (in).
From the line lock 2 of the outs will be used to go to each front wheel. Thats all.
It is just going to be a pain to get the lines bent correctly and to get the right flare on the right parts.
What i was saying when i drew that (-------------) thing was that I will need a line that has one end bubble and one end double. This will be the line that goes from the prop. valve to the line lock (in).
Hope this makes sence.
Later
-Dennis
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