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Brake Snaps

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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 01:50 PM
  #1  
GreenCamaro13's Avatar
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From: IDAHO
Car: 89 rs
Engine: 2.8 v6
Transmission: M/t
Axle/Gears: 5 Speed Manual
Brake Snaps

Ok so this has happened to me about 4 times.

im driving, i pull the car into my driveway. put it in neutral. and then when u pull the hand break it sounds like it snaps and goes completely off so i have to release it and pull it back out and then it gets grip.

also one time i pulled the brake and it didnt snap but it didnt engage and the car started to go back,

what do i need to replace to get it to work, i dont want go outside a store and see my car crashed into a tree or car due to the brake disengaging.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 02:02 PM
  #2  
Maverick H1L's Avatar
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: Brake Snaps

I'd start with new cables, all 3 of them.

And park in Reverse to make sure the car isn't going to roll if the brake fails.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #3  
GreenCamaro13's Avatar
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From: IDAHO
Car: 89 rs
Engine: 2.8 v6
Transmission: M/t
Axle/Gears: 5 Speed Manual
Re: Brake Snaps

k, estimate how much the cables cost? and how to do it?
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 06:50 PM
  #4  
Maverick H1L's Avatar
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: Brake Snaps

I think the cables would probably run between $80 and 100. Easiest thing to do is to loosen the adjuster nut on top of the driveshaft (you're going to NEED to raise the rear of the car as you WILL need to get the back wheels off, so I'd pull the driveshaft to make it easier to get at the adjuster nut on the front cable), pull the rear cable ends out of the balancer bracket, remove the cable from the lever first, and then pull the rear wheels and drums and the cables from the backing plates. Use a 1/2 inch box wrench (the closed-in kind) around the retainers for the cables on the backing plates to close the retaining tangs and then pull the retainers out of the backing plates. The reason to remove the cables from the adjuster first is to allow slack in the rear cables to make it easier to disengage the park brake levers from the ends of the cables in the rear brakes. I've done it the other way, removing the cable from the rear brake lever without backing off the adjuster or removing the front of the cables, it's not easy to put the cable back onto the lever without a special tool... And inspect EVERYTHING while you're under there.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 09:21 PM
  #5  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: Brake Snaps

As I recall the 90+ parking brake doesn't have the adjuster nut. I swapped an earlier parking brake lever when I swapped a 88 rear end into my 90 so I could adjust the cable tension.

Lon
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:47 PM
  #6  
Maverick H1L's Avatar
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: Brake Snaps

Originally Posted by lonsal
As I recall the 90+ parking brake doesn't have the adjuster nut. I swapped an earlier parking brake lever when I swapped a 88 rear end into my 90 so I could adjust the cable tension.

Lon
I'll check my 92 FSM, but I will say that there HAS to be an adjustment somewhere in the system to take up for cable stretch and other wear... Otherwise the system would be rendered useless and not meet FMVSS standards...
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:57 PM
  #7  
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1989 Formula, 1988 Camaro
Engine: Vortec 350 TPI, 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.43 Posi, 3.43 Open
Re: Brake Snaps

cables shouldnt be 80-100!!! i bought 2 they were $20 a piece at napa, and i doubt its the cables if you can disengage the parking brake and re-engage it because once the cable snaps its done, i think it would be the actual lever that you pull up on, maybe the teeth arent locking or catching, ALSO possibly take a look inside the drum to make sure the parking brake cable also is attached with a small washer type of hold on and not slipping and re-hooking when you put the lever back down
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 06:54 AM
  #8  
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Brake Snaps

Originally Posted by Maverick H1L
I'll check my 92 FSM, but I will say that there HAS to be an adjustment somewhere in the system to take up for cable stretch and other wear... Otherwise the system would be rendered useless and not meet FMVSS standards...
As I recall, the later models are supposed to be self-adjusting.

JamesC
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