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I have the new Ford ends on a 9 inch. Was going over it last night and the adapter plates they installed from strange let the caliper bolt up but its not centered on the rotor. Caliper adapter basically almost touching the rotor in the inside. Anyone use Flynbyes adapter plates on a 9 inch?
Any pictures of what's going on? I have a moser 9" in my 89 with original pbr calipers. Has 13" baer rotors now
When I had the rear built they installed Strange adapter plates. The calipers mount up but closer inspection last night during a bleeding session I noticed the caliper is not centered on the rotor. Inside of the rotor the caliper is basically touching the rotor. The slimmest feeler gauge I cannot slide in but the other side has about 1/4 inch or more to caliper body. I will get a pic tonight. Having issues getting the rear brakes to bite on the rears. Bleed to many times to count. Fronts are locking up. Wondering if this is causing my issue on the rears.
This is a new rear axle, just built? Not been in operation yet? Its first brake installation?
The left side and right side backing plates("adapter plates") would be the same thickness as each other. So if one pad abutment bracket("caliper adapter") fits over the rotor on one axle, but not on the other axle, then it sounds like there's a condition that's causing one axle to stick out farther than the other axle.
Even if the Strange backing plates turn out to be thicker or thinner than Flynbye's backing plates, you'll probably still have the same problem, maybe not as serious, or maybe worse.
It's common for brake conversion kits to require shims/washers to center the abutment brackets over the rotors. BBU includes washers of various thicknesses with its conversion kits. But in your case, with the inner edge of the rotor touching the inside of the abutment bracket, then you might need a thin spacer between the rotor and the axle hub, to push the rotor outward. Just a typical wheel spacer, but only about 1-to-3mm thick. That's not usually the way a conversion might be in error, but yours would seem to need such an adjustment, providing there's nothing wrong with the installations of the axles, themselves.
This is a new rear axle, just built? Not been in operation yet? Its first brake installation?
The left side and right side backing plates("adapter plates") would be the same thickness as each other. So if one pad abutment bracket("caliper adapter") fits over the rotor on one axle, but not on the other axle, then it sounds like there's a condition that's causing one axle to stick out farther than the other axle.
Even if the Strange backing plates turn out to be thicker or thinner than Flynbye's backing plates, you'll probably still have the same problem, maybe not as serious, or maybe worse.
It's common for brake conversion kits to require shims/washers to center the abutment brackets over the rotors. BBU includes washers of various thicknesses with its conversion kits. But in your case, with the inner edge of the rotor touching the inside of the abutment bracket, then you might need a thin spacer between the rotor and the axle hub, to push the rotor outward. Just a typical wheel spacer, but only about 1-to-3mm thick. That's not usually the way a conversion might be in error, but yours would seem to need such an adjustment, providing there's nothing wrong with the installations of the axles, themselves.
So this will explain. The caliper bracket is not centered on the rotor. In side of caliper is right up against rotor. I have the big new Ford ends which he sells. Im going to take it apart. From what I can tell if I machined some off mounting face it would work. Called Flynbye today with no answer or call back as I left my number and message of interest in the brackets. Bot sides are exact same thing. I would rather machine the bracket but involves removing axel. A shim behind rotor will help me mock it up. I'm having problems getting rear brakes to bite on the calipers in the rear after numerous bleeds. The pad is not at same level as the bracket so it may be the issue it may not. But I'm going to try the shim tonight.
Ah, the fitment is the same on both axles, left and right, each too tight on the inside. I thought you'd said too tight on one axle, but not the other.
Then the backing plates must be too thick. Or if there's a spacer involved with the backing plate, which I don't think there would be with 3rdgen PBR brakes, then it's too thick. So, yes, definitely reach out to Ed, at least, to find out how thick his are. But from what I've read, to reach him would be like a Close Encounter. I guess he sends out orders without delay, though, so it might be quicker to just order them, rather than wait for him to reply.
Ah, the fitment is the same on both axles, left and right, each too tight on the inside. I thought you'd said too tight on one axle, but not the other.
Then the backing plates must be too thick. Or if there's a spacer involved with the backing plate, which I don't think there would be with 3rdgen PBR brakes, then it's too thick. So, yes, definitely reach out to Ed, at least, to find out how thick his are. But from what I've read, to reach him would be like a Close Encounter. I guess he sends out orders without delay, though, so it might be quicker to just order them, rather than wait for him to reply.
I might just have to order them. I mocked up shiming the rotor with washers and it brought both sides in line to where they should be. Probably 1/8 or a tad more. Mine are just Strange adapters. Either way If I do change them I'm not happy to have to take axels out. Plus Flynbys are zinc gold, the strangs ones as weird as it sounds are cnc anodized black to match axel of aluminum or steel. Maybe a call to strange they could maybe mill them down. Hate to just order them and they don't fit. Can't email him either. And he doesn't answer the phone. Dont want to be in a situation like that.
I didn’t get to the point of mounting the brakes because my abutment brackets wouldn’t fit between the rotor and the drum to disc bracket. My choices were to shim the rotor out or machine the mounting surface of the abutment bracket. The shims were of course much easier and reversible. Didn’t want to use washers because I wanted something that would support the full hat surface of the rotor and prevent any wobble/vibration. After a little research, I found these. Brakes work great.
By the way, those are Flynbye brackets. I’ve ordered several different items for several different platforms, all were high quality products. Placed my order and a few weeks later it would show up. No, there’s not any communication or updates, but I was ok with that.
I didn’t get to the point of mounting the brakes because my abutment brackets wouldn’t fit between the rotor and the drum to disc bracket. My choices were to shim the rotor out or machine the mounting surface of the abutment bracket. The shims were of course much easier and reversible. Didn’t want to use washers because I wanted something that would support the full hat surface of the rotor and prevent any wobble/vibration. After a little research, I found these. Brakes work great.
By the way, those are Flynbye brackets. I’ve ordered several different items for several different platforms, all were high quality products. Placed my order and a few weeks later it would show up. No, there’s not any communication or updates, but I was ok with that.
Nice. So even with the brackets you needed the spacer. Do they sell different thickness? Seems we have the exact same issue.
Yes, the shims come in various thicknesses, bolt patterns and hub bores. I believe my issue comes from using a Torsen carrier instead of the earlier style carrier. The Torsen uses a flat puck between the axles versus the round center pin that earlier carriers used. This puck is thinner than the round pin and allowed the axles to push in farther/sit closer together. Absolutely everything was brand new except the housing. All the non factory mixed and matched parts, each having its own tolerance, mounted in a factory housing just came to a head. Easy fix though.
Yes, the shims come in various thicknesses, bolt patterns and hub bores. I believe my issue comes from using a Torsen carrier instead of the earlier style carrier. The Torsen uses a flat puck between the axles versus the round center pin that earlier carriers used. This puck is thinner than the round pin and allowed the axles to push in farther/sit closer together. Absolutely everything was brand new except the housing. All the non factory mixed and matched parts, each having its own tolerance, mounted in a factory housing just came to a head. Easy fix though.
Mine is a 9 inch with an sTrack and strange 35 spline. What a different combo than yours and we are at the exact same spot in the end. Round about the washers I used grade 8 are 3/32 which is a tad over 3mm. The carrier is centered but more so. So I think the 3mm will bring it right inline. Have to just measure the hub bore and see if it will work. Man your a Godsend. Thank you.
