I've got freshly rebuild PBR calipers on my rear end, new hawk pads and new rotors. The ebrake on one side works perfect but the other side isn't grabbing the rotor enough to even stop me from turning it by hand. The lever is moving full travel to the stop but the pin seems like it's to short by 1/16" to effectivly push the pad against the rotor. What the heck is wrong? I can't figure out anything obvious.

 

Probably a "free travel" problem:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ee+%252Btravel

JamesC

 

I did mess with the screw a little bit the other day but it seemed to make the rotor drag to much with the ebrake off. I'll have to wait until I get the booster and master cylinder installed and try to adjust it by the procedure.

 

Well I still haven't gotten this problem fixed. I worked through the free travel adjustment but it didn't help at all. On the drivers side of the car the ebrake lever only has to move through about half it's travel before the pad is tight. On the passenger side the lever is at full travel and it's not pushing the plunger in enough to tighten the pad. Does anyone have any ideas? Do I need to replace the plunger maybe?

 

Does the caliper slide freely in the caliper slides? Is it binding at all? Seems like there's too much pad play and the lever and plunger can't take it all up. No need to replace anything, that's not the issue. How new are the calipers?

Ed

 

Did you swap in a rear end which included PBR's or did you swap PBR's on to your existing rear? If the latter, you may need to shim the backing plates.

JamesC

 

the caliper does move freely on the pins. I don't notice any binding. I think I might agree on the extra pad play but I can't figure out why I have it. Pressing the brake pedal, the caliper works fine. The calipers are out of a 95. I rebuilt them before they were installed. The Brackets that hold the carrier to the rear were made myself since I've got a ford 9" rear. I don't see how shimming the carrier would help since that just moves the carrier over the rotor and the caliper floats on it pins.

 

Shimming is interesting. Apparently, the 9-bolts didn't require shims. The 10-bolts did (GM discontinuted them in 99). I used one in my swap to, of course, center the carrier/caliper over the rotor. Just seemed to make sense regardless of the caliper's floating ability. All functions well. I hope you figure out your problem--nothing more irritating than the little things.

JamesC

 

I was just messing around with it and it seems like It has a good 1/16th of an inch extra play that needs taken out for the ebrake to be effective. And that's with brand new pads with no wear. I'm really boggled. Looking at the other side that works fine, it seems like the piston assembly isn't out as far. Also the carriers are fairly centered and there is plenty emounh play in the slinding pins to account for caliper movement. any more ideas?