When using the steel hubs from flyinbye, do you have to do a brake conversion or will the stock front disc brakes work with just new rotors?

 

The steel hubs are cut down stock rotor/hub assemblies. The rotor is not removable from the hub. Yuri use any of the aftermarekt hubs you have to do a brake conversion.

 

So with the steel hubs I just need a rotor that has no studs, but stock diameter and thickness? Would doing that make the rotor stick out a little?

 

why would you use the hubs that allow you to use anything up to and including the 15" carbon ceramic brakes from the new Z/28 on your car and then just use stock size 10.5" rotors?

the whole point of the hubs is to allow you to upgrade to a bigger rotor and matching caliper once you modify the spindle and either make or buy a caliper mounting bracket to mount the matching caliper. if you just want stock replacement rotors, then just buy the $35 stock replacement rotors.

 

LONGER STUDS....that's why. I need longer studs and I'm not going to drill out old studs and pull new ones through everytime I do brakes.

 

They make longer studs for the stock rotor, no drilling.
Or if its too much of a problem to change studs every 100k miles then you need to find a 10.5" rotor with about . 25 more setback than stock. Good luck with that one, I have never seems anything close.

 

you can get longer studs from any parts store... it's a Dorman part number- 310-323- and you can get them for under a couple bucks each..

they look like this when installed into the rotors that i made into hubs for my LS1 brake swap:



if you are eating up rotors fast enough to be replacing them every time you do a brake job, then you must be doing some serious road racing with some race compound pads or something, in which case you should look into upgrading the brakes to something bigger that will take more abuse.. but if you insist on sticking with the stock size brakes, the studs are easily removed from the old rotor with a good manly hit from a hammer, and installed into the new rotor with a standard lug nut flipped over so the flat side is against the machined face and just tighten it down to pull the stud in place.

 

I have ARP studs still packaged...would making hubs like yours with arp studs work? After nocking out the studs from a new rotor and putting that onto the hub....

Does the hub plus rotor make it too thick to line up with the caliper?

 

Summit has them also..

 

Again, I already have studs...

 

which rotor? if you can find a 10.5" slip on rotor that is the same thickness as the stock one and is offset back far enough to put the disc back where the stock one was, then yes, it will line up..

but i don't know if such a rotor exists- the 93-97 F bodies upgraded to 11" brakes with the slip on rotor, but they are definitely not offset back far enough to use with the stock caliper in the stock location on an 82-92 car.

since you are dead set on using the stock caliper in the stock location for whatever reason, you are stuck with stock rotors, and if you chew one up you just pound your longer studs out of the old one and put them in the new one.. unless you can find an application with a 10.5" slip on rotor that fits your needs, which i don't think exists.