dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Well I am posting here just to warn people about stainless steel brake lines. They are not good. They are very hard to flare. And even when they are perfect, there is a good chance for leaks. I have taken a fitting out of my MC, cleaned it off, cleaned out the hole, PERFECTLY. Then even heated up the pipe end a little and pushed it in as fast as possible, making sure not to cross thread. And then screwed it on as hard as possible without fear of stripping the threads and STILL IT LEAKSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!....

Now I have a leaky Prop valve, SS lines and a new MC and a booster that is new but not installed cuz the one I have now turned out to be just fine. Stuff is leaking and I still have not been able to get the damn bleaders to blead any fluid. I am so frustrated with this shi t!!!!!!!!!!

I am at my wits end and the car has to drive 30minutes to the paint shop on Monday!... I am thinking just get it as good as possible and then drive slower than 30 the whole way there and solve the problem after the paint. It still stops, just not well at all.


I am thinking about what to do after it is all done and starting fresh. New standard steel lines. NO BUBBLE FLARES except at the MC and then finally installing my adj prop valve that I so badly will need. Maybe run me like $200 bucks or so after all is said and done. I just really wanna be able to stop!...

trumps2000

iTrader: (2)

I bought a new set of S/S preformed brake lines and they worked and fit great. Then I tried cutting and flaring a couple of small pieces and gave up early. I'd just install a preformed S/S set and use regular steel for the line lock, although I think they maybe able to sell you a set for that too.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

They can. I called a long time ago to find out about that. They can make anything you want for a few bucks more. Like custom stuff.

I am going to screw it all and get standard steel lines for the front, all with NORMAL 45 degree flares on them at the prop valve and then all I have to do is cut and flare 1 line that goes to the rear so I can put in my adjustable prop valve and get a single adapter for that. This will make the line lock a no brainer cuz with all the fittings being standard flare, the parts of line they have at the parts stores will finally work!!!!!!

Not too sure what I am going to do about my car and its paintjob deadline. I have no gross leaks now, so maybe with a good bleed, the car can be safe enough to get to and from the shop. Then after it is painted, I can deal with the brake issue nice and slow. Also getting those C5 convertions I have been waiting for a good time to get.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

are you using the right type of flare tool? brake lines require a double flare, a single flare is not safe to use for brake line work & it is common for a single flare to leak.