I did a search on this but found nothing like my problem. It may turn out that all I need is a ground loop isolator but take a read anyway and give me your input.

I've got a faint buzzing sound, almost a hum. It varies only slightly with the RPMs but it changes INVERSELY to them, meaning as the RPMs get higher, it gets lower.

• Power and audio cables are on opposite sides of the car
• Ground is GOOD. I verified this yesterday by regrounding the system.
• It only happens when the car is on - eliminates power to audio line interference issue
• can't be a ground loop from the amps as they are both screwed into wood

I've heard of a type of capacitor device that goes on one of the alternator lines to filter noise but don't remember the name. If its a ground loop isolator that I need can anybody suggest a make? and where does it get wired?

 

You need to go through the whole procedure of finding whats causing the prob. Start with making some muting plugs for the amps and then powering up the amp and seeing if there is noise. If there is noise, then its the amp. If not, then there are other things to check, but do this first.

 

Yeah I saw a few of those little deals at the local Radio shack. Check it out they might have what you need for less than 15 bucks.

 

The radio shack deals just block that frequency, including music, I had this problem when i used to use cheap amps. I put in a good amp and presto! perfectly clear.

 

ground loop isolators can and do work, but long as your ground wire is as big as your power wire and as short as possiable, and you got a good amp you shouldnt have any noise.

 

Would you call Kicker's to be good amps? I would think so.
The ground wire is the same gauge as the power wire.
The system is grounded pretty much twice. Since the amps are IN the rear seats the ground coming from the amps runs to the metal frame rail in the seat which is bolted directly to the hinge and frame of the car. I scraped all paint away from the surfaces to get a good contact and there is no play in the hinge. The second ground comes after I tried to make sure that frame rail is grounded for sure. I ran another length of wire of the same guage from that frame rail, down the seat, out the hinge and under a panel to a point on the frame. The noise did NOT go away whatsoever. This just proves that the initial ground I had was not the problem.

Somebody at nethirdgen.org suggested testing the RCA shields to see if they are grounding out. I did that and they were but they may have been grounding out through the head unit's ground which may not be malfunctioning, but if they do indeed have a crimp or cut in them somewhere that may be the problem as well. I have ordered a new set of RCA's since I wanted to swap my current ones out and they aren't of the best quality anyway. We'll see what happens.

 

I dont know much about amps, well i know the THD thing is important and having mofset power but have no idea really.

Ive had the noise problem many many times over the years and a total rewire allways helped.

If you got loot to spend, welding wire is the best. The welding cable you can buy, well for replacing welder leads on arc welders.

I am using extension cords my self. good 3 wire fat orange kind.
6 postives from the batt and 6 grounds. I got my amp far in the back sitting on some 1/2 steal plates for heat transfer and got it grounded to the hatch release bolts behind the plastic.

 

 

new rca cables is the best chance to get reed of noise let us know how you make

 

also make sure you run rca cables and power cords on oppiste sides when possable

 

Yeah he has the RCAs and power running on opposite sides of the car. I'm just curious, what brand RCAs are you going with, pianiy?

 

The RCA cables should be run down the center of the car if possible. If that is too much of a PITA then the passenger side is the best spot to run them. The driver side has all the power for the tail lights and such running down it (many small power cables)

 

Well, I went with Stinger Dream 8.4mm 5M cables that were supposedly the "best" according to autotoys.com. They're still too long and I had to coil them again under the dash but the noise is definitely gone. I have a new noise though, everytime the brake lights go on or off I hear a faint pop. I would imagine this has to do with the ground but I'd have no idea where to start with this one.