I am curious to know if any of you have a line lock?
My camaro is an 89 5.0, 5 speed.
The five speed is one reason I want one, but the big one is cause I don't want the rear brakes to burn up every time I do a burn out.
Is their any specific brand that does better from your experiance?
I don't need a full kit, just the solenoid. I can do the lines, wires, switch, and relay.

 

SLP makes a great kit. Comes with prebent lines, adapters and wiring.

 

I second SLP I installed one on my car, very easy insyall

 

Can I get that from summit or jegs?
What does SLP stand for?

 

street legal performance

 

Summit SLP kinda pricey $155
link http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294840140
----------
link to all line locks summit
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...s=false&N=+115

as low as $40 with out lines and switch

 

That is what I was thinking. I know I could get some brake line, I have a switch, I need to get 2 relays anyway (about 5 buck). That could be a lot cheaper that 155. Just curious to see if their was any particular brand anybody liked or had good luck with.

 

anyone use one of the cheaper one from jegs or summit

also where exactly would you install it, A PIC WOULD BE NICE GUYS, please and thank you... But i agree about doing my own lines and harness

 

I am using the Hurst line lock, Aassembly is straight forward and Very easy as long as you can flare and bend new brake lines for a clean look.

I don't have a picture of mine anymore, its mounted right where the proportioning valve used to be. right under the master cylinder.

 

I think I am going to put mine on the firewall.

 

A friend of mine just put the slp kit on his mustang but he says he doesnt want to drag race... he just wants it for fun.

I told him he wasted his money, but can anyone think of a real reason as to why you would install this if you dont plan on drag racing?

 

Doing long burnouts

 

Lets you do sweet long burnouts without ruining your back brakes.

 

Other than burnouts, e-brake.
That makes a bad e-brake though. Cause if you leave it on for to long your rubber lines will wear out and swell. Then you will have a soft pedal.
That's why they tell you not to have them on for more than 30 or 60 sec's. If I remeber right.

 

i'm running the biondo brand line loc from summit, here's a pic of the install..shows the adjustable prop valve too(4 wheel disc)



front clip removed while i did everything....and yes it is a regal, but i'm running a 5.3/t56 combo and 1LE front brakes...

 

I have the biondo setup as well. $40 and it's rebuildable (not that you'd ever need to). They are directional, be aware (it's obvious,but I managed to screw it up).
$40 + $5 for a line from napa and $5 for 2 adapters to pipe thread. Done.

 

Sorry to bring this back to the top. I installed mine a few months ago. Have only drove the car a few times since then. I got the Jegs brand lock, which is just a reboxed Biondo. When I opened the box, it has the Biondo slip in it and I saved something like $20 just because it didn't have the name on the box.
Anyway, making your own lines it a PITA! I ended up just buying some lines I had made with an SAE fitting on one end and the Metric for our calipers on the other. I just put it on a switch in the console. I need to rewire it so it cannot be turned on unless the ignition is on. You should not need any relays, just a fuse and a switch.

 

Okay now I have two more questions.
I do have mine now. I am not concerened with monting/lines/or wires.
I had it expained to me this week that a prop vavle is a failure vavle. If the front goes out it blocks the fluid from the master clyinder to the prop valve. So the rear can still build pressure and work.
Is that true. I always thought that they put more pressure on the front. If not why would you need an adjustable?
Last one, has anyone put a line lock before the prop valve.

 

The prop valve is a proportioning valve. It gives a different pressure to the front than what gets to the back. Whoever told you that it was a failure valve is wrong.

Putting a line lock before a prop valve is useless. It holds pressure to all of the brakes, which is the exact same as just standing on your brakes.

 

Thank you.

 

Im using a line lock, because my rear brake bias is higher than stock. So when I go to the track, or try to do a burn out, I cant just hold my brake. It will stop the rear wheels too easy.

Using a line lock as an e-brake is not an option. You would have to have the solenoid powered the entire time, and thats not what its designed for. Not to mention it will use battery power. Lines swelling would be the least of your worries if you tried to use it as an e-brake. Plus...you SHOULD have a momentary button to activate the line lock. A master power switch, and a mom. pushbutton like on your shifter or dash or something. I dont care what anyone says...thats the best/safest way to set them up.

What the other guys said about the prop valve is correct. You can run the front brakes off the master with no prop valve. But the rears need the valve in order to set the brake bias...more or less. I have an adjustable prop valve just for the rears. The fronts get 100% of what the master can provide.

J.