I was just wondering how necessary it was to re-pack the bearings with grease.

I need to do pads on the front soon, but the rotors are like new, so I just plan on running the cookie around them a few times to re-condition the surface.

Since the rotors need not replaced, I would rather not mess with taking them off the car. However, I have no idea as to when the last time a mechanic had them off the car! Considering the other maintenence on the car (well, lact thereof) when I bought it, I would guess these were the factory brakes. However, the mounting surface of the rotors, when the wheel is off, have a bright purple stripe on them. This, in addition to the minimal wear, could mean that they are relatively new.

Another factor I have to consider, is that in order to re-grease them, I would need to buy the grease, the cotter pins, the bearing packer, the kerosene to wash them out, and maybe the socket to get the castle nut loose, if I dont already have on in my impact socket set.

Another note, I am just gonna put the cheepo valucraft pads on. I plan on getting powerslot rotors, new bearings, HPS pads, and possibly new calipers at some point in the next year.

 

If you took the oil out of your motor, would you put the same oil back in?

Why do that to your wheel bearings?

Yet another argument in favor of renewing this critical lubrication.

The "expense" is not a very good excuse.

Grease = like $3 for a pound (enough for about 25 cars worth of wheel bearings)
Cotter pin = like $0.15

You don't need a bearing packer; you can easily force the grease into the bearings by hand.

Use diesel fuel, followed by lacquer thinner, to clean them. Works FAR better than kerosene. Since you're a "hobbyist" kind of a guy like most of the rest of us, you probably have those things, just like you already have the grease, in your garage, anyway; and if you don't, you should.

You won't need a socket for the nut. Your Crescent wrench or Channellocks will work fine. It won't have more than about 2 ft-lbs of torque on it.

 

Well, if I didnt take the rotors off, wouldnt it be like not ever draining the oil? Because I mean, I wouldnt put the old oil back in, but if I never took any out...

An assortment of cotter pins at autozone was $6. It had all different sizes, so the right one would probably be there. A tub of grease was like $5. If I dont need a bearing packer, that would be good. But I dont have diesel fuel, or lacquer thinner at home.

The main reason I ask is because, well I went down there to get a hex socket, pads, and some brake fluid. I had money for that - planned. When I started to look at packing the bearings ect, I couldnt afford it, so I left with just the hex socket.

 

You can pick up individual cotter pins at the hardware store for, yes, like $0.15. Might save $0.50 getting the grease at WalMart.

Your first priority is getting those pads on. The rotors don't have to come off for that. You'll have to decide how much more to do.

Check your bearings while you have it jacked up. Grasp the wheel at six and 12 o'clock and if there's any play in/out you'll have to add new bearings to the list.

 

Greasing wheel bearings is normal, routine, scheduled, FREQUENT maintenance; not something to be avoided.

Just like your oil or rear end fluid or whatever, if you haven't greased them since you've had the car, then they need to be greased. To me, that's part of the basic "I just bought a car" standard procedure; along with changing all the other fluids, new brake pads (& rotors if they need it), new shocks, new sway bar bushings and end links, lubing the ball joints and steering and such, oiling or greasing the door hinges, air & fuel filters, spark plugs, cap & rotor, injector cleaning or replacement or carb rebuild, and a general inspection of the vehicle. Basically, if you haven't done it, it's overdue, by definition, since it was due at the time you acquired the car.

Just do it.

 

Have you ever repacked front wheel bearings before? From your hesitation it sounds like you haven't? It's really easy, a quick job. I agree, check play, you may need new bearings anyway. They aren't that expensive though.
A tub of that stinky green grease is about $5, and you'll use it for other things. A gallon of laquer thinner is about $7 or so, and you can just pour it into some old milk jug or something for this job. You just tighten the castle nut until what, "snug", then back it off to line up a hole? Then check it by spinning the rotor - look for a slight amount of drag, and that's it. NAPA can typically just sell you the one cotter pin you need, rather than selling you a pile and saying "find the right one". The guys at napa tend to be a tiny bit sharper than the average auto parts store (hence why their prices are 15-20% higher....). I'd almost go out on a limb here and take a guess at the size : 3/16" or 1/4", and about 1.5" long. Actually I think you can buy the castle nut, washer, and cotter pin in a little baggie when you ask for the parts for a wheel bearing repack on an '85 camaro or something along those lines.

 

yeah, I have never done it before. I was guessing that the best grease would be like the castrol or whatever that is recommended for GM. My dads grease gun just has black chassis grease in it.

I was just real afraid that I would not put enough grease in them to begin with.

As for the play, I think the ball joints have some play in them. I noticed a little in-out when my hands were 12-6 o'clock, but the play was on the bottom.

I gave up on doing the brakes today. I just didnt feel like spending all my money, then working all day and possibly rendering my car un-drivable, just to have all this easter stuff tomorrow. damnit.

 

The best grease is either moly, which you can get Valvoline brand most anywhere, or synthetic such as Mobil1. The old Kendall blue grease is OK too, as is white lithium. Just about anything EXCEPT the "fiber" type is OK. Come to think of it, I haven't seen any "fiber" grease, where they put fibergalss or some such in it to hold it in its place, for a long time...

 

Well I just went to the walmart to save some money.

I got a can of Penzoil "Premium Red wheel bearing grease" for wheel bearing apps with high load, and high temp, "resistant to washout from water".

I was kinda pissed because usually walmart has like every grease, but all they had was that, and super-tech all-purpose grease. Whatever.

Also picked up a quart of lacquer thinner, some prestone DOT3, and some PB blaster for the caliper bolts.

I looked down in the basement, and my dad only has 3 sizes of cotter pins. Really small ones, that are like smaller than a paper clip, one that measures 1/4" wide (at the head) and 1.5" long, and one that measures 3/8" at the head, and about 2" or 2.5" long.

-------------------

Is there any tricks I should know about packing the bearings by hand? Or is it something I can figure out by just having them in my hand and looking at them? I just really dont understand how the grease stays in them for all those miles, without flinging out. Should I try and cram some in the hub of the rotor too on the races, and into the outer hub before I put the cap back on?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

That kind of grease should be fine.

If you just take your finger and kind of wipe it down into the space between the rollers, and then use the palm of your hand to pack it into the edges, that'll get it filled up. Then smear a good bit onto the surface. It'll make sense to you when you see the parts.

You don't really want ANY in the center of the hub. In fact, if there's any in there now, wipe it all out with a paper towel or whatever.

It won't come out, because the outer race is in the way.

Don't forget to pack the inner (large) bearing, then put it into the rotor, then put in the new seal. Smear a bit of grease on the lip of the seal, and take some medium to fine sandpaper or emery cloth (220-320 is about good) and sand the little surface on the spindle where the seal runs against it.

You need a cotter pin that's about 1½" - 2" long, and about the OD of a 10-penny to a 16-penny nail. Not real critical. The 2 larger sizes you describe, one or the other, if not both, should work.

When you put it back together, tighten it up to about 8 or 10 ft-lbs while turning the rotor; then back it off, and re-tighten to about 5 ft-lbs; then tighten from there to the next place where the cotter pin hole lines up. Should take about 1-2 ft-lbs to turn the rotor when you're done.

 

Oh, I gotta buy new seals, too? Didnt know that.

I guess what people say is that when the nut is finally tightened, you should just feel a little drag on the rotor (like it is now). Does that make sense?

I dont have a tq wrench, that only why I ask. And if I did, I doubt it would be accurate if at all below like 20ftlb.

 

http://youtube.com/watch?v=agxjGtmHV_4

That's how I did it. Took forever to do all four bearings, but my oh my were they well greased.

 

That video looked good. I was about to try to describe how to pack a wheel bearing, but that video is worth at least 1000 words.
Yea the seals are another $2-3 or so.
At the counter, grab a packet of brake caliper lube. Silicon grease. You can get a little pouch of it for $.99 which is enough to relube your calipers. Beats having brakes that wear funny or squeal.

 

Watch these videos and tell me what you think...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=LOB_Xy4J6lI

http://youtube.com/watch?v=4iMyhEPdP3Q&feature=related

thanks!

BTW I also watched the video you posted, but they are completely different. Thats why I ask.

 

Nathan's way will work ok, but I prefer the "greasy palm" method that the first video showed. You can see the grease start to come out the top of the bearing and you know it's full.

After washing the old grease out, do NOT spin dry them with the air compressor. You can blow on them, but don't let the air cause the bearing to race around or they will be trash.

 

Don't make me drive to CT and do this for you. At least get those brake pads put on before you post again....

 

Well its no emergency, I could probably squeeze another 5k out of them before the rivits.

And I have not bought the pads yet. I ran out of money, due to un-expected expense

I guess packing the wheel bearings will be a good learning experience. If I f** it up, at least it will be old bearings and an old rotor. Then when I get powerslots and new bearings, I will be better at doing it.

I will probably try on monday. Tomorrow is easter, so gotta wait. Tuesday, got a job interview at Maaco. So, if the weather holds up, monday it will be.

If I can get ahold of all the right parts, I will try and take pictures while I am at it. Would probably be nice to make a how-to thread for other n00b's to see how I did it.

 

Well i got the pads this morning. Duralast - 4 for $22 yee haw.

Only little hitch, is they were all out of caliper grease. Every register was. Is there something else I can smear on there, like petroleum jelly, or my wheel bearing grease?

Oh also, I dont have any diesel fuel. Can I use gasoline to wash the bearings? I did get some lacquer to rinse them in too.

 

Yes you can use gasoline. Be careful of the hazard, though.

Caliper grease is optional; don't worry too much about it, if they didn't have it. Alternatively, you can use dielectric grease, like you'd use on plug wire boots.

 

Alright, thanks. Hopefully I will be able to get that far. I posted pics in the other thread.

If I dont figure this out, im just gonna anti-sieze everything and put it back together with the old pads, my dad needs to park in his garage at 5:30 tonight.

 

Alright, just got the cotter pin out, about to loosen the castle nut.

I forgot to buy new seals. Will the old ones work?

 

Alright I know I'm gonna get flamed for this but...

Eh, the old seals will work fine.

No it's not a good idea, No I wouldn't do it personally, but No your bearings won't explode or fall apart or anything. Just be mindful of the used seals next time you work on your brakes. If you decide to re-use them, it might be a good idea to just get all new bearings next time...now that you're a wheel bearing pro

 

Well, I might have to try and get them out without damaging them then...

I have no idea how old the bearings are. They were in green grease, with a white plastic outer basket, and they say "timkin" or something on them.

Probably replace them when I do new rotors next time anyway - new race, new bearing, right?

 

There ya go

 

Got the car driving again, with the new pads.

I just decided to eat some lumch, and wait for my mom to get out of work. She was able to stop at NAPA and pick me up the new seals for the rotors. My seal puller kinda put a little crimp on the old ones, plus they were beat.

The only thing I am kinda worried about, is how I packed the bearings. I did it just like the video, but the grease was completely different. His is the green stuff, which is more thinner. My penzoil red "premium wheel bearing grease" was actually more like a gel, and real thick. It didnt come through the rollers like his did, so I ended up just loading it up untill the whole thing looked like a big glob of pink, and then I hope it works its way into the rollers while driving. I definately put a ton on each bearing, and smeared it around the spindles too.

The thing is, turning the rotor with the new grease, it has alot more drag. I didnt have a problem setting the castle nut - there was only one way I could put it, where the cotter pin would fit, and there was no play in the bearings. The next notch tighter really made it hard to turn the rotor, but the next notch looser made visible movement to and from in the bearings. My best guess is that the really thick grease is kinda clogging up the rollers, but I guess driving around will move the excess grease out of the way.

The brake pads are pretty sweet. I was skeptical at first, because even after putting it all back together, and pumping the pedal, they were still dragging on the rotor. I bet in a day or 2 they will be worn down just enough not to touch the rotor. But for super cheap pads, they stop alot better than the old ones did.

Thanks for all the help, guys. I really appreciate it. I will have pics up later that I took, during the job.

 

All in all, it's a nice simple job. Just time consuming and dirty.

I used Mobile 1 Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease. Stuff is wicked thick. Took me about forty minutes to get all four bearings greased. Both sides. I got premium Timken bearings and seals too. Raybestos rotors, Hawks HPS pads.

Now, my rear brakes are grinding metal. But at $75/rotor, I'll swap in the 10 bolt with PBR brakes before I replace the brakes on this 9 bolt.

 

I think this summer, I want to get the Powerslot rotors, and hawk pads. I will probably get new calipers too, and I want some braided lines. When I upload the pics, you will see I also need a brake fluid flush too.

I have heard pretty good stuff about the powerslot's. Even better about their "cryo-treated" rotors. But that is high dollar. There was a guy with the cryo treated ones on my FWD monte forum, and he got about 55k miles out of them. That was with hawk pads, and PFC carbon metallics. One set of rotors, slotted, through like 6 sets of pads during hard driving and AutoX is pretty good...

Not too sure if I want to upgrade to dual-piston calipers, or just keep stock. These OEM ones really dont have anything wrong with them...

 

lol what thread do you NOT talk about what you want to do to your car in the future?

Glad you got the bearings packed though...wasn't as hard as it sounded was it? Did you at least throw on some latex gloves so that your hands are slimmy for 2 days?

 

Nope. No gloves. I had some on for when I dunked them in the gasoline. Then the gasoline somehow ended up inside the gloves, so I took them off.

I did have one more question I just remembered. On the left side, I disconnected that clip that keeps the rubber brake hose in place. I could not get it back on though, for the life of me. I couldnt figure out how. It came off easy enough with a screwdriver.

Is that clip critical? Will the hose like rub on the tire or something without it?

 

I'd sure as hell check. Turn the wheel lock to lock.

And, if the money is available, upgrade your brakes. Trust me. With a 90 though, you at least have the PBR rear brakes, which are lightyears ahead of the old iron delco moraines. Unless you have drums. Then ebmiller88 has that hassle free drum to disc conversion, I just think it lacks a parking brake. Or was that the hassle free drum to C5 disc conversion....

Either way, brake upgrades are pretty cheap. 4th gen rears just bolt on, or you can get the wilwood kit for 4th gens and run some nice 12.2" discs back there. According to AGood2.8 (Dean) they fit under a 16" Iroc with no rubbing, dunno how well they'll fit with your honeycombs, but I do know the crosslaces eliminate a few brake options. The kit is only $600.

Front brakes get considerably more pricey, plus you have to mod your spindles. (Personally, I'd see about getting 'em PC'd after you mod them. Powder coated crap is just SO MUCH EASIER to clean.) ebmiller88 is a GREAT guy to bounce ideas off of, and he has whole kits for our cars in stock and ready to ship. Cheaper than getting them together yourself for the most part. And he includes everything. You won't be stuck looking for an odd bolt at Home Depot.

Replacing the rubber lines, upgrading the calipers/rotors, do a visual on your hardlines, make sure nothings bent or anything. Then you're up to the booster and the MC and the prop valve. Should install an adjustable valve. Over on the brake board we're working on using hydraboost and a 4th Gen MC. There aren't many other MC's that will fit these cars either, because of how close the MC is to the strut tower. CPP's MCPV-1 supposedly fits, but I've never seen anyone with one installed. It's cheaper than getting a 4th gen MC from Autozone/Checker/Etc though, so it might be worth the shot.

 

The bracket that the clip clips the line to, has a hex hole in it; and the fitting on the end of the rubber hose has a hex. Once you get it turned the right way so that they line up and the fitting slips into the bracket properly so that the clip groove is exposed, the clip just slides right back into it, as easy as it came out if not easier.

A little wire brush work might help you see what you're working with a little better.

 

Thanks, well the clip is ****ed now, anyway. I will turn the wheels and check though, before I go driving again.

 

A new clip is just a couple bucks, you really need to replace it. Otherwise, the hose will eventually be worn thru by the bracket. It will inevitably burst.

 

Il have to go to autozone or somewhere tomorrow and see if they have one like it.

On another topic - and maybe this should be in detailing but i will ask here first:

I was following the haynes manual, and it said to pump the brakes 3 times to set the new pads. Well, I didnt realize that you needed to put the cap back on the resivoir first. A huge geyser came out, and softened up all the paint on the inside of the hood, strut tower, and where the rear hood seal goes. I managed to wash most of the fluid off the exterior of the car before damage occured.

However, I got what looks like 3 or 4 big runs of brake fluid down the driver side fender, too. I guess I didnt notice it last night. This morning, it was completely apparant from half way across the yard! So, what I am asking, is there any way to like buff out or something damage from brake fluid?? I am like sooooo pissed at myself, because before yesterday the factory paint was exceptionally mint on my car. I washed it up and it looked almost new again. Now, it's an eyesore.

 

omg....man that was a BIG oops! Your not getting your paint back, brake fluid stains right through it. Your cars paint was like mint...not anymore. At least try a strong cleaner with microfibers and then give it a good buff, you can only try though...if it stay like that overnight most likely your doomed.

You probably sucked air back into the master cylinder in which case you need to bleed the brakes if they feel squishy. NEVER press the pedal with the cap open which you now know!

 

Thanks for the detailed story on packing the wheel bearings, it was a bit long winded but at least your honest about what you were doing! I will be doing mine in a week and this was a good primer.