383backinblack

Has anyone used this kit (or a similar one)? Seriously considering these soon (I have a Moser 12 bolt with 9" housing ends).

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...o=140-11404-DR

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I went with a floating caliper - less hassles. Wilwood D154.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-truetrac.html

383backinblack

I looked at those as well, but what hassle do you speak of?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Application - I want articulation for GT and road racing. This can contribute to pad knock, and brake hop can potentially by bad for fixed (not that I want it). I know of guys who bent their brackets with a fixed caliper on the rear (RR & AX).
If you're in drag, you could probably get away with fixed - not as much abuse while brakes applied in straight line.
Some old guy in Beach Park, IL talked me out of the fixed calipers .

383backinblack

Gotcha ... this car is going in a straight line and cruising, so it should be ok. It'd be like a dumptruck chasing a Ferrari in a road race.

Beater79TA

You should really try chasing a Ferrari sometime. They get emotional when they can't shake you for the entire 20 minute road course session. Most high end import drivers (Porsche, Ferrari, BMW etc) aren't car people and don't know how to drive them that well.

We kept up with a new Ferrari 488 for an entire session in July. Extremely nice car, nice guy driving it, but no real talent at driving. He asked about what we had done to ours that he couldn't shake it. Same story with a lot of the M series BMW and Porsche drivers we encounter at track days. Nice people, nice cars, not that great at driving the car.

But every now and then you get the one that just refuses to believe an American car kept up with them or, god forbid, passed them on track.

The other thing to think about for the rear brakes is if you aren't going to replace the proportioning valve to actually direct fluid to the rear, there isn't a real reason to upgrade the brakes at all. With stock brake biasing, the rears do very little to actually help stop the car so any brake upgrade is wasted without changing the prop valve to allow the upgrade to impact stopping distance. We race our car heavily and run Wilwood 4 pistons on the front with stock brakes on the rear. We go through a set of pads on the front every year and haven't changed the rears in 3 years. This works to your advantage drag racing as it allows the rears to spin for burnouts to warm the tires but it means bigger/upgraded rear brakes are wasted money without a new prop valve to let you use them.

88ricekiller

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88ricekiller

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383backinblack

Awesome! Did you change the proportioning valve?

I've got the BBU front C5/6 conversion now and that's been awesome. My main motivation to do the rears is for e-brakes that actually function

88ricekiller

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88ricekiller

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383backinblack

Ah cool, I had considered going that route, too.

BBU.COM

In a true drag car, you need good rear brakes. The rear tires have so much more contact than the fronts on your typical door car you have to take advantage of that even with the normal weight transfer on decel. I`m not suggesting but merely telling you how I had mine set up. Wilwood 4 piston in the rear on a moser 9 inch with them wide open to the master on 29.5 10.5W`s, the front tires were moroso DS2 that widened when braking to 8 inch from the normal 4-5 inches of contact, w/ aerospace 4 piston 10.5 set up. I had to limit the front brakes with an adjustable prop valve to keep them out of lock up and rely on the rears for the meat and potatoes of the stopping power....I hated packing the chute. Once this was set up the brakes could be locked up- but all four at once, never just one axle so upon a true panic brake the car stayed inline.