PPI worth $100
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From: Glendale, Arizona
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PPI worth $100
I just bought a PPI amp from this kid I met at work. The amp looks to be in good condition. It's 400 watts a channel and there is 4 Channels. I don't know anything else about this amp. I'm going to take it to this small time stereo shop and have this guy I know test it and find out what it's rattings would be. But from the sounds of this amp do you think $100 is a good price. Cause if not I know somebody else that would buy it for the same price.
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Originally posted by Eric86TA
Are you sure that is 400W per channel and not 400W for all 4 channels?
Are you sure that is 400W per channel and not 400W for all 4 channels?
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From: Glendale, Arizona
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Yup I took it in to a shop and it WORKS. It is 1600 watts total. ALL IS GOOD. The only prob is right now it's hooked up to a 15 and it's over heating.
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From: Austin, Texas
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Sorry dude but the 4400 stand for 4 channel and 400 max. The amp is only 4x50 but it might be a little more if it is underrated, which it probably is.
http://hypaudio.com/hypaudio/pc4400.html
http://hypaudio.com/hypaudio/pc4400.html
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If this small time shop told you that it is 1600 watts I think you should start to aviod them because they don't know what they are talking about.
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From: Glendale, Arizona
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the shop did'nt tell me it was 1600 total......that was my miss understanding. I figured it would be 400 total, thougth it was too good to be true. It still pounds though. So I payed $100 for a crapy amp. I could sell this on the street though for $100. At least I would get my money back.
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
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What you have is NOT a crappy amp by any means. Getting a fully functional PPI amp for 100 bux is a deal. They make great amps, but their focus is more on sound quality as opposed to SPL, even though they make a few 1000 watt amps. If you want something that says it puts out a lot of power get a Pyramid of Boss, but if you want something that is high quality stick with PPI or something else like it.
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From: Glendale, Arizona
Car: 91 Camaro T-Tops
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So the amp that I have........it's a 4 channel amp....50 watts a channel @ 4ohms and 100 watts a channel @ 2ohms.......I would like to get 2 12" Kicker comp VR sub woofers.....they handel 800 watt MAX....They make them in Dual 4 ohms and Dual 2 ohms......do you think my amp would handel them? I don't think it would but I don't too much about stereo's
Last edited by Catchen22; May 12, 2003 at 12:48 AM.
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What kind of bass are you wanting. That bump that you want everyone to hear or the kind that fills our your system for sound quality?
If you like sound quality, that would make a great speaker amp for components or coax's or even possibly for a single efficient sub.
If you want a bass system, you would probably be better of selliing it and getting something else for the subs. The 400 watts max on those subs doesn't mean anything. Your best bet would be a Class D amp, which is more efficient and puts out more power on the dollar for subs. What is the RMS rating of those subs. That is what will help you decide on which amp to use. Also, what type of box are you planning on using?
If you like sound quality, that would make a great speaker amp for components or coax's or even possibly for a single efficient sub.
If you want a bass system, you would probably be better of selliing it and getting something else for the subs. The 400 watts max on those subs doesn't mean anything. Your best bet would be a Class D amp, which is more efficient and puts out more power on the dollar for subs. What is the RMS rating of those subs. That is what will help you decide on which amp to use. Also, what type of box are you planning on using?
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400w RMS on those Kickers, 800w peak. So that amp would push them ok, but not efficently. A class D or higher powered 2 channel would be better suited.
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From: Glendale, Arizona
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as far as I know there is only one kind of box for the camaro isn't there? I want good bass but I don't need it to rattle apart my car, on the same note I like quality sound. I heard in a hatch back it sounds better anyways. I haven't bought anything yet execpt for the amp cause at the time it seemed like a good deal. My friend will buy my amp for $100. He's aware that it's 400W max and he's aware that it's only 50W @ 4 ohms and 100W @ 2 ohms ( each channel ). Speaking of ohms........whats the deal with DUEL voice coil 4 Ohms and DUEL voice coil 2 Ohms, I think thats what it is......what should I go with?
Last edited by Catchen22; May 12, 2003 at 12:50 AM.
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From: Austin, Texas
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If you are in search of good sound quality and you just want a sub that can fill out your sound, as opposed to being just loud, the I would suggest that you look into the idea of a single, efficient 12" or 10" sub and retain the amp that you have.
What kind of speakers do you have in the front?
The reason I suggest this is that the amp you have is quite good and if you bridge the rear channels of the amp, you would have a little over 200 watts for a single sub. Now, you may not think that is a lot, but in the car audio world, there is a huge difference in quality over quantity. You could build a box for a single sub and put it in the back (there are lots of people here with some ideas, so just browse some of the other topics). Then, get a single sub that is 4 ohms (or dual 2 ohms) and you can run that sub of the rear channels of the PPI amp and then you can use the front channels to run you front speakers. I have this kind of set-up, only with a larger amp and a single 10". It is more that adaquet for my personal listening tastes. I would say go to a shop and demo some of their single sub setups, with an amp similar to the PPI and see what you think.
Some subs I would suggest are:
JL W0 or W3
Image Dynamics IDQ (nice sub)
Infinity Reference
Go listen to some and see what you think. With a hatchback, the sound will be a little different, so keep that in mind. Good luck and let us know what is happening.
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What kind of speakers do you have in the front?
The reason I suggest this is that the amp you have is quite good and if you bridge the rear channels of the amp, you would have a little over 200 watts for a single sub. Now, you may not think that is a lot, but in the car audio world, there is a huge difference in quality over quantity. You could build a box for a single sub and put it in the back (there are lots of people here with some ideas, so just browse some of the other topics). Then, get a single sub that is 4 ohms (or dual 2 ohms) and you can run that sub of the rear channels of the PPI amp and then you can use the front channels to run you front speakers. I have this kind of set-up, only with a larger amp and a single 10". It is more that adaquet for my personal listening tastes. I would say go to a shop and demo some of their single sub setups, with an amp similar to the PPI and see what you think.
Some subs I would suggest are:
JL W0 or W3
Image Dynamics IDQ (nice sub)
Infinity Reference
Go listen to some and see what you think. With a hatchback, the sound will be a little different, so keep that in mind. Good luck and let us know what is happening.
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From: Glendale, Arizona
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I have stock speakers in the dash........I'm replacing them since one JUST went out......I've got stock everything......there was a system in the car before....all the wireing is already done......I have a KOSS deck, it's 4x40........what kind of speakers would you suggest in the front? Should I replace the back ones while I'm at it?
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i'll spend what ever I have to......even if it takes me forever to save. I don't have anything right now.......except stock speakers......and even then a couple are blown
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From: Austin, Texas
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My first suggestion for a good sound would be to ditch the 4x6's in the dash and get some kickpanels. You can get a shop to make them, make them yourself or get some from here.
For speakers I would say that you need to go and audition as many as possible to find some that sound good to your ears.
For rear speakers, many people either leave them out, if they have kickpanels, or leave the stock ones or mildly upgraded ones in. Many people, such as myself, like to have the sound coming from in front of the listener. This gives you the illusion of a real performance. Now, I cannot stand to hear speakers from the rear.
For subs, I would say go and audition more of those, including the ones I mentioned above if possible. Depending on how loud you want it to be you will probably choose either a single or dual set-up, so for an enclosure, you can check out that site that I previously listed or build one yourself.
For amps you have several possibilities:
- if you go for a single sub set-up you could use a single 4 channels to drive your whole system, two channels for the front and one bridged channel for the sub
- you could have a separate amp for the front speakers and the sub. If you do this, you will probably want a Class D amp for the sub because it will give you more wiring options with your sub(s) and is more effiecient, so it is less of a strain on your electrical system.
Post any more questions that you have and good luck.
For speakers I would say that you need to go and audition as many as possible to find some that sound good to your ears.
For rear speakers, many people either leave them out, if they have kickpanels, or leave the stock ones or mildly upgraded ones in. Many people, such as myself, like to have the sound coming from in front of the listener. This gives you the illusion of a real performance. Now, I cannot stand to hear speakers from the rear.
For subs, I would say go and audition more of those, including the ones I mentioned above if possible. Depending on how loud you want it to be you will probably choose either a single or dual set-up, so for an enclosure, you can check out that site that I previously listed or build one yourself.
For amps you have several possibilities:
- if you go for a single sub set-up you could use a single 4 channels to drive your whole system, two channels for the front and one bridged channel for the sub
- you could have a separate amp for the front speakers and the sub. If you do this, you will probably want a Class D amp for the sub because it will give you more wiring options with your sub(s) and is more effiecient, so it is less of a strain on your electrical system.
Post any more questions that you have and good luck.
Last edited by Huckster's '84 TA; May 14, 2003 at 01:13 PM.
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From: Glendale, Arizona
Car: 91 Camaro T-Tops
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Do those kick pannels take up any room? I have a stick shift so I have 3 pedels instead of 2 and I really don't want to take up anymore space than what is already taken. Do you know any brands to stay away from, as far as speakers and amps?
I have a set of kickpanels for sale.....They come with an Infinity Component set of speakers (602.a I beleive)
I paid
200 for speakers
150 + for the kickpanels
Ill let it all go for $230.
let me know
I paid
200 for speakers
150 + for the kickpanels
Ill let it all go for $230.
let me know
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L
Transmission: TH700-R4
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From: Glendale, Arizona
Car: 91 Camaro T-Tops
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Transmission: T5
why would I get rid of the speakers in the dash and go with the kick pannels? Is there a difference in sound? Do the ones in the dash make it sound like crap?
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From: Austin, Texas
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Yes there is.
First, the speakers in the dash are not the most efficient size for a speaker when it come to sound. The lack the ability to play any mid-bass and have a hard time producing a full sound. Go listen to a set of components and then compare them to a set of 4x6's and you will be amazed.
Second, the are not in the best place for stereo imaging. You want to try and make the pathlengths between speakers as close as possible for the best staging and imaging. If you have some home or computer speakers you can see this by sitting in front of them and forming a triangle, with the speakers an equal distance between you and them and each other. Then play a song with some good imaging, usually something classical works good, as well as many other songs. You should be able to place several of the instrument locations if front of you, like you are at a live performance. The sound should not seem as if they are coming from the speakers but should hang in mid-air in front of you. It is quite an amazing feeling.
Good luck.
First, the speakers in the dash are not the most efficient size for a speaker when it come to sound. The lack the ability to play any mid-bass and have a hard time producing a full sound. Go listen to a set of components and then compare them to a set of 4x6's and you will be amazed.
Second, the are not in the best place for stereo imaging. You want to try and make the pathlengths between speakers as close as possible for the best staging and imaging. If you have some home or computer speakers you can see this by sitting in front of them and forming a triangle, with the speakers an equal distance between you and them and each other. Then play a song with some good imaging, usually something classical works good, as well as many other songs. You should be able to place several of the instrument locations if front of you, like you are at a live performance. The sound should not seem as if they are coming from the speakers but should hang in mid-air in front of you. It is quite an amazing feeling.
Good luck.
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