I managed to get 2 Kicker CompVR 18's pretty cheap. Only reason why the guy was selling was there to loud for him... I didn't think there ever was such a thing. Anyways I've been thinking of adding some bass to my street cruiser and now I have a reason.

I was researching and there's no way I can fit the 18's in the hatch well area and still have enough air space for a sealed box. They take around 2.2 to 5.0 each.

I thinking I might just have a local sound shop build me a box for my back seats. I really don't feel like trying to crawl around and build the box while it's in the car. I'm to fat and lazy for that... not to mention being 6'5 doesn't help the fact either.

I've searched for acouple hours and I've seen jawzforlife1 has build a box for 12's and his cousin for 15's. Just wondering does anyone even have 18's in their car? I noticed one member was talking about putting them in when I was looking through the archives.

Do the big subs sound better if pointed forward or aimed back?

Some people say they should better back cause of the waves have plently of time before they come back to the listener. Others still prefer the straight forward... seems kind of mixed to me.

Anyways I was thinking of just doing 2 12's or a 15 but... for the price I got on these I could have only bought 2 12's for it, so I figured why not go big.

Here's the reason for the box in the back seat and why I don't care about losing the room. (pic to come shortly)

 

Here's that pic I resized it so it's a lot smaller than what it was...

 

Kicker 18's are do-able...a guy here in town had two, custom enclosure....slammed!

 

Yeah, that's what I thought too. I only gave 240 bucks for both of them and that's including the shipping! So I have plenty of cash for a box, amps, and rest of the install.

 

Next question.

What amp can I get to power these monsters? There 4 ohm DVC so I could run them down to 2 ohm. They take 1000 watt RMS each with a 2000 watt peak each.


I'm thinking a memphis Mojo amp. It's suppose to put out 2000 x 1@13.8V and 2400 x 1 @ 15.5 V.

Any ideas?

 

JBL 12001

puts out the same power at 1 or 2 ohm....will do around 600 watts to each....enough to get them to sing.

 

Won't 600 watts each be significantly under powering them?

This is my first system and I've always heard kickers like to have atleast RMS to each sub. Some of my friends are even putting another acouple hundred above RMS to the smaller 12" compvrs.

I looked up the JBL 1200-1 that's a heck of a lot cheaper than the Mojo.

I'm gonna run by the audio shop today and see what they can throw me at a good price (one of my friends work there so maybe I can get something at cost or a little above it).

 

I still really don't understand the whole DVC ohm wiring either.

So if I wire 1 DVC 4 Ohm Sub with coils in parallel it makes the load 2 Ohms for that sub? Since I'm just going negative from amp to negatives on the coils and positive from amp to positives on the coils.

Which I could use 2 JBL 1200.1 amps, one for each sub at 1200w x 1 at 2 ohm?

Otherwize if I ran them 2 DVC I could get 4 ohms or 1 ohm depending on wiring, which really doesn't matter since I need a lot more watts than most amps are pushing to get RMS of 1000w per sub (2000 watts RMS total).

Is that right?

 

here is some good reading.
http://www.cbrstereo.com/dual_voice_...g_tutorial.htm

 

Yeah, I got the same thing off the JL audio site except they went even farther showing all the way up to 6 DVC drivers.

Just saying would it be better to wire the subs up so there 2 ohm subs and then put a JBL 1200.1 on each so I'm pushing 1200 watts @ 2 ohm to each sub?

I think it might be more cost effective just to get 2 JBL amps, 1 per sub.

I wonder how many batteries I'm going to have to add.

 

a DVC 2 will wire to a 1 ohm load, which is still fine for a JBL 12001

are these the DVC woofers?

 

There the DVC 4 ohm woofers.

Just saying is it better to go with both subs in parallel/ parallel so I get 1 ohm and put only 1 1200.1 amp putting out 1200 watts @ 1 ohm to both subs... so 600-700 each sub depending on output.

Or

Taking one sub doing it parallel so it goes from 4 ohms to 2 ohms then put a 1200.1 on that (1200-1400 watts each sub). So I have 2 subs... both are 2 ohms and each have a 1200.1 amp on them.

 

wire a JBL 12001 like this to each 4 ohm woofer.

 

So your saying just do them in parallel so the 4 ohm woofer becomes 2 ohms. And it will have 1200 to 1400 watts put to each. so like this


K

I was just trying to clear it up. I thought about just wiring both up parallel to each other. But that get both down to 1 ohm... but I didn't figure a 1200.1 would be enough to push both 18's.




Do you think a 1200.1 on each sub is to much power?

 

Kinda much IMHO, but if they are sealed, I think your OK.

 

I went to the Audio Store today. They quoted me at around 235 bucks for a custom box, all the cables for everything, and the whole install. The only things I would have to provide would be the amps, subs, and an extra battery.

 

that's a good deal!

 

1200.1 amps are 265 bucks on Ebay (new from www.ikesound.com)

There 6 bucks cheaper on their site, but the ebay ones include shipping costs which would be like 16 or 18 bucks. Now who wants to loan me 530 bucks?

Cost of this project is:

(2) 4Ohm 18" Kicker CompVRs 240 bucks
(2) JBL 1200.1 Amps 530 bucks
Complete install + box, wiring 235 bucks
New Optima Battery 100 bucks

Grand Total of the Sub Project 1105 bucks

Not to bad really when you figure what the list price is on everything. Now I just need to get the cash to finish it, since all I got now is the subs... laf a lot of good their doing me.

 

Holy crap that is going to be loud. What is the RMS on those subs? Cause those amps put out 1200 RMS each. You will make your friends cry if you crank it with them in the car. Oh yeah, you will be crying too

Brian

 

1000 rms, 2000 max

 

Wow, I would have guessed about 700rms at most. Thats cool. Arent the VRs usually pretty low in power handling? I havent heard Kicker 18s since 1996, I assume they still pound like ******

 

wow...you heeard old skool.

Now, they are 2000 max, and can RMS 1000-1200 daily, DVC as where they were SVC, and can handle ported applications where the others couldn't.

Now, the Kicker Solo X is a new story altogether. :0

 

My buddy was saying he wanted to get those after reading some stuff on them. I have yet to see anything about them. Ill check out the site.

 

holy freaking crap! thats all I can say :hail: :hail: :rockon: :rockon:

 

they are 'beefy'...

 

hehe... yeah... X's are 5000 RMS 10000 Peak and only weigh 150 lbs or so... bet you wouldn't feel the weight that much

They're selling for 710 bucks on ebay with another 100 or so for shipping.

But really for the price I can't afford them (college student). I could do 4 18" VRs (more if I got them used) for the price of one X.

Laf, some guy on kicker chat room told me that I can't put 1200 watts to that sub. He said I would burn it up. Then he said I should get a MTX 801D amp and run both down to 1 ohm and power both off it. He said it would sound better, because JBL makes a cheap crappy amp.

I really don't see where I can't over power them. Since I'm not going to have it cranked all the time. And I don't plan on using hardly any gain on the amps. My car barely holds 14 volts or so now while running (underdrive pulleys and electric fans). So I think the guy doesn't know crap and I'm still going with 2 JBL 1200.1 amps... besides if I decide there too much power I'll just run them down to 1 ohm and put the amp on both of them... making 600-700 RMS to each and then I'll have to get some more 18"s cause we can't have a good amp just sitting and not being used.

 

I was on chat last night as well...the JBL will be fine.

 

Hopefully I can get some money to finish the project. I still have a 383 motor build, and new rims so I'm trying to really budget my money. + new 3.73 gears I need to put in the rear end and my electric exhaust cutout that still hasn't went on yet... good thing winter is coming.

I might get a digital camera here soon (christmas) so I can get some pics out to you all once it's done.

 

The subs came yesturday... I about busted a nut trying to carry each box... 30 lbs each came in 24x24x16 boxes. I checked them there the 03 models.

 

Guess I'll just keep on talking to myself....

Bought 2 lightning audio 1 farad digital caps and 15 feet worth of 1/0 gauge wiring (should be enough to do alternator and run from battery to battery easily).

Also purchased my 2 JLB 1200.1 amps, though I did manage to paypal to wrong address... stupid ebay... if some company is selling an item they should use the address they want you to pay to not a personal address. The personal address even said the companies name in the name area. I have to call about that tomorrow.

So, all I have left to do is buy the red top and pay for installation/custom box.

I'm stopping by shop tomorrow to talk to them again about the box... I'm thinking I should angle them so they point back into the hatch area.

 

we just like seeing the 'boucy' girls...tell me about the 383 you are building...or, are you 'planning' to build one?

 

Kind of half planning half building... Assembly is at shop being balanced, 4 bolt block was there but it was bad I haven't got around to taking another 4 bolt over yet.

Bought:
4340 Forged Eagle 400 crank (good to 1000 hp)
4340 Forged UltraLW I beams (good to 600 hp, only weigh 550 grams each)
TRW PowerForged Pistons 30 over (Floating pins to go with the Floating rods)
CompCams Solid Stud Girdle
CompCams Black Polymer Covers
CompCams 1.6 ratio Pro Mags
CompCams Breather stand (might order another)
2 Generic Chrome K&N type breathers
Speed Demon 750 Mech. DP
AFR Race Ready 210 (really 215 cc) Alum. Heads (2.08 / 1.6 valves)
Victor Jr Intake (about 20 hours fully polished)
4 hole black Phenolic 2 inch spacer with carb studs
ARP 4 bolt main stud kit
MSD Pro-billet Distributor
MSD Blaster 2 coil with mounting bracket and coil wire
AC delete heater box
AC delete pulley (hand polished by me)
Stage 2 Stewart water pump (aluminum) flows like 160 gpm at 7k rpms
Demon carb fuel line (expensive metal one with AN fittings)
solid motor mounts

Still need:
Gaskets
CompCams Polymer Air Filter
All the linkage stuff
CompCams solid roller custom grind
CompCams solid roller lifters with oiling grind
7 qt oil pan and pump (thinking 4 inch stroker one milodon makes with built in screen)
Bearings
AN Fuel lines
holley blue pump and regulator
Balancer and Flex plate
total seal gapless piston rings
upper half of motor mounts
send my 2400 ACT 9.5" stall back in to get match to new cam when I order it
Probably left out more crap

I'm shooting for around 550 hp at the fly with this combo hopefully. With it being balanced and solid roller parts I'm planning on reving it up 7500 rpms max.

Should be a fairly mean street daily driven motor So I figured I need'd a roll bar I got it under GP it was fairly cheap. I know right now looks gay with stock motor... but it does put out 211 hp and 313 tq at rear wheels and that's even with the slipage from my stall.

(Parents are starting to get mad at me stacking crap in front room.) Currently has all the parts except intake, heads, and assembly. I also have 2 27x10 hoosier drag slicks and all my audio parts and my gear set in there also.

My 15x9s and 15x7s Draglite XPs are out in my room on the floor.

 

Oh, I should add I'm not a rich kid or anything... just a poor college student I make a whole 100 bucks a week or so... laf It's took me around a year just to get this far.

 

chris everytime i talk to you you buy more crap. lol. poor my butt. its been a year and you bought all that stuff.

 

Hey, I know what it feels like. I had a 406 built, was going to do a mild deal then it turned into a money pit! But it's long gone now...so,

But sounds like a good combo...ony thing I see is the 7500 rev!

 

I just hope I don't break my 1st design Spohn rod end tq arm

So what do you think about the angle on the subs... point straight up, angle back towards hatch, or angle forward towards the dash?


I'm thinking hatch... if not that even straight up.

 

towards the hatch..

 

Dangit, I'm going to want to hear this setup in person. How far is Plymouth from Dayton?

 

Hehe... Plymouth to Dayton (Assuming OH) I around 400 miles... you're gonna have a nice trip.


Stopped by audio shop They played the JL W7 12" for some people. Man I had to leave the room my lungs were starting to hurt. Then they played the W6 on same amp and cd. It wasn't quiet as loud course the sub and box combo was cheaper than just the sub for the w7 ;-)

Well my caps and 1/0 wiring come today from thezeb.com.

Called into ikesound again and I got it straightened out I think. They made me pay shipping even though it said free shipping under shipment details. So they refund'd my paypal payment and paypal put it on hold (********). Good thing I got plenty of cash. Then they made me pay for again with the shipping amount too.

Then they pulled this crap that since order was big (only $562 bucks worth) they had to have a copy of the credit card and my ID. They wanted me to mail it and they were going to hold the amps till they got it and processed it what ever that means. I emailed them it after blocking out all but the first and last 4 digits. Not that it really matters I can generate credit card numbers for any name with a DOS program So really the only thing a person has to do is enter in a name and pick a certain card type and bank.

So it's suppose to be shipped out today... This is the last time I ever get something from Ike's sound though... I'm still royally pissed about it.

 

Guess what I got another problem. Now the installer at the Audio Store threw a fit about the project when I brought the car in for them to have look before my appointment tuesday. He said the sales person was on crack when he quoted me that price. They called me yesturday and said that they can't do the box for 125 bucks ( particle board even). They want 300+ bucks for a particle board box. I told them no way, the only reason why I did this project was they said they would build me the box cheap. Now I got over 1k wrapped up in it and still no box (or supplies) or amp wiring kits. I first thought about just doing one out of MDF since I have a table saw I could rip it all on at home. Now I'm thinking it would probably be easier just do a fiberglass one and put a MDF top board glass'd on it. What's everyone think?

 

Talk to some people here that make custom boxes, like REZN8R. I'm sure they'll be glad to help.

 

Yeah, I'm thinking fiber is the way to go. Since this is gonna have to be built in the car and won't be a removeable. If I did wood each piece would have to be cut to fit then actually glued and screwed together while in the car leaning around the roll bar. I've been reading like mad on fiberglassing seems like a pretty easy concept I'll just have to make a mold out of cardboard then tape/foil and wax it then do the box and break the cardboard apart and boom it's pretty much done after that.

Probably do a pretty strong one with mat type first acouple layers to get the mold setting right then switch over and do acouple of Knytex Biaxial type layers. That way the box should be pretty strong... sounds like a fun first fiberglassing experience.

 

Box is being installed today. The shop has decided to build me a well mounted type to fit 2 18"s. I told them good then I could get 2 more 18"s for the back seat. (j/k).

Anyways it took me at least 3+ hours or so to run my 0 gauge wiring last night and hide it all under the carpet. Installed the battery (yellow top optima) last night also. It fit in the side glovebox in the hatch... but the crappy box wouldn't hold the weight (48 lbs) so I had to pull it back out. I was going to put it on driverside but I didn't like the idea of that since that's 48 lbs that's keeping me from putting weight on the tq side. I ran the cable up through the driverside passenger carpet hole made for the seat belts then mounted my fuse holder on the top of driveshaft tunnel area (I'll drill it and mount it for good eventually). Then stuck my battery in the passengerside rear seat area. Nice thing about it was it only took like a 5 inch wire at most to run my ground to the battery cause I went right off the seat bracket that sticks out.

Hopefully I'll be pounding later today. I'm try to get a camera and get some pics for you guys.

Gotta order some more 0 gauge for the isolator to the main battery I only have probably 1 1/2 feet left.

 

Definitely would like to see pics!

 

Talked to the shop an hour ago... it's gonna be 280 bucks for the install. That's 200 for the particle board box (if I don't like it I'll make one out of MDF using their design and resale mine to kids on campus) I'm sure people would cream over a box to fit 2 18"s in a hatchback. Then there doing the install on 2 amps, 2 caps, and 2 subs. Also polyfilling the box and carpeting it. They said they would also throw in the two amp wiring kits in the $280 buck quote. I think I even talked them into giving me a 15 buck sticker with the shop's name on it... hehe... advertisement.

 

i have never seen a shop that made particle board boxes.


adam

 

Yeah, that's what I thought too. They said they don't do MDF because it's too expensive and to heavy. They said if the box ever blows just bring it back in and they will build another one.

 

pffft...lol

 

if they are scared to use MDF...I would have found another shop....big difference between particle board and MDF...

 

It's in. I think I need another yellow top though cause I drop down to 11.5 or lower on the caps when it starts really pounding and the volt gauge goes to 8 ;-). The system is just plain sick, it hurts to be in the car.

Definitly need some 6x9's now. It pounds so hard though that I can see the hood shaking (stock formula hood). I need to do some stuff before it's done: pad the license plates, mount the spare tire in the back seat, add another fire extinguisher, fix my hatch leaks, + half my interior is already falling apart I need to that back together.