Drilled, Slotted? or Blank Rotors?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
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From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Drilled, Slotted? or Blank Rotors?
I have some questions if anyone could please be so kind as to answer them for me? 
So im debating now what kinda of rotors I should get for my 91 RS, I keep hearing that the drilled and slotted rotors are only good for looks and do actually decrease alot of heat, but they also crack very easly...? what do you all break folks think about this?
Also I work at Pep Boys and I looked up some calipers and rotors for a 1997 Camaro Z28, and the rotors are more bigger and calipers are also much bigger than my current ones, is it possible for me to install these 1997 calipers and rotors on my current set up? will it bolt right in? what modifications or changes will I have to do? get a new brake hose?
thanks! any information would greatly help! THESE ARE FOR THE FRONT BRAKES!!!

So im debating now what kinda of rotors I should get for my 91 RS, I keep hearing that the drilled and slotted rotors are only good for looks and do actually decrease alot of heat, but they also crack very easly...? what do you all break folks think about this?
Also I work at Pep Boys and I looked up some calipers and rotors for a 1997 Camaro Z28, and the rotors are more bigger and calipers are also much bigger than my current ones, is it possible for me to install these 1997 calipers and rotors on my current set up? will it bolt right in? what modifications or changes will I have to do? get a new brake hose?
thanks! any information would greatly help! THESE ARE FOR THE FRONT BRAKES!!!
Last edited by Psycho_91Camaro; Apr 3, 2006 at 10:52 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,308
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From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
First off, the rotors. From my research, as I am in the midst of a full c5/z06 conversion, drilled/slotted rotors are 95% looks over performance. Their is a big debate over on the camaroz28.com forum about this as well. I am going to go with stock replacement but am considering the brembo oem replacements. Supposedly the heavier the rotor the better which is the reason I am looking into brembos. Stock rotors are around 16lbs and most aftermarket replacements are around 18lbs. The bigger the rotor, the more metal. The more metal, the better it is to dissipate heat. Consider a rotor as a giant heatsink. I am not going to bother with drill/slot rotors, too much of a liability with cracking plus it doesn't do much of anything but giving you the right to say "Hey I have high-performance rotors because they are drilled!"
The calipers are another story. I know there is a big conversion on LS1 calipers but those are years 98+. I have seen a few LT1s at junkyard and the front assembly is different than ours. Calipers only "should" be the same PBRs as our thirdgens. Don't quote me on that as I have been researching the c5/z06 swap mostly.
The calipers are another story. I know there is a big conversion on LS1 calipers but those are years 98+. I have seen a few LT1s at junkyard and the front assembly is different than ours. Calipers only "should" be the same PBRs as our thirdgens. Don't quote me on that as I have been researching the c5/z06 swap mostly.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 447
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From: Long Island NY
Car: Hers: 88 Formula 350
Engine: TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt Posi
i know from my personal experience that the cross drilled rotors seemed to "bite" hard so to speak.
however when i had them on her 90 V60 bird, they warped on us when we were driving on the parkway. there was plenty of meat on the pads too.
why they warped i don't know, i didn't really slam the breaks on, i guess they just got hot in traffic
only thing i can attribute to it is that the smaller diameter.
on my 79 TA the powerstops work great
on my 88 comanche, ehhhhhh
on her 90 bird before they warped, they bit better
if you have the $$, i don't think they would hurt, however i don't see them as a total necessity, unless you have alot of HP to slow down
i'd look at Earls brake hoses as more of a necessity, as they don't swell up as much as stock lines
however when i had them on her 90 V60 bird, they warped on us when we were driving on the parkway. there was plenty of meat on the pads too.
why they warped i don't know, i didn't really slam the breaks on, i guess they just got hot in traffic
only thing i can attribute to it is that the smaller diameter.
on my 79 TA the powerstops work great
on my 88 comanche, ehhhhhh
on her 90 bird before they warped, they bit better
if you have the $$, i don't think they would hurt, however i don't see them as a total necessity, unless you have alot of HP to slow down
i'd look at Earls brake hoses as more of a necessity, as they don't swell up as much as stock lines
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 226
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From: Virginia Beach
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 4l60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
drilled or not drilled, that is the question, for daily driving, its a matter of prefrence, not going to do much or anything. also dont use 97 brakes, when you can do the C5 brakes for just as much, but much better. I am doing the C6, cause it not really costing much more than the C5 or LS1. for me, its drilled, because the C6 F51 corvette rotors come stock, drilled.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,577
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
I have my own personal opinions, and am not all that fond of even slotted, at least not on the front. I do prefer the feel of slotted rears, with blank fronts.
Opinions aside...Here is what StopTech has to say about the issue.
Opinions aside...Here is what StopTech has to say about the issue.
StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
So the rotors and calipers should bolt right up to my stock set up?
from the 1997 Camaro 5.7, I looked them up on the Pep Boys computers and then looked for the parts and compared the 1991 Rotor and Caliper to the 1997 Camaro Caliper and Rotor big difference in size and price, if you guys belive it will bolt right up to the spindle, im going to buy em! and keep the receipt
from the 1997 Camaro 5.7, I looked them up on the Pep Boys computers and then looked for the parts and compared the 1991 Rotor and Caliper to the 1997 Camaro Caliper and Rotor big difference in size and price, if you guys belive it will bolt right up to the spindle, im going to buy em! and keep the receipt

Originally Posted by spartyon
First off, the rotors. From my research, as I am in the midst of a full c5/z06 conversion, drilled/slotted rotors are 95% looks over performance. Their is a big debate over on the camaroz28.com forum about this as well. I am going to go with stock replacement but am considering the brembo oem replacements. Supposedly the heavier the rotor the better which is the reason I am looking into brembos. Stock rotors are around 16lbs and most aftermarket replacements are around 18lbs. The bigger the rotor, the more metal. The more metal, the better it is to dissipate heat. Consider a rotor as a giant heatsink. I am not going to bother with drill/slot rotors, too much of a liability with cracking plus it doesn't do much of anything but giving you the right to say "Hey I have high-performance rotors because they are drilled!"
The calipers are another story. I know there is a big conversion on LS1 calipers but those are years 98+. I have seen a few LT1s at junkyard and the front assembly is different than ours. Calipers only "should" be the same PBRs as our thirdgens. Don't quote me on that as I have been researching the c5/z06 swap mostly.
The calipers are another story. I know there is a big conversion on LS1 calipers but those are years 98+. I have seen a few LT1s at junkyard and the front assembly is different than ours. Calipers only "should" be the same PBRs as our thirdgens. Don't quote me on that as I have been researching the c5/z06 swap mostly.
Last edited by Psycho_91Camaro; Apr 3, 2006 at 11:12 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 2
From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
I never said that they would bolt right up. In fact I said that there is a big conversion on the LS1 calipers. Also, calipers might be the same but the rotors might not be. If they are anything like the LS1 fronts, you need to have a hub made for the rotor to mount to. I would PM someone like ebmiller because he really knows his stuff when it comes to brake swaps.
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
should allways buy the best stuff you can afford.
for me it came down to AZ 3 month warranty cheap solid rotors
or some Ebay drilled n slotted rotors.
The deciding factor was $7, for $7 more I got two fancy rotors shipped for near same price and cheap AZ blanks.
So you know I got the drilled n slotted for $75 shipped.
If I had $3000 id buy a real brake kit with monster massive rotors and calipers the size of a toyota. Though my brake system is all new. Only two parts left to change that will happen soon. Prop valve and rear brake wheel cylinders.
for me it came down to AZ 3 month warranty cheap solid rotors
or some Ebay drilled n slotted rotors.
The deciding factor was $7, for $7 more I got two fancy rotors shipped for near same price and cheap AZ blanks.
So you know I got the drilled n slotted for $75 shipped.
If I had $3000 id buy a real brake kit with monster massive rotors and calipers the size of a toyota. Though my brake system is all new. Only two parts left to change that will happen soon. Prop valve and rear brake wheel cylinders.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 19
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From: NJ
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383ci TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Don't even try crossing any of the brake parts from a fourth gen. They are not the same. My opinion for what its worth and from what I have heard, slotted rotors are the way to go. The slots allow the gasses to escape from between the pads and rotors as well as some heat. The cross drilled have a tendency to crack if you do any hard braking at all. Good Luck
Originally Posted by TownleyBA
Don't even try crossing any of the brake parts from a fourth gen. They are not the same. My opinion for what its worth and from what I have heard, slotted rotors are the way to go. The slots allow the gasses to escape from between the pads and rotors as well as some heat. The cross drilled have a tendency to crack if you do any hard braking at all. Good Luck
I also have the quickest stopping 3rd gen on these boards -and slotted and drilled rotors to boot, go figure. I also have the lightest brake setup and the largest, plus the best pedal modulation
So everyones wrong
Yeah, I'm being my sarcastic self Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383ci TPI
Transmission: 700r4
I did some custom modded spindles, like what the wilwood kit said to do. But then I put on 1LE rotors with Wilwood calipers. They stop pretty awesome. I still have to upgrade my rear calipers to Wilwood. I am going to go with the slighly smaller piston size on the rear to keep the brakes balanced. There are definitly some affordable alternatives. Not to say that a $3000 dollar Baer setup wouldn't be sweet.
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