Brakes Looking to upgrade or get the most out of what you have stock? All brake discussions go here!

If you are considering a 1LE or Baer Brake Upgrade...Call Guldstrand

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Old 03-06-2001, 12:57 PM
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Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 383 Megasquirt
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 7.625
If you are considering a 1LE or Baer Brake Upgrade...Call Guldstrand

If any of you guys are like me you're probably dissapointed with the performance of your stock 10.5 inch 1 piston iron caliper front brakes. There have always been two options for an upgrade for our cars.

1. Purchase the 12" or 13" brake system from Baer Brakes for about $1300.

2. Piece together a 1LE brake system from GM and various auto parts stores. The 1LE brakes use a 12" rotor and a PBR two piston aluminum caliper. This option is more expensive than the Baer brakes because of the high cost of the new spindles that are required. The new spindles are about $300 each.

The reason I've brought this subject up is because of a company called Guldstrand Engineering. What Guldstrand makes is a adaptor bracket that allows you to use your stock spindle for the 1LE brakes. This saves you about $500 off of the 1LE system, which makes it considerably less than the Baer system.

The problem right now is that Guldstrand doesn't have enough orders right now to justify making the brackets. If Guldstrand makes the brackets, it's possible to put together a 1LE brake system for anywhere between $600 - $800.

Here's how it comes together.

-Guldstrand Brackets= $100
-1LE Calipers from Autozone=$135 (with core charges)
-1LE Caliper Brackets GM= $130
-1LE Rotors from Autozone= $140 pair
-Brake Pads= $50-$60
-Stainless Steel Lines= $75-$95
-Depending on what year car you have you might need a different mastercylinder and proportioning valve.

If you're interested in this, call Guldstrand and put in an order for their brackets. They're around a $100 for the pair. I've already got my order in.

Contact David Tilitson at 818-558-1499.
Guldstrand is in California.


If you have any questions, email me at tomcolt@core.com




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Old 03-06-2001, 02:29 PM
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Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
I'm interested, but this years upgrade is a T56 transmission, and either late this year or next year is the 1LE brake upgrade. How long do you think we have to put in an order for these brackets?

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Old 03-06-2001, 02:52 PM
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Or you can order GM part number 18016034 (2 reqd.) They are the same thing as the Guldstrand brackets, and are $54.00 ea. at GMPartsdirect.com. Thats what I did for my 1LE front upgrade. I'm in the process of tearing the car apart for alot of work, and will be documenting the 1LE upgrade.





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Old 03-06-2001, 03:48 PM
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Can someone post pictures of the Gulstrand brackets and explain what the need is for BOTH the Gulstrand brackets and the "1LE Caliper Brackets GM" as listed in the parts listing from the first post.

It seems like people are saying GM brackets number 18016034 are the SAME thing as the Gulstrand peices and I think these are what were previously referenced as "1LE Caliper Brackets GM".

Stock spindles and 1LE spindles are the same basic design. All the hole positions and mounting points are the same, the only difference is the 1LE versions have the ears cut off.

-Matt
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Old 03-06-2001, 04:16 PM
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Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 383 Megasquirt
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 7.625
JasonM91Z, I had no idea you could get the brackets from GM. Do they look like the bracket in the picture below?? Do the brackets come with hardware?? I've never dealt with GMPartsDirect.com before. Do they have a phone # so I can talk to a person?? How was your experience with them Jason??


Matt_91RSTPI, here is a picture to help you visualize what's going on. The 1LE caliper brackets are NOT the same as the Guldstrand brackets. The Guldstrand bracket mounts to the spindle, the GM caliper bracket mounts to the Guld. bracket, and the caliper itself mounts to the GM bracket. Picture the GM caliper bracket as being the carrier for the caliper itself.



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Old 03-06-2001, 05:41 PM
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Tom, heres a pic of the GM PN 18016034 caliper mounting plate, which the caliper bracket bolts to. You can also see my caliper and rotor in the back, as well as an aluminum driveshaft, so excuse the clutter in the pic.



The hardware wasn't included with the brackets. You'll need four each of the following:

-10268875 (washers for caliper plate to caliper bracket bolts)
-11508133 (bolts for caliper plate to caliper bracket)
-14084051 (bolts for caliper plate to spindle)

The two brake dust shield bolt holes on the spindle have to be drilled and tapped to 12mm x 1.75 pitch, and the stock caliper ears cut off to accomodate the rotor and caliper of the 1LE brakes. Hope I could help!


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Old 03-06-2001, 05:57 PM
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Colt,

Thanks for the pic. I believe that is from Bill Fong's installation isn't it?

The bracket in the picture you posted appears to be exactly the same as the GM mounting bracket in the picture Jason posted. Is it the Gulstrand bracket?

I know the bracket that appears in both of those pictures is what bolts to the spindle with it's two outermost holes. The two inner holes are then used to mount the caliper. So where does the "1LE caliper bracket GM" come in? I can't envision where it is needed. Where does it attatch? Do you have a picture of that?

BTW, there is a writeup with pictures of an installation of the Next Gen/ SS Brakes 1LE kit in the current issue of Popular Hot Rodding (The Viper issue). They also appear to use the GM mounting plates by themselves

-Matt

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Old 03-06-2001, 06:29 PM
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Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 383 Megasquirt
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 7.625
Wow Jason, all this information is a big help to me!

Let me run down my part list with you. Tell me if I've left anything out.

-18016034 Qty.2 1LE Spindle Adaptor Brackets
-10132829 Qty.1 Caliper Carrier Bracket Left
-10132830 Qty.1 Caliper Carrier Bracket Right
-10268875 Qty.4 Washers
-11508133 Qty.4 Bolts
-14084051 Qty.4 Bolts

I already have the calipers themselves.

Do we need bolts to support the brake lines themselves??

What did you do for rotors and pads. What brands did you get, how much money, and where did you get them??

Thanks for all the help.



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Old 03-06-2001, 06:37 PM
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Oh yes, you will need brake hose bolts (banjo bolts) I can't shed any insight on them cause I haven't bought mine yet. I'm pretty sure the stock ones will work, and most parts stores should be able to get them. I think they're 10mm.

As far as the pads go, I have Autospecialty Metal-lux pads, and Autospecialty rotors. I can't tell you how they are yet because I'm doing the swap as we speak, along with a complete front end rebuild with springs, bushings, and steering (including box and pump). As soon as I get it done I will post my results. They're a quality pad, and the rotors are machined nicely too. The pads were $58 for the set. The rotors were about the same price each.

You may also want to get bearings and seals. Inner set 6 (BCA and Timken), Outer set 3. You'll need new hoses too. I used Earls braided hoses (23A190 IIRC). They were $93 per set, which comes w/ 3 rear hoses as well. I got them at summit, but they don't have a listing for them. I just punched it in on their site, and ordered from there.

Good Luck Tom!

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Old 03-06-2001, 06:38 PM
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Matt,

Let me explain. Sorry I don't have any pictures. Ok, so you are familliar with the GM mounting bracket in the picture that Jason posted? We will call that part the spindle adaption piece. Yes, it is the same as the Guldstrand bracket. Part #'s 10132829 and 10132830 are caliper brackets that actually support the calipers themselves. These could also be called caliper carrier brackets. This piece is what guides and locates the caliper around the rotor itself. It's very hard to visualize what I'm talking about. Maybe Jason can take a more descriptive picture for you with his digital camera. It would help sort out all the confusion.



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Old 03-06-2001, 06:39 PM
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I have many pics of the modified spindles,and other stuff. but I don't know how to post them. email me,and I will forward them. Or even better!Tell me how to attach my pics.

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82Z 305 w/comp 270 magnum cam,holly.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp.,IROC swaybar+wonderbar. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also recently obtained a
'69 chevelle SS396 w/Turbo 400,3.31 posi,11.0 to 1, headers,etc. Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad
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Old 03-06-2001, 06:44 PM
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Jason,

Where did you get the Autospeciality stuff from??

Do you have the Summit part number for the Earls brake lines?? Is it EAR28A190?? What is the (23A190 IIRC) that you posted???


Thanks

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Old 03-06-2001, 06:56 PM
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IIRC = if i recall correctly. I went and looked up my Summit reciept, and their part number is EAR-28A190. It was $95.95.

I got my Autospecialty stuff from a local parts store (Brittons Auto Parts in Georgetown, MA). You can find Performance Friction at Autozone, and I think they have good rotors if you opt for their better ones. They used to carry AIMCO's which weren't bad.

That should be it!

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Old 03-06-2001, 07:56 PM
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Jason,

One more question for you. You've been a big help and I appreciate it. Doesn't the caliper assembly have some sort of a pin to hold the caliper in place??? Does that come with the caliper carriers?? Do you know what I'm talking about??

Jason, do you have ICQ it would be great to communicate with you through that????

thanks,


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Old 03-06-2001, 09:18 PM
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Oh yeah, that pin gave me alot of trouble! The initial part number was discontinued and replaced with 10140666, $8.29 each. You might want to order 4 for future brake jobs. You'll need the "E" clip that goes with them, to retain them in the caliper bracket. I don't have a GM part number, but Wagner makes them also, and they have 2 part numbers on the same hardware box they came in: F46998S/H1175.

Now I have a ? for you. How do I get ICQ? I don't have it but have been interested.

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Old 03-06-2001, 09:58 PM
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Car: '86 TransAm WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Custom TH700R4
If I already have 4-wheel discs, do I need to get a new proportioning valve to upgrade to 1LE? I have an 86 WS6
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Old 03-06-2001, 10:09 PM
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Jason, go to this website, follow the directions and download it for free. Then contact me at ICQ# 31227443.

http://web.icq.com/index/0,,clrcv,00.html

SpeedCat, I don't have a good answer for you. If I had to guess I would say you don't need a new master cylinder.

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Old 03-06-2001, 10:42 PM
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Matt, here are two pictures to help you. The first one is a picture of the spindle adaption bracket, the same piece Guldstrand makes. This bolts onto the spindle. The second picture is the caliper carrier bracket, this bolts onto the spindle adaption bracket. Then the caliper itself fits into that bracket you see in the second picture. In the second picture you are actually looking at the back of the spindle. The side that faces the inside of the car. The brake rotor itself would be on the side that is facing the table. Whoops I almost forgot, these pictures are courtesy of AndyZ28. Thanks Andy!





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Tom Milmont
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[This message has been edited by Colt (edited March 06, 2001).]

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Old 03-07-2001, 10:03 AM
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Colt,

Thank you. I see now. Most of the pictures I have seen of installations have the caliper carrier bracket already attatched to the PBR caliper so I thought it came that way. Now I understand how the caliper is actually bare and the carrier bracket holds it.

This is great, now all we need to do is come up with an updated/revised parts list compared to the one at: http://www.isthq.com/%7Edan/1LEbrake.html so others can piece this together for a good saving over the already available kits.

-Matt
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Old 03-07-2001, 11:03 AM
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Here's a wild question- wouldn't junkyard spindles from a 1LE car do the job? Granted, they'd be one hell of a hard find, but I'm just curious.


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Old 03-07-2001, 01:44 PM
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Sure, that would work, but as you said, they would be one heck of a find. Besides. the ONLY differences are that the 1LE spindles have the ears cut off and the dust shield holes are larger for the caliper mounting plate. Both of these can be done to ANY stock spindle.

-Matt
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Old 03-07-2001, 04:35 PM
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I agree Matt. We will need to come up with a consise and up to date parts list for everything needed to complete the installation. When I do this upgrade I plan to take a bunch of pictures with my digital camera so I can share them with you guys.

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Old 03-07-2001, 08:59 PM
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I already have part#s photos etc. I just need the time to put it out to you guys. My total inverstment was $614.00> Including a new (larger) master cyl,which is required,and a new proportioning valve.Also required. I sure beats $1000-$1300.

------------------
82Z 305 w/comp 270 magnum cam,holly.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp.,IROC swaybar+wonderbar. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also recently obtained a
'69 chevelle SS396 w/Turbo 400,3.31 posi,11.0 to 1, headers,etc. Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad

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Old 03-07-2001, 09:33 PM
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Axle/Gears: 7.625
Here's some more pictures of the modified spindles ready to accept the spindle adaptor brackets. These are also from AndyZ28.







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Old 03-08-2001, 10:47 AM
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Andy,

I'll keep an eye out for your post. You certainly have some very helpful pictures and with a part number list it will be just what I'm looking for. Your cost is exactly what I was shooting for.

Thanks,
Matt
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Old 03-08-2001, 06:18 PM
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
OK! here goes. these are all the part#s and prices that I used on my 1LE front brake upgrade.
2ea GM# 18016034 bracket$67.44X2=$134.88
1ea GM# 10132829 plate (left) $70.13
1ea GM# 10132830 plate (right)$70.13
1ea GM# 18032328 hose (left) $14.86
1ea GM$ 18032329 hose (right)$14.86
1ea VIPAR# 40-4355 caliper assy loaded (W/pads) $66.18 yes! it's not a typo
1ea VIRAR# 40-4356 caliper assy loaded (w/pads) $66.18
2ea VIPAR# X50712 rotors $52.71 X2=$105.42
1ea GM# 14089496 proportioning valve $62.20
1EA ADVANCE AUTO PARTS master cyl for 4wheel disc brakes('88 Camaro) $30.00 w/core
So let's see now! Thats a total of $634.84. Not too bad. The spindle modification was really quite easy. So that alone saved a ton of $$$. How I got the "loaded" calipers for only $66.18 ea. is a mystery to me. And the pads were "EE" brake friction coded as well. The outer wheel bearings are larger on the 1LE rotors.So I aquierd them for work at no cost.As it happens these TIMKIN bearing at one time were used on our old trucks.But now obsolete.
COLT,I have a very helpful photo if you can help me out again? Thanx,ANDYZ28

------------------
82Z 305 w/comp 270 magnum cam,holly.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp.,IROC swaybar+wonderbar. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also recently obtained a
'69 chevelle SS396 w/Turbo 400,3.31 posi,11.0 to 1, headers,etc. Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad
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Old 03-08-2001, 07:41 PM
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What about hardware Andy, you don't have anything on the list about that. The bolts and nuts that hold all the brackets together. If you don't have part numbers do you know the sizes???

I'll have those new photo's up shortly.

Thanks


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Old 03-08-2001, 08:03 PM
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Here's some more pictures that AndyZ28 sent me.


NOTICE THAT EACH BOLT HOLE IS SURROUNDED BY 6 TINY PROJECTIONS.THIS IS THE SIDE THAT ATTACHES TO THE SPINDLE,AND THE CALIPER PLATE (THE THING THE CALIPER RIDES IN) ATTACHES TO. THE ENTIRE SURFACE ON THIS SIDE HAS A VERY ROUGH TEXTURE. THESE THINGS COMBINE TO ENSURE THAT THEIR IS NO MOVEMENT WHATSOEVER.


''THIS IS A GOOD PHOTO OF THE "BRACKET" ATTACHED TO THE LEFT SPINDLE.AND THE "PLATE" ATTACHED TO THE "BRACKET".WHY GM CALLS IT A PLATE IS A MYSTERY.ALSO NOTE THE AREAS WHERE CLEARANCE MUST BE OBTAINED WITH THE MODIFIED STOCK SPINDLES


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Tom Milmont
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Old 03-08-2001, 08:31 PM
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
GM calls for 4ea part# 14084051 bolt $3.74ea
4ea part# 14080254 washer $.83ea
4ea part# 18022602 bolt $14.56ea
For a total of $76.52. I figured that would put me over the $700.00 threshold. So being a cheapskate.And working in a large truck repair shop. I improvised. I just looked around,and found them. But I would like to see one of those $14.56 bolts. Just to see why thet are so darned expensive?
I can measure mine (metric) and let you know tomorrow.
If you guys are interested? I also have scanned exploded view images w/annotations.

------------------
82Z 305 w/comp 270 magnum cam,holly.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp.,IROC swaybar+wonderbar. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also recently obtained a
'69 chevelle SS396 w/Turbo 400,3.31 posi,11.0 to 1, headers,etc. Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad
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Old 03-08-2001, 10:52 PM
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
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There are also 4 pins and the corresponding clips required. GM p/n 10140666. $9 each. All the parts are avilable from Dal for much cheaper then the regular dealership charges.


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Old 03-08-2001, 11:12 PM
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BREAKING NEWS!!!


I was doing a little brake pad investigation today and found out something interesting. My good friend drives a '97 Ford Mustang Cobra. His Cobra has PBR calipers and 13" rotors stock from the factory. His PBR calipers happen to look exactly like the ones I just bought for my 1LE conversion. So, I took one of his Ford brake pads and fit it into my caliper. It seemed to fit perfectly. I then went down to the local Auto Zone and had the parts guy pull a set of pads for a 1LE and a set of pads for a '97 Mustang Cobra both made by Performance Friction. THE PART NUMBERS WERE THE SAME. THE PADS ARE IDENTICAL. When he buys his pads from Ford, Ford includes new retaining pins with each set. He also gets the pads from Ford for about $52.00 a set using a small discount. As a result, I just ordered two sets of Ford brake pads that include the pins that GM charges extra for at a cost of around $104 dollars. And he has had excellent results racing with these pads. He has done many high speed road course racing events with no brake fade problems.

Cool, isn't it?




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Tom Milmont
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Old 03-08-2001, 11:29 PM
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Colt-You have a ford part number?

Andyz28-Are you sure those are the right part numbers for the bolts? The part number i bought were PN's 10268875, 11508133, and 14084051. (see post https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000574.html) and the most expensive bolt was around $3 and not $14.

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Old 03-09-2001, 04:40 AM
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'm pretty sure. But it's kinda a moot point. As I don't need them. Somebody could buy one,and find out. I'm also concerned about the $9.00 ea pin. My calipers included the pins. Also I believe that the Ford Cobra pads are the same as 1LE on the '94-2000 Mustang Cobra.But that the calipers are different. Although they appear to be identical,the method of brake line attachment is different. Thanx,ANDYZ28
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Old 03-09-2001, 09:58 AM
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Justin, I don't have a Ford part number because I had to order the pads. When I receive the pads, I'll post the part number.

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Tom Milmont
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Old 03-09-2001, 02:41 PM
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ANDYZ28,

You mentioned using VIRAR calipars (w/pads) and rotors. I have not heard of VIRAR. I am curious who sells them or where you purchased them. Thanks.
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Old 03-09-2001, 04:00 PM
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
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I just joined up on this site, and man am I proud to be here. My '88 has brakes so bad that I'm scared to drive it! All this info you guys have provided will help me do the repairs my baby soooo drastically needs. Thanks a whole heck of a lot guys, and thanks for the pics and part numbers.

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Ed Miller
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TPIS Fast Pack,MSD 6AL, Dynomax cat-back so far.

"Do you want to race or don't ya? I want to race." Dale Earnhardt
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Old 03-09-2001, 04:03 PM
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I've got the Ford part number for the brake pads. F5ZZ-2001-A These pads should come with new retaining pins also.

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Tom Milmont
'89 Formula 350
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Old 03-09-2001, 04:04 PM
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Oh yeah, I forgot. Will I need to replace my master cylinder if I already have discs at all 4 corners? Thanks..
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Old 03-09-2001, 05:18 PM
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GREAT info guys!

Hey Justins86bird, Can you give me contact info for Dal, website or phone#
Thanks again
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Old 03-09-2001, 05:28 PM
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EDMILLER,No! you wil not have to replace your master cyl if you already have 4 wheel disc brakes. Thanx,ANDYZ28
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Old 03-09-2001, 05:31 PM
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Stewart Moss, VIPAR has a web site. By the way I live in richmond,VA. I got my calipers from CRW 1-804-743-1011 a local brake distributor. Thanx,ANDYZ28
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Old 03-09-2001, 06:44 PM
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Actually, the 1LE master cylinder is the same as the J50 disc/drum cars. The 4 wheel disc master cylinder is different.

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-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28
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Old 03-09-2001, 06:54 PM
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I might be mistaken. But I believe that the 1LE master cyl is different for 1988. And that would make it different for any earlier retrofit. I know that my 1982 Helms Camaro service manual states "that the 4 wheel brake uses a 1" piston.Disc drum uses a smaller one" Thanx,ANDYZ28

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Old 03-09-2001, 10:02 PM
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Hey Andy, I'm in Richmond as well. If you need a hand with anything let me know. I wanted the Baer 13" but the 1LE swap is looking very attractive. Talk to ya later, Jay http://www.geocities.com/rgades/Formula.html
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Old 03-10-2001, 05:53 AM
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If you do the spindle modification yourself. Then it,s a whole lot cheaper also!
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Old 03-10-2001, 10:43 AM
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I had originally intended a Baer front disc brake upgrade, but now it looks like this modification will give me the same results at about half the price. There has been some very good information posted on this topic which has been very helpful.

I have two questions that I would like comments on.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">From Jason M 91Z posted above on 6 March at 04:41pm:

The two brake dust shield bolt holes on the spindle have to be drilled and tapped to 12mm x 1.75 pitch, and the stock caliper ears cut off to accommodate the rotor and caliper of the 1LE brakes.</font>
I have a 1991 Z28. Last year I removed my dust (splash) shield from the spindle, and recall that there was one or two small bolts (about 8mm or American equivalent) securing it. After reading the above post, I do not understand why the dust shield mounting holes have to be enlarged and tapped. Since the splash shield is mounted independent from the caliper mounting assembly (at least on my ’91), why would these holes need to be enlarged/tapped? If the new mounting bracket (18016034) uses larger bolts (12 x 1.75), then maybe a mistake was made and it should have said “bracket” instead of “dust shield”. I was surprised that there was no other mention of having to enlarge/tap the caliper bracket mounting holes.

My next question is:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">From ANDYZ28 posted above on 8 March at 05:18pm:

The outer wheel bearings are larger on the 1LE rotors.</font>
My concern is that because this modification is putting more weight on the spindle because of the larger 12” disc (rotating mass), GM engineers decided to use a larger outer bearing. Why?

If the only difference were accelerated wear because of a smaller contact area from a smaller bearing, that would be an insignificant problem for me.

If the difference were an increased risk of bearing failure, and the possibility of it destroying the spindle (e.g. having the race rotate in its mount), that would be a significant consideration.

If it was determined that a larger bearing is required, I would imagine that machining the outer area on the spindle to accept the larger bearing/race would be easy fix, and not too expensive, provided there would be enough metal remaining for proper strength.

My gut feeling is that this was done to extend bearing life, which would answer why GM did it - to reduce warranty repairs, and thus save them money. Also, the difference in the two bearing sizes is not great, so the difference in load capacity would not be much either, but then I am not an engineer… Nevertheless, I think that it is a point that should be addressed.

ANDYZ28 - thanks for the information!
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Old 03-10-2001, 01:48 PM
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Stewart Moss, If you will look closely at the very first picture of mine that "Clot" posted for me on this thread. It shows very clearly where the "bracket" attaches to the spindle. The 2 bolts are in the holes that at one time held the dust shield in place.They must be drilled out and tapped to 12mm 1.75.The blind hole must be tapped with a "bottom" tap all the way to the bottom. It is reccamended that you use 1989 or later spindles.Because the area where the "bracket"attaches to is larger,to accomodate the bkacket mounting surface.
On your second question. If you can reflect on GM's original thinking on the 1LE. It was to be strictly a race car. Thay had no idea that it would ever leave the dealers, and actually be a daily driver. With that in mind,outer wheel bearing size was increaced to sustain racing stresses.Not drag racing mind you. But road course stuff. Once you see the bearing installed,you will agree that the original wheel bearing (just like brakes) was way too small.
I am sure that I do not know "all their is to know" about the 1LE brake retrofit. But I feel that I know enough that I must pass what litte I do know on to you guys. To help you out,with out going through the hell I did. I have more spindle photos if you want? Perhaps by opening a new thread or something?
Moderator,any thoughts?
Thanx,ANDYZ28
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Old 03-11-2001, 10:17 AM
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ANDYZ28,

You made a good point about why GM may have used larger outer bearings for the 1LE spindle. It sounds logical.

Regarding the dust shield holes having to be enlarged. I remember those holes being in different locations than the holes to hold the new bracket (on my ’91 Z28). Looking at the first image on this thread (posted by Colt on 6 March at 03:16 pm) with the right spindle on the vehicle, I can see a small hole in the 3 o’clock position, immediately in front of the grease seal contact area. The same hole can be seen even better in another image posted by Colt on 7 March at 08:33 pm (the image below the one with the end of the spindle being supported by a little cardboard box). On this left spindle, the small hole is in front (9 o’clock) of the spindle.

I don’t doubt what you say is true. I just have a hard time visualizing it from memory - but that’s my problem. If I wasn’t so lazy, all I’d have to do is remove my rotor and see (it's too cold outside!).

Also, I’m thinking why I couldn’t just drill that blind hold all the way through, and eliminate the need for a bottoming tap.

Your images (via Colt) make the modification a lot easier to understand. I’m surprised that there is not a tech article on it.

Thanks to everyone for helping me save ~$600.
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Old 03-11-2001, 02:31 PM
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I'm going to help Andy with his project next Sat. We will documenting everything and hopefully we come up with an article for everyone interested. Jay
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Old 03-11-2001, 02:46 PM
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I'm going to help Andy with his project next Sat. We will documenting everything and hopefully we come up with an article for everyone interested. Jay
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Quick Reply: If you are considering a 1LE or Baer Brake Upgrade...Call Guldstrand



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