Have any of you guys managed to run 2 x12 or 2 x10 inch subs plus a battery in the trunk of a gta ?


p.s. i know those subs can be a bit bassy but would this harm the battery?

 

I had my battery in the rear storage area for awhile. THat would let you run whatever you want in the well.

 

Many people have moved their battery to the spare tire area and used the battery relocation kit from summit. You don't want to put it in the actual well area because as HITHERE battery operates it releases toxic and flammable gases, hence the summit kit which seals it off from the cabin.

 

Thanks a lot.

The kit from summit how much dose it cost?

Please keep em comin!

 

sheit, i got two batteries and two 12"s in the back of mine.
got two yellow top optimas and i have the two batteries isolated, and the car battery is lead up to the starter via 4awg wire and a 200amp phoenix gold circuit breaker incase i need to kill power. the other battery just hangs out and goes directly to my amp via 0awg

 

I've looked at quite a few different setups for subs and batteries in the back and unless you are pushing some SERIOUS power back there, all you really need is a capacitor. Not only does it make it a lot less of a pain in the ^$%# relocating things, but its a very simple instalation. I have 2x1000watt infinity 10's in the back of my 90 camaro, and I have a rockford 1.5 farad capacitor on there. Before I installed the cap my battery guage would jump close to a quarter of the guage when my bass would hit. now I don't even hardly see it move. What kind of e.q. are you planning on putting in your car? Because like I said, maybe all you need is just a capacitor. If you want tips on installing one just e-mail me or pm me.

 

90RS, did you upgrade the wiring under the hood? you could have possibly saved that $100+ you spent on the cap....

 

Didn't need too. One of my biggest pet-peeves when it comes to sound e.q. is a poor/unproper wiring job. The thing is, yeah, caps aren't the cheapest alternative, especially a 1.5 farad like mine (which is overkill, but I got a smoking deal on it) but they are alot better for your car then running a lot of power to a sound system and relying only on your alternator and battery. When your battery guage is dipping when the base hits all it's doing is shortening the life of your electronic e.q., especially at night when your using your lights. If you disagree though please let me know, I know I'm far from being the sound e.q. ***.

 

like i was saying, you could have saved yourself $100+ that you spent on the cap. if you had upgraded the wiring under your hood, which includes the alt to battery, battery to ground, and battery to engine block, you wouldnt have dimming lights. many people dont seem to realize this when they put their system together. everyone runs 4ga or bigger to their system, but your alt is only using an 8ga wire. a cap will only save you for a split second. i keep saying this, but i run a 1000+ watt system and i have no dimming lights. and their is no class d in my setup right now, so that should give you an idea of how much power i'm drawing

 

Not to jump in the middle, but some amps are more efficient than others. Even if you're both running 1000 watts worth of Class A or Class AB amperage, you could have varying degrees of actual current draw. That being said, of course it's still a good idea to upgrade wiring, and for some peoples equipment and musical choices a cap is also a good investment. Now can't we all just get along?

 

i didnt mean to be coming down on anyone. however ( ), a cap should be a last resort, not the first choice. a cap is only a band aid for a bad electrical system. and since changing 3 wires under the hood is the cheapest route ($25 max), i dont see why more people take advantage of it. it is also one of the most crucial upgrades when you upgrade a system. getting a bigger alt is the other choice, but also very expensive. but once again, you wouldnt see its full potential unless you upgrade the wiring. so, just to reitterate my statement, if an electrical system can handle a stereo system, then there is no need for a cap and it doesnt cost an arm and a leg to get it up to par.

 

Don't get me wrong, I completely agree about the wiring, honestly I never put too much thought into upgrading my battery cables. In most cases that more than likely is one of the best alternatives. The thing is though, in my opinion, with a cap on your system, not only does it protect against harming your electrical components (band-aid is a good term for it) it is a good way to get some extra 'oomph' out of your subs. After I put my cap on i noticed a rather pleasent difference in how much they were putting out. That may be because of how big my cap is, that I'm unsure of. And as for cost, it really isn't that hard to find a good and cheap cap. My 1.5 farad cap (which one that big you usually don't find in stores) I got for $20. Just found someone that wasn't using it anymore. You can find them on e-bay cheap too.

 

yeah, $20 isnt a bad price. but to go furthur into your experience, the reason why your subs seem to be performing better is that when an amp pushes out more power (such as for a quick, loud bass hit), it draws more power too, for that split second. if the power coming in is lacking, then it wont be able to reproduce that loud hit. instead it'll be lower. you'll also notice the lights dim at that exact second too. too much draw, not enough flow.

 

Shoot, lol, I think we've gone a little off of what the original topic was, and to get back to that, chrissy, maybe a mix of everything is the best bet. Honestly, it really depends on how much time/money you have to spend. Hell, if you can do what both CAMp3RO and I have done, then you're gonna have yourself one hell of a setup! I have no idea how much the relocation kits cost, though, sorry.

 

You could use a gel-cell battery without a relocation kit. They don't emit those noxious fumes. Where my battery was, the natural ventilation of the car brought any fumes or gasses outside via the driver side door vents (according to the service manual anyway )