I have my head unit,and 6X9's in my sail panel slots, i was wondering what the color of the wires in the car is for a subwoofer, if there are any. Thanks my car is an 84 Z28, it CAME with a L69 (not anymore though

 

im not sure i understand you??

you want to hook up subs?? or are you asking about factory subs?? what are you trying to acomplish??

Do you have subs in your car now??

 

I dont have subs in my car, i just remember when doing my Fiero there was a fire for a subwoofer already there. Im wanting to wire 1 up in my car, not sure how to hook it up. I have wire i can run, just dunno to where.

 

yah you cant unless you own an amp...camaros didnt come with a factory sub like the fiero did....plus fieros came with factory external sub amps our cars didnt. So youll need a deck with rca outputs to run rcas to the amp (or you can get line level converters to run them off the rear speaker output lines)

Then youll need to run a power wire off your batt, a ground and a power(switched) wire from the deck all to your amp.
then run wires to your subs from the amp.

 

Okay, So ive mesesed with wiring subs and amps, but i have never done a complete install by myself. Im getting a 2400 watt class D Power Acoustics amp and 2 1800 watt dvc 12"s(Going in my grand am not my camaro). Anyways can i hook the ground up to a chasis ground or should i connect it to the battery ground? Also what do you know about power acoustics. i can get them through my dad's company for a lot cheaper but ive never heard them. Sorry, but one more question. I have a cheap jensen head unit right now (alpine on the way) will this make the subs sound completely horrible? or can i Live with it?

Sorry to steal your post
thanks for the help
Jared (84'fxrupr)

 

Ok, If i were you id connect the ground to the car, make sure you clean the pant of the metal and use a real good sized bolt or post,,,you should ask around i do this to my cars and have no problems yet..but im no expert on this subject.

I dont know anything about the brand power accoustics,,,but what you really should look for is the RMS power rating (in good amps they will be rated in RMS or atleast have there RMS rating over half of there max Power rating in watts. They seem to have a good power rating but can you find out what power accoustics rates that amp in RMS power, post that rating for us to look at. Maybe a good idea to do that with the subs too.

Now about the deck,,,Im assuming its a Jensen cd player, right? If it is then it will be fine as long as you got the rca outputs on the back of it. See the sound that comes out those rcas are a very low wattage (has not been amplified), just enoght to get the sound thru then it goes to the amp where it gets amplified. So really the sound difference from a alpine with amp and subs and jensen with the same amp and subs will be very slim..i dont think you could tell the differnece (IMO) some may disagree. Now a tape deck would be different the alpine would sound better. I think you should totaly get the alpine tho just so the rest of your speakers benifit from the cleaner sound because you'll have a better wattage internal amp.

 

thanks for the help

Okay the amp:
2400 watt class d amp with digital circuitry
2400 watts bridged max at 1 ohm
900 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms RMS
1400 wattsx1 @ 2 ohms RMS
Full regulated PWM power supply
4-way protection circuit, bridging synchronization
variable low pass subsonic filter and subwoofer eq
dual mono speaker output connectors
Gold plated heavy duty power and speaker terminals

and the subs:
1800 watt woofers
Dual 2 ohm voice coils
1800 watts power handling
non-pressed paper cone
large foam rubber surround
2" ASV voice coil
1-piece EVA gasket
Die cast, chrome screw terminals
10" has 160 oz magnet
12" has 270 oz magnet

The brands are Power Acoustik and thats all the info on the sheets.

Thanks for any help you guys are awesome.

jared (84'fxrupr)

 

Those are respectable specs for an amp, and for subs. You might want to look at the company's website or any user manuals you may have gotten with them for more information. Specifically the signal to noise ratio. This basically tells you how much distortion the amp may have at that particular setting. The lower this number the better the amp. Generall the amps that can produce this number the lowest at the lowest impedance will be the clearest and higher quality amps.

You should also look carefully at the enclosure specs for the subs you have. Despite the power you are getting to the subs, and even above the clairity of the signal coming from the head unit, the correct enclosure design for the subs will make the most difference in how they sound, both in umph and in range of bass response.

Hope this helps.

 

84'fxrupr - Ya they do look like some pretty sweet stuff. If you can get them cheaper thru your dad then you can on ebay,,go for it! Look around the net for some prices see what you can come up with.
3 things to be concered about now.....

a- was already mentioned make sure your boxes internal volume is close to what the subs call for (prob. abit over 1' volume LxWxD)
b- do you know how to hook a momo (1channel) amp up to 2 subs and run them in 2ohms,,instead of 4? I never done it myself but its easy once you know to hook it up corectly.
c- get a real nice heavy power wire with fuses to hook up an nice and big amp up such as that one.

 

Cool new picture... Man i want my camaro back

i can get the 12"s for 70 each and the amp for 250. My dad is slow to the ebay thing and since hes paying he would rather but from a a company he knows exists. Is 4 guage enough for power wire or should i go lower? What about a cap? i found this info on the web site:

Hi Speed Digital Circuitry
Fully Regulated PWM Power Supply
Four Way Protection Circuit
1 Ohm Stable Stereo
Bridging Synchronization
Variable Low Pass 50Hz-150Hz
Variable Subsonic Filter 15Hz-40hz
Variable Subwoofer EQ @ 45Hz
Phase Switch 0-180
Remote Dash Mount Low Level Gain Control With Cable
Frequency Response: 15Hz to 150hz
S/N Ratio: 100 dB
THD: 0.5%
System Distress Indicator
Inputs Sensitivity: 200mv-8v
Dual Mono Speaker Output Connectors
Gold Plated Heavy Duty Power & Speaker Terminals

Also, my camaro is down(long sad story) so this is going in my grand am gt. IT has a decent size trunk, but i've only seen a lot of systems for hatchs. Do you know anything about trunk setups I.e what placement is the best?

Thanks again for all the help

Jared

 

wow!

I went on to the rockford site and i am now excited. I looked up the S/N ratio on the amps (especially the one that ive heard and drule over!) and found that all that were listed were S/N 100dB A-weighted. Thats the same as the one i want. Does this mean that this amp will be comparable in sound to the rockford amp cause D@#n that setup is awesome!

i also found more info on the subs.

FUBR-12

1800 watts power handling
700 Watts RMS
200 oz. magnet
2” ASV voice coil
SPL 91 dB
Fs: 33.5 Hz
Vas: 1.72 cu.ft.
Qms: 4.66
Qes: 0.55
Qts: 0.4939
Xmax: 0.6"
Sealed box: 1 cu. Ft.
Ported box: 2.2 cu.. Ft.
Tuning: 34 Hz
Port Size: 4”(dia)x10.25”(length)
# of ports:1

thanks guys! the only thing that would make this more exciting is if i could get the maro running and put them in there!

Jared

 

Sweet news man!! cool.

that box volume that its calling for is huge Im not sure if youd have any room left over if you made a box for 2 12s. Just think thats 1.72feet.....so thats like a box ummmm
so 1'ft9'' ummm

that would be a box aprox 3' and 6" wide by 1' and 9" deep and 1' and 9" high.....or in another words
42"x21"x21" inside area add 3/4" each end for the mdf. Measure your trunk see what you got...maybe get the 10s.
Those measurments are based on a square box but if you cant acomidate a square box you can adjust it to fit....now that 11th grade geometry sneeks up on yah huh.
4 guage wire is cool man,,,i think i run 6. dont bother getting a cap. Alot say they are a waste of money some say they are not (i dont want to start a debate here). But if your batt or alt. are on there way out soon then the extra strain will make them suff faster. BUT Dont worry bout the other stuff yet.
Get some subs, amp, speaker wire, power wire, fuse, ground wire, (+)amp turn on wire and rca cable and a good box.

 

Okay i was a little "Wierd" earlier
where did you get the 1.72 from? Doesn't it say 1 cubic foot for the sealed box? So wouldn't that mean i would need 2 cubic feet or 25.5x13.5x13.5?

Jared

 

dooohh
Yep your right i was reading the wrong number.
Dont forget you need a divider in there.

 

Heh, sorry, correction on my info before, I was referring to the THD value. The lower this number the clearer or cleaner the sound.

The other value is also important.

I am sure your amps are comparable to rockford's. Sadly, rockford seems to have let things slip a little in the last couple generations of equipment.

Still great stuff though.

Refer to your user manual for correct mono connections for your amp.

In general, the subs go in parallel with eachother, then the + and - leads from there go to the corrisponding + and - posts on the amp for mono connection.

The idea is you will have the amp seeing a 2 ohm load this will allow more current to get to flow. Basically that translates to more power. Bridging an amp into mono mode will usually 1/2 the ohm value again, so we would end up with a 1 ohm load.

Depending on the quality of the components of the amplifier, it will either make things sound really loud and clear, or loud and horrible. This is where the really good amps can be proven to be so. Normally, JL audio, Soundstream, Phoenix Gold, certain models of Rockford and other brands are 1 ohm stable. Some of these amps are even 1/2 or 1/4 ohm stable. Depends on what they are rated at.

 

thanks for all of the help guys, you're awesome!

Hey rubbermanZ28 i'm really, really sorry.I totally jacked your post. Apparently i do this a lot. D@mn i talk to much

Anyways, thanks again guys

Jared (84'fxrupr)