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I'm planning on redoing the rear brakes. Looking on Rockauto there are many options for both the pads and drums. Anybody have suggestions on which parts to select?
Even the GM stuff (and many others) can be chinese or another 3rd world country
mfrd. and packed in a USA box!
Went thru this trying to get front bearings for my 72 Pontiac.
NDK stamped/GM boxed and bearing stamped china.
Another stamped USA.
Found US made/stamped wheel cylinders at NAPA for the Pontiac
and the Z-28.
This was a couple years back so who knows whats quality or US/Can. made.
Even the GM stuff (and many others) can be chinese or another 3rd world country
mfrd. and packed in a USA box!
Went thru this trying to get front bearings for my 72 Pontiac.
NDK stamped/GM boxed and bearing stamped china.
Another stamped USA.
Found US made/stamped wheel cylinders at NAPA for the Pontiac
and the Z-28.
This was a couple years back so who knows whats quality or US/Can. made.
Yeah, tell me about it. Was doing some research on a few ignition items that were supposed to be USA made but when they showed up it was China. We shall see how long they last.
Aluminum drums are available. My 1984 Z came with aluminum drums from new. I don't know if better than iron. Possibly cool quicker. Lighter. Could also be some disadvantages, but I have not researched.
Aluminum drums are available. My 1984 Z came with aluminum drums from new. I don't know if better than iron. Possibly cool quicker. Lighter. Could also be some disadvantages, but I have not researched.
The aluminum drums are really nice but the cost is definitely up there. Dont want to spend too much money lol.
Originally Posted by T.L.
I learned the hard way about skimping on shoes/pads. Get the best available.
a
Absolutely except in this case what is the best available. Some times just because there is a higher cost doesn't necessarily mean they are better.
Took a look at those and considering them but asking myself if I really need them. With 170 hp (and no more in the horizon) I don't have too much to slow down haha!
Took a look at those and considering them but asking myself if I really need them. With 170 hp (and no more in the horizon) I don't have too much to slow down haha!
So when you're cruising down the highway and some moron decides to slam on his breaks, does physics give a crap about how much horsepower your car is pumping out? Nope. It pretty much only cares about how fast you are going and how much your car weighs.
A good brake and suspension setup pays more dividends in everyday driving than people typically think about. I put those shoes inside the drums of my mostly stock '92 with a 305. Not for wow factor, but because the brakes on these cars are very outdated and can use every upgrade we can afford.
So when you're cruising down the highway and some moron decides to slam on his breaks, does physics give a crap about how much horsepower your car is pumping out? Nope. It pretty much only cares about how fast you are going and how much your car weighs.
A good brake and suspension setup pays more dividends in everyday driving than people typically think about. I put those shoes inside the drums of my mostly stock '92 with a 305. Not for wow factor, but because the brakes on these cars are very outdated and can use every upgrade we can afford.
I agree with you, the stock brakes really aren't the best and can use upgrades.
Are those shoes going to really make that much of a difference when jackass slams his brakes? Probably not that much. The upgraded stock setup in my mint 5.0 LX coupe didn't do **** when I rearranged her front sheetmetal in a nasty wreck. If I had the Cobra brakes my current car has I would have probably been able to rebuild. Oh well.
Maybe I'm wrong, Idk. You're running those shoes. How do they feel?
Is this a daily driver, auto cross, road race, etc?
Tires, wheels, and pads/shoes are the most important part of any brake system.
You could have the biggest rotor, 6 piston, 4 wheel disc brake system with low performance tires, and you will not stop significantly better if that tire combo was on a stock brake system.
Lighter wheels will help you stop better. Add a performance tires and this will help even a stock brake setup. Lighter wheel tire setup will also help acceleration and gas mileage.
Choose the pad for its intended purpose. A quality street pad (semi metallic or organic), for a daily driver, is all you should need. There are heat limitations to a street pad, so I wouldn't auto cross or road race them. If auto x or road racing, I would always switch out the pads for the event with a pad with a higher heat range, but I would NOT use these pads on the street. A lower heat range pad will have great initial bite. I higher heat pad will have a much lower initial bite and will need some heat before they start work well.
Determine what your brakes are going to be used for and work towards that.
If you want to save money, use your stock drums unless they are highly scored or warped. An aluminum drum setup is the lightest and cheapest upgrade for the rear.
Wheel cylinders are pretty cheap, even for the more expensive name brand ones. Only real wear item is the seals and I'm sure there is not a big price difference between a high quality seal and a low quality seal. DO NOT buy clearance items from rockauto, its not worth the risk. There is a reason they are on clearance and its most likely (I'm guessing here) from getting significant returns.
Is this a daily driver, auto cross, road race, etc?
Tires, wheels, and pads/shoes are the most important part of any brake system.
You could have the biggest rotor, 6 piston, 4 wheel disc brake system with low performance tires, and you will not stop significantly better if that tire combo was on a stock brake system.
Lighter wheels will help you stop better. Add a performance tires and this will help even a stock brake setup. Lighter wheel tire setup will also help acceleration and gas mileage.
Choose the pad for its intended purpose. A quality street pad (semi metallic or organic), for a daily driver, is all you should need. There are heat limitations to a street pad, so I wouldn't auto cross or road race them. If auto x or road racing, I would always switch out the pads for the event with a pad with a higher heat range, but I would NOT use these pads on the street. A lower heat range pad will have great initial bite. I higher heat pad will have a much lower initial bite and will need some heat before they start work well.
Determine what your brakes are going to be used for and work towards that.
If you want to save money, use your stock drums unless they are highly scored or warped. An aluminum drum setup is the lightest and cheapest upgrade for the rear.
Wheel cylinders are pretty cheap, even for the more expensive name brand ones. Only real wear item is the seals and I'm sure there is not a big price difference between a high quality seal and a low quality seal. DO NOT buy clearance items from rockauto, its not worth the risk. There is a reason they are on clearance and its most likely (I'm guessing here) from getting significant returns.
This car is simply a street cruiser. I do not race it whatsoever. The most action she sees is highway on ramps haha.
Tires are new Falken Ze950s. A very whatever all season tire. In the next few weeks I'll be installing new stock calipers up front and changing the hoses (rear hose too). Powerstop Z16 pads (ceramic)
I used the powerstop Z23 kit with powder coated calipers, drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic, kevlar pads. Set of Russell SS brake lines. New wheel cylinders and a set of american made brake shoe kit(all springs and clips included)from a local parts store. Not sure of the brand on those but if you stay away from the parts boys the quality should be good. All I can say is WOW. My brakes work great and the car stops like it should, better than ever. The best part is it is all stock fitment stuff so no mods necessary and I got all the parts including the fluid for around $400.
I used the powerstop Z23 kit with powder coated calipers, drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic, kevlar pads. Set of Russell SS brake lines. New wheel cylinders and a set of american made brake shoe kit(all springs and clips included)from a local parts store. Not sure of the brand on those but if you stay away from the parts boys the quality should be good. All I can say is WOW. My brakes work great and the car stops like it should, better than ever. The best part is it is all stock fitment stuff so no mods necessary and I got all the parts including the fluid for around $400.
Good stuff! I'm actually debating if I should do the Russell lines. It's such a while you're there kinda thing but the budget is so tight this year it's crazy.
Good stuff! I'm actually debating if I should do the Russell lines. It's such a while you're there kinda thing but the budget is so tight this year it's crazy.
If the Russell lines are a budget buster I would just do new rubber ones. I am a firm believer that on cars of are age that all the parts that could fail should be replaced if you are already there. If you plan on a caliper replacement you just took 50% of the brake line off already.
If the Russell lines are a budget buster I would just do new rubber ones. I am a firm believer that on cars of are age that all the parts that could fail should be replaced if you are already there. If you plan on a caliper replacement you just took 50% of the brake line off already.
Of course. I already have new rubber ones waiting to go on haha. One of the first things I purchased for this car actually.
04-11-2018, 10:39 AM
