I just received my new brake line kit from classic tube and one of the master cylinder lines looks like the bend wasn't done properly. The picture is of them side by side new and old. Should i talk to classic tube and get them to send a replacement or is the bend fine?

 

I don't believe the slight restriction will hamper braking. Not much volume needed to apply the brakes.

 

That would bother me also. But it will work.
Stainless is much harder to bend, especially into a tight radius.
Maybe if they heated it before bending. But I'm sure it is done
by a computerized bender, so it's not like they can, or will, stop the production line
just to heat 1 bend for you.

 

Sounds like I shouldn't worry about it based on your responses. I don't know enough about hydraulics to know what affects it would have on the quality of breaking. After spending the $200 to get stainless brake lines I was just surprised to see the bend narrow that much.

 

I've bent a few myself before, and have noticed that sometimes if it's a tight bend it'll do that. When it just barely starts to crimp, it'll also widen. So....at first the shape may oval, but the cross sectional area won't be reduced, -or not at least not as much as it might LOOK like. ....of course, if you keep bending, yeah....you'll ultimately crimp it shut, or at least severely limit flow. In your case, I wouldn't worry about function. Is there an issue with the cost, and quality/finish....ehhh....maybe. I can't speak as to what's acceptable. -but you should be fine.

 

Email them with this photo just to see what there reaction is.

Personally I would want a different one.
Have them look at it closely before they box it this time.

 

 

Looks about like a sharp bend in the repro lines I used on my Mustang. I'd imagine they make bends like that all the time. While personally I find it annoying, marginal quality at a premium price seems to be the name of the aftermarket game.

 

The bend radius is way too tight. I would complain and expect more from a manufactured part.

 

I sent them an email this morning. They responded quickly and said that that piece shouldn't have made it out of the door. They said they would get back to me about a replacement.

 

Good.

 

Looks like I stand corrected.

 

New line replacement for that part will be here tomorrow. Hoping to use the long weekend to get them all mounted up and running. Do any of you guys know if i will need to do anything extensive, like dropping the gas tank, to mount all the lines properly? I didn't see any posts on here about needing to. I may just create a new post looking for tips.

 

I can tell you that I like to use "Flare Nut" Wrenches on lines like those.

Your new ones are most likely much stronger than typical brass fittings but still.

This is the set I have.
Home Depot's "Husky Brand" is a well made tool at a really nice price.
= http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-SAE...W6PC/203541511

 

Don't forget to put a little Anti Seize on the treads, for the next guy.

 

Not just no, but hell no. Brake fittings go on dry. Don't risk contaminating the fluid.

 

The brake line to the rear follows the fuel lines, but it breaks off from the rest before the rubber lines to the tank. I want to say the brake line is held by it's own hook on the clips that route the fuel lines, so the brake line can be serviced by itself.

 

That is correct. It is the same clip that holds brake line and fuel line. The fuel lines are held inside a full loop, and the brake line is held by a 3/4 loop such that you can press the brake line in and out without disturbing the fuel lines. The brake flex line that drops to axle is held in place by a very sturdy bracket that is attached to the body. No problem reaching that either.

 

I also usually put them on dry, cleaning up the threads with a wire wheel if they're old and crusty. The exception was one of the nuts to the old prop valve, which was stuck in there so good that I rounded it and had to smash vice grips on it to get it out. Filed the nut back into a hex the next size down but put a small amount of anti-sieze on it so I can get it out next time. Would have been nice to have a new nut but just doesn't work out that way sometimes .

 

Normally I'd agree but on stainless stuff, esp going in aluminum, I always put a very small dab on the nut threads and even a little between the nut and tube.

 

Between the nut and tube is probably the most important. That is where crap collects and seizes the nut to the tube.