mostly a street car used on evenings and weekends. my braking requirements are simple. I want this car to preform better than stock. stopping distance petal feel would be a bonus!

just wrapping up my b&m shifter install and tested the shifter and electrical. noticed I have no rear brakes.

1. If I plan to keep my 16x8 gta wheels what are my options for rear brakes. I'm thinking I might just buy new/ remanufactured calipers and rotors. any other options I need to explore?

2. LS1 front brakes is looking like the best option. looks like bigbrakeupgrade.com has what I need with no need to piece everything together and eat up my valuable time. How is the price compared to piecing it together?

3. whos using this combo and what are the performance results and experience.

4. might upgrade the prop valve spring too!

 

I swapped rear PBR's off of a 96 firebird onto my rear axle, and plan on going with the LS1 fronts (I finally have all of the parts I need). I believe the rear PBR's are the same on the 91 and 96. The LS rears have a 1.5 inch piston, same as the LT brakes, and I am pretty sure the PBR's you have are the same (if you have rear disc, not drum). The LS rotor is slightly larger diameter than the LT, but the LS has additional mods required for the park brake cable to work.

Good call on the prop valve spring. If I had your system, I would keep the rears and get front LS brakes, and swap out a few springs in the prop valve until you have the right performance.

 

im not 100% sure my rear brakes need to be replaced. the brake lines could be clogged. the car has been sitting a lot more that driven. about 8 years ago i replaced the rear calipers.

whats the best way to drain or flush the brakes. i might be able to get a helper to bleed otherwise its a one man show. the fluid must be old by now.

 

i prefer a vacumn bleeder that hooks to the bleeder screws.

 

Watched a few vids on vacuum bleeding. I'm sold! Great method
Thanks

 

I would get rear discs from a 4th gen car too. It would be an affordable upgrade.

 

Stock rear brakes on an '89 and up car is going to be 11.6" discs. I wouldn't bother changing these to something else.

New pads, new rotors (if needed), Goodrich stainless brake lines, and the prop valve spring (cheap).

 

Exactly!!!

 

Is there any issues with stock brake line location at master being in close proximity to headers? I know that brakes by nature are subject to extreme temps.

 

Car is on jack stands with the wheels off. I decided to test my rear brakes with the car in gear. First off brakes don't hold the wheels at idle. Slow them down but won't stop. I have new calipers on the way along with pads and reworked rotors.

Another concern I have is that the rear seems to have a slight wobble. Is there any amount of acceptable movement?

 

rotor wrapped ? maybe stuck calipers ? air in the lines? how old is the brake fluid? Did you get the front ls set up from Scott at Bigbrakeupgrade.com ?

 

Is it possible to machine warped rotors and not know if the rotor is warped?
The fluid in the rear lines has been flushed from the master down to the existing old calipers.... (I'm still waiting on the new parts, doing as much work with what I have at present time). Brake fluid was old and dirty btw. I'm replacing the rear with new calipers to be safe.
Next winter ill be doing the ls1 front brake swap (big brakes)! Front still works fine. Fluid will be flushed in the next few days.