So I have been cruising the threads on here, and they have been most helpful in giving me information about swapping brakes on a third gen Camaro. I have a few questions still, even after checking the stickies and other posts. I am hoping you, the members, can clear a few things up for me.

First off, I have a 1987 Camaro Z28, 305TPI, 10 bolt rear with drum brakes. I am looking to swap in a 10 bolt disc rear from a 1988 Camaro. HawksThirdGen will be supplying the rear. The question I have is will my hardlines from the front to rear need to be replaced, modified, ect. for the disc rear?

 

If you have not seen this it has a lot of information =

https://www.thirdgen.org/brakes2

There are many good reasons to switch/build a different rear end including posi unit and a decent gear ratio to go along with the rotors.
Depending on which way you go it can get expensive.

 

Semper Fi, Ron. I am a former Marine as well. Thanks for getting back to me on this. I checked the link you posted, and I have read that before. It covers mainly getting the 1LE package brakes.

What I am looking to do is a really a simple swap in. Everything I have read about upgrading to discs has stated that swapping in a factory rear with discs is the easiest option and requires the least amount of modification. What everything I have read is missing is if the hard lines from master cylinder/proportioning valve need to be modified or replaced. I did read that '87 drums has a hardline running to at least one of the wheel cylinders. I guess that might be my answer then.

 

There is a single 6mm hard line from the combo valve to a location just in front of the axle, then a flex line to the axle that tee's off to each caliper. IIRC the hard line is the same for disc or drum

 

Thank you, squirted1. This is just the info I was looking for. Appreciate it.

 

dont forget the different master/prop valve for disk brakes

 

Thanks 86iroct5. I was already budgeting for both of those. I am looking at doing new calipers in the front, a full rear assembly swap from a 1988 TA, and the SS braided flex lines. To go along with this, I will be doing the new master cylinder and proportioning valve. I will also be rebuilding the '88 rear with new bearings, seals, rotors, and possibly upgrading the posi unit and gears. The rear I am getting has 3.23 gears and the OEM posi. I am debating on going to the 3.73.

 

That's not an upgrade; just a repair. Costs all of about $30. Those cost less than a half-decent pad set; oughtta be replaced every time you do em.

BAD idea if you want to improve your brakes. That will have the GARBAGE Saginaw calipers on it. Prolly won't work even to the limited extent your drums do, let alone any better. Get a 89-up instead, with the aluminum PBR calipers. In any case, DO NOT spend any money on that 88 core; it's FAR FROM the ideal core to sink cash into. Doesn't matter how much you spend on it, short of throwing away EVERY SINGLE moving part on it, including the brakes, and upgrading EVERY SINGLE ONE. Gears, carrier, axles, brakes, as well as all the "soft" maintenance parts like bearings, seals & the brake wear parts (pads, calipers, rotors); in the end, you'll still have an inferior product. Not the outcome to be sought after.

 

Ouch Sofa.......

That's hurts,

but is true when comparing even a "built" 10 bolt to the 9" or 12 bolt.

And here's why.

This is a 10 bolt ,7.5" gear set compared to the "Monster" 9".




( I believe a "built" 10 Bolt has its place, and that place is on my car. It is totally sufficient for my application.)