This is #1 of my two ordered TITANIC MK II's, they are sweet.

Specs:

T/S parameters

Mechanical:
Fs: 22.18Hz
QMS: 9.563
Vas: 4.46 cu.ft
Cms: .353 mm/N
Mms: 146.1 g
Rms(calc): 2.124 kg/s
Xmax: 18.9 mm
Diameter: 254mm
Sd: 501.9 sq. cm
Vd(calc): .949L

Electrical

Qes:0.433
Re: 3.027 Ohms
Le: 1.91 Mh
Z(nom): 4 Ohms
Power(rms underrated): 350 Watts
Power(max underrated): 500 Watts

Electro Mechanical

Qts: 0.413
BL: 11.95
no(efficiency): 0.307%
1-W SPL(calc): 87.1 dB
2.83V SPL(calc): 91.3 dB

Magnet weight: 108 oz
Frequency repsonse 22-500 Hz
Voice coil diameter 2"


Here are some pictures

 

Heres the Cone side

 

The magnet side

 

what kind of box do you plan on putting it in?

 

Last one

Who says that Dayton doesn't make competition subs? This sub will put out 115 decibels in a 2 cu. ft sealed box with 50% fill at 490 watts rms, for 119.87 on sale, 149.80 regular price, its hard to find a woofer with this kind of performance, a 5 year warranty and price.

 

what you think of that boomin boy? I'll be building either a sealed or vented box for two of them, that will be for my '87 Iroc-z. I'm going to use some software, and see what will work better, I'll probably go sealed to save some room, but I'll see how big the performance difference is, on bass box 6.0 .

 

That still is not a competition subwoofer. Very good price though

 

89 formula 350, will be pushing 520 horses on motor, no power adder<~~ STill waititng on the mods. I dont see anything about it in any other forum on this site either.

 

heres a pic of my subs beside my adire tempest (the same as a titanic 15)




they arent competition subs by any means

 

That middle dayton, is like a regular woofer, not even a series two, my 15" series two magnet is about 6" in dia. This dayton is designed for the riggers of competition. When did you get that dayton, whats the model? More info please

Oh mods

You wanna see mods eh?

Intake:

Holley stealth ram, port matched, extrude hone ported, rounded plenum, and intake entries, stock throttle body with tpis airfoil.

Valvetrain:

Compcams hardened pushrods, roller lifters, 1.6 pro-magnum roller rockers for 7/16" stud.
Cam Hyd roller cam: grind CS XR276HR-12
Part number: -8-503-8
Power band from 1800-6000rpm
SDPC: True double roller timing chain

Heads: Edelbrock Victor-Jr, will be milled for 10.25:1 compression.

Moroso 6 qt oil pan, blueprinted stock volume oil pump, canton racing windage tray.

Exhaust:

Hooker Super Competition Long Tubes with 3" custom x-pipe within first foot after collector, dynomax bullet mufflers dumps.

MSD wires, coil bosch plugs and Accel300+ Igntion.

Any questions?

 

the middle sub is an adire tempest...same specs as a titanic 15

you'll be hard pressed to find a competition sub with a 2inch VC

 

Dude your smoking rock if you think that makes 520 hp. LMFAO YOur talking about more than twice the hp the car has stock with that little bit of work it'll NEVER happen. Post those mods on the engine tech forum and ask what hp you'll be at see for yourself if you think im just flaming on you.

 

if you run both your subs paralleled you'll have a 2 ohm load which will be good for the JBL 1200, it will give full power

 

Yeah but I want to run them, in stereo mode. Brobert, if you knew any math for airflow in regards to horsepower, the combination of cam, intake and exhaust, its going to make about 490-500 horses on factory eprom with timing and fuel pressure adjustments, while with a worked over eprom and dyno tune I'll see the 520 horsepower, where do you get off telling me what I'm going to make, you have a 6 banger!

 

you dont want to run a pair of subs in stereo...ever

you want them hitting at the same time

 

SO i own a 6 cyl so what. I have had many cars before this car and ANYONE on this site can tell you you will NOT be at 520 hp, . Post it in another forum you will see. ,And just like i said you see alot of people disagree with you. There is no replacement for displacment. lol and by the way, A Competition sub with a 2 inch vc? NEVER

 

Comeon, keep it on topic. Wanna argue about Horsepower go to the Engine boards.

 

Nice sub but I have to agree its not competition stuff.

 

are you putting each sub in its own enclosure? cause if you're running it in stereo and have them sharing airspace, you're gonna ruin those subs quick.

 

I am going to build the box with a divider, so they will both, have there own enclosure if I build a sealed box. I'm still playing with bass box 6.0 though to see what will work better, but I'm probably still going to go with a sealed box for space savings, I don't want people to be able to see the box from the side of the car, when there in there car, but I'll see what happens.

 

Why do you want to run them in stereo?

Don't.

 

Agreed

 

I listen to alot of metal with double bass, and in my experience when you run them bridged the sound isn't quite the same when you run the subs bridged, when compared to stereo. This is mostly why I want to run them stereo, and run two left signals into amp #1 for the left sub, and two right signals into amp#2 for the right sub, the double bass willsound alot better.

 

I listen to alot of metal with double bass, and in my experience when you run them bridged the sound isn't quite the same when you run the subs bridged, when compared to stereo. This is mostly why I want to run them stereo, and run two left signals into amp #1 for the left sub, and two right signals into amp#2 for the right sub, the double bass willsound alot better. I also play the drums and played alot of high dollar gigs during highschool, and what I have also found out from alot of the metal bands I listen to, and most of them record one bass drum per channel, so even though the amp is bridged and the signal is summed to one, it still doesn't side the same as two seperate channels.

 

Says who? Is there a list somewhere that states what you can and can not compete with?

That sub has the capabilities to do very well in an SQ or even SQ+ competition, especially if it's in the right box and is eq'd properly. That sub has a reputation for being very clean, much like the Adire Shiva, which incidentally, is exactly what the Dayton was designed to compete with.

I would also question a difference in sq between stereo and mono, especially considering that 99% of recordings (and 100% of any rock recording) records the bass track in a mono configuration. There should be no audible difference between running the subs in stereo and in mono, but hey... there's no reason not to experiment. If you like it better in stereo, other than a couple dB of maximum output, you're not hurting anything.

 

Go in an spl competition and you'll get blown away by the REAL spl subs. Im not speaking sound quality wise, im speaking pure spl levels. Any jackass can go buy x brand speakers and try to recreate sound quality, sound stage etc. But any x brand speaker will not produce large spl numbers. Maybe i should of explained in more detail but since boomin already showed an example of an spl sub i figured any NORAML adult would understand what i was refering to as a competition subwoofer, Im so sorry, in the future i'll remember we have people on here that dont see the obvious and explain my posts in detail.

 

running your subs in two different channels wont be as loud because most amps put out more wattage at lower impedence levels.

So you will need to spend more on an amp that puts out 600X2 @4ohms rather than one that puts outs 1200X1 @2ohms.

however the lower the impedence the more distortion comes from the amp, but it is only audible in extreme causes. But for this reason some SQ competitors will run their subs at 8 ohm loads

 

Yeah I've heard of that also, about 8 ohm woofers or loads to the amps. My uncle with the 84 cutlass pushing 143 dbs, built a heathkit in the early 80's. A heathkit was an amp that came in pieces and a schematic. The kit he opted for at the time, produces 1200 watts rms into 8 ohms, and this thing whails. Although the size of the amp in regards to the power is exact, its over two feet wide and about 15" tall and 26" deep, with three fans on it. He runs 3 15's per channel. 4 of the 15's, are eminence's and have 6 cu. ft enclosures each, with a massive port. And he also runs two of the series two datyon series II's in a box similar to whats in my cavalier except twice the size. And for mids and highs he has 4 midranges and 4 tweeters per channel, these are powered by the receiver. He has an eq with 32 bands per channel, and uses a technics cd player, and pioneer home receiver. This stereo rocks, its truly amazing to listen to. And his stereo is running at an 8 ohm load for what he's using. And he also said what you said about 8 ohm loads, not only does it seem to work well, but the amp runs twice as cool as if it was running a 4 ohm load; however at the time, there wasn't anything below 4 ohm loads anyhow, so the amp wasn't designed to run below 4 ohms. Regardless the power and soundstage kicks ***.

I'm probably going to get two amps and run them like I mentioned earlier, so an amp that puts out 600 rms into 4 ohms bridged.

Thanks for backing me up Jim85IROC

 

SPL competitions are a joke. SPL competitions are a physics competition now, not a "sound" competition. It's about who can most effectively pressurize the air in the cabin, and nothing more. Airtight cabins, interior volumes of a very specific size, and sub locations oriented in a way to focus the phase based on wavelength at the precise position that the microphone is placed. Major SPL vehicles use modified drivers that not only aren't available to the general public, but have absolutely NO musical capability whatsoever.

SPL vehicles are cool for the technological innovation that goes into them, but it's gotten to the point where the average joe in an SPL competition is a fricking joke.

If you think that "Any jackass can go buy x brand speakers and try to recreate sound quality, sound stage etc.", then you really have no idea what you're talking about. Getting an accurate soundstage out of an automotive environment is far more difficult than making your mirrors shake.

Any moron can throw a pair of Rockfords into a small box, buy a massive amp, and hit 150db on a 55hz burp. Not many people can recreate a full orchestral soundstage and be able to localize each individual violin in the string section of the stage.

 

Impedance discussion.

8 ohm home speakers are fine, because that's what most home amps are designed to push. The problem with using 8 ohm drivers in a car environment is that no car amp is designed to drive 8 ohm setups. They'll work fine, but the reason they stay cool is because they're only making 50% of the power that they are designed to make.

Most subwoofer amps now are designed for 1 ohm stability. If that same amp is pushing an 8 ohm load, it's only making approximately 12% of the power that it could be making into a 1 ohm load.

Just for an example... the 143dB that your uncle got required a huge amp and 3 massive professional-audio subs, which are unfortunately, very far from "optimum" for such a a small environment as a car. Most guys can get higher SPLs with 2 12" subs in a total enclosure size of 2 cubic feet, and maintain much better sound quality in the process.

Likewise, replacing all 50 high frequency drivers that your uncle has up front with a single set of high quality components would probably do wonders for the sound quality of that system.

Your uncle's system sounds interresting, but unfortunately, he's got a pile of components that couldn't be a worse match for the environment that he put them into.

 

Not to beat a dead horse, but I still don't understand the point of putting the subs in stereo. Bass is pretty much impossible to localize with your ear, especially in an automotive environment.

I have to think that there was something else in the setup that was not adjusted well that made it sound better when it was in stereo. (Amp gain, HU adjustment?) The sound improvement could've very well been because you lost a few dB.

Pffft.

 

yeah, i'm gonna take offense to the SQ comment as well. try making a set of speakers at your feet sound like they're on the hood of your car, and then try to have each instrument sound like it was supposed to. sq is very difficult to get right. i like being able to hear all my music, not just bass. i dont even run rear speakers anymore, and it sounds great. now if only my midbass didnt die on me.....

 

i think you might be focusing mainly on the extreme class...plexiglass windows, multiple alternators, many batteries, clamps to hold doors shut that sort of thing.

in dbdrag there are many different classes the most competitive of which is street 1-2...one alt, one batt, one or two subs under 12 inches, and one amp, no walls allowed...so basically you cant modify the vehicle too heavily at all.

"Major SPL vehicles use modified drivers that not only aren't available to the general public, but have absolutely NO musical capability whatsoever." this is completely untrue...infact all equipment used must be fully available to the public. Many competitors will order the beefed up version of the subs from the manufacturer that most people dont know about and also run higher voltages to their amps

 

thanks for your info Jim85IROC, I appreciate people that are sensible and know what they're talking about, there needs to be more people like you and I on this board. Actually that setup I was speaking about previously was in his house, he has 6 woofers and all that stuff I was talking about in his house, but in his 84 cutlass he hit 143dbs with two 12's and 4 6x9's. And everyone thought, I was lying, but it still sounds great in the mids and high region and pounds pretty hard.

I am going for a system that might push 130 dbs, but have the midranges, and highs to match to have a SQ that will impress even the most experienced music listener, yet pound like a son of a without having 16 alternators, or two batteries or all that bs that comes with the spl competition vehicles. Like you said Jim85Iroc, most of the vehicles entered in those competitions can't even be driven, and are just for sitting, and being pushed around, thats not even what I would consider a real car!

Also for my stereo, I would rather hit 130 dbs and have an extremely flat frequency response, instead of 150 at one narrow *** frequency, thats more usable. And another good point, not sure if anyone mentioned, but I'm not building a audio system for an SPL vehicle but a car with great all around sound. I think many people fail to see the point that any dayton woofer produces great bass for whatever class its in, and sounds great doing it, with little distortion. And with several different types of woofers available they make one for practically any application all the way up to professional music production for live bands and what not, with 4" voice coils. Not to mention, Dayton also owns Eminence which makes an even larger number of speakers for many different applications, there great woofers without spending 500$ on, yes those expensive *** woofers may have there times, but in my opinion unless there in an spl car, theres no reason to have them! It would be like buying a ferrarri and letting it sit and collect dust, that is a waste of money! I'll rest assured in my sleep that my 240$ daytons will get worked everyday, and live for more than 5years at there peak. Thats why I go with them.

 

Even the huge system cars in the comps are way more impressive than some molded kick panel with a set of comps that make it sound like someone is sitting on your dash singing.Sound quality has always been easy to recreate as long as you understand the basics.And really its very boring.The huge mega spl systems is REAL work , granted those systems are mega $ systems that probably no one would drive around with but they are true spl sub woofers not $100 parts express specials. And spl subs, comp subs is what i've been refering to since boomin posted the pic comparing the two subs. Originaly it this was about spl comp subs not about sound quality, untill Jim runs in here like a the father of a special ed student being picked on. Then cons jumps on the SQ bandwagon

 

many stock stereos in new cars can hit 130. To hit 150 you dont need a huge spike in your response curve, 150 isnt a huge number...mind you it takes a lot of work but its certainly achievable with decent equipment in a good install

you guys are focusing on comp vehicles in the extreme class that generally only have subs. Less than 10% of vehicles that compete are in the extreme classes. SPL vehicles can have great SQ and SPL at the same time, most people take pride in having a good all-around system

 

allow me to retort, my dayton will sound great and pound hard, no ones slapping themself in the face now. Oh yeah I doubt that the sound increase was do to a decrease in dbs, I did a comparison with two quatro daytons, with a DD1-1300S class D amp, that will run 1300 watts rmsx1 ohm, so I doubt it was the increase sound quality do to decrease in dbs, 500 watts rms into each sub, sounded better, I mean I noticed a difference in sound. The amp put out 450 watts rms into 2 ohms, when I ran the subs in parallel, and it didn't seem to be as good, it seemed almost as if there was a spot of bass missing. This was the last time I tested a setup like this for a comparison, and I had no other components hooked up, only the subs for a strict test, so it was fairly accurate, and if it was in a car, the increase in cabin gain would make an even more noticable difference.

 

Generally these are people who are sponsored by that particular manufacturer. If you can even convince them to sell you one of those subs, you'll pay out your *** for it. Simply put, it's not an attainable option to somebody without "connections".

Generally they do more than run higher voltage to the amps. Most amps that have a regulated power supply need to have it replaced with an unregulated supply... assuming the rest of the internals can handle the higher voltage. Again, this isn't something that the average joe is able to get.

Whatever floats your boat chief. If you think that a high-sq system is as easy as throwing a pair of components into the kick panels, you've pretty much proven yourself to be a fool. I'm not coming to anybody's defense here. I'm just trying to filter out the mounds of bull****, but this one's starting to pile up too fast for me to keep caring.

Have you ever used the "$100 parts express special" to know what it even is? The Dayton drivers are extremely high quality drivers, but you're under the mistaken impression that if it isn't $700 and coming from a "major player" then it must be junk. It simply isn't so. That Dayton sub was designed to be used in very high-end home subwoofer systems, just like the Shiva and Tempest. Just like the Shiva and Tempest, the car audio guys found out just how incredibly good the sub sounds and how loud it gets, but unlike the car audio world where marketing and flashy logos rule the roost, they were able to get a smoking deal, because the sub was originally designed to cater to a croud that isn't willing to fall victim to silly marketing.

Dude... think before you speak.

 

from my experiences most reputable sub companies have available optins on their subs that not many people know about. Its just a matter of asking for it when you order the sub. For instance, Atomic and Treo are available in octoVC configurations of any impedence. You can also order some Treo 10's with the motor structure of an 18 etc

many companies such as earthquake, visonik, us amps, and mmats will modify their amps in house before they send them to you. Either to accept higher voltages or to play at a lower impedence

 

Atomic and Treo aren't what I'd call a "big player". Try to order a Solobarac with quad coils. I guarantee that you or I can't get the same subs & amps that Alma has in her Bronco.

I'm not disputing that you can get custom stuff from some companies, but the "big name" companies like Rockford and Kicker aren't offering those modifications to Tom Dick and Harry.

 

the gates edition 10L7s were produced in limited numbers available for the general public a few years ago

 

:werd:

I still have to think there was something else in the setup that caused a difference if there was any. I'm not saying that you're trying to bs me or anything, or to flame, just a friendly argument. I don't understand a pair of subs ran in stereo giving any kind of overall sound quality increase in this type of environment. But hey, all that matters is that you're happy, and if you're happy with it set up that way then more power to ya. Just doesn't make sense to me is all.

 

FyreLance, yeah I'm going to try both, as any one would to see what sounds better. But I know of alot of the recordings I listen to, the drums are recorded differently. For instance, one band, Morbid Angel's drummer(seeing that I'm a drummer I know this) records his first few toms on the right channel, and last few toms on the left channel, giving you this surround sound effect, and without stereo sound, you won't get the surround effect. Also alot of Deep Purple has the drums set up differently, and guitar solos and the bass guitar come in under different channels, which won't give you that same 3D type of effect with a mono-bridged sub. But I'll be sure to try out both ways, stereo and bridged, to see what will work better.

 

i guess if you're planning to run them in stereo you will want as much space in between the subs as possible in the box. So you have a more defined right and left channel

 

I understand what you're saying bro, about the drums being recorded on different channels, but what I'm saying is that I don't think that your ears could differentiate the difference between your left sub playing and your right sub playing anyway. The deeper a note is the harder it is to localize and hear "where" it's coming from. Especially in an environment like a car. Any kind of "surround effect", if that's what you want to go for in a car audio system, is going to be defined by higher frequencies than your sub plays anyway.

Just my $.02

 

Thanks for your $.02, it will go to good use. You have a good point, most bass is felt as opposed to heard, that is the principle that the bass shakers from Aura work off of. I just bought a pair of these too, I'm not sure what I'll use them for though. Since I've been playing the drums for about 13 years of my life, and can play damn near anything, from Dream Theatre, to Dying Fetus, to Louie Belson, or anything else for that matter. There are alot of frequencies that drums can produce, and some of them aren't felt but heard, so its weird sometimes depending on what each drummer uses. Yes it may be hard to differentiate what is what from the drums, but I'll experiment and see what sounds the best.

 

i think most people put them under their seats

 

Yeah but I don't think I'll use them in the car, the woofers are obviously going to pound harder than they bass shakers, I'll probably use them in the house, or under my drum throne or computer chair for gaming. Oh yeah, I'm using a divider in the box, anyway, so the spacing won't be as important, but I'm going to use the Q alignment for placement.

 

Whatever floats your boat chief. If you think that a high-sq system is as easy as throwing a pair of components into the kick panels, you've pretty much proven yourself to be a fool. I'm not coming to anybody's defense here. I'm just trying to filter out the mounds of bull****, but this one's starting to pile up too fast for me to keep caring.
______ didnt say that was all that was to it but it is VERY simple. And i didnt say the $100 parts ex sub was junk i said it wasnt a spl comp sub and it never will be. Sure some noodle will think it is but when he comes up against someone with a real comp (spl) sub he'll look like a fool with a walkman and a pair of headphones in his car compaired to a real spl system. Once again if people read the post they'd understand things better.

 

Are you referring to me as a fool and a noodle? Your a funny guy! You should mind your manners son! Mr spl, I don't give a flying hoot about a spl sub, I never did, and I never said that my dayton was an spl sub, I don't care what an spl sub is, cause I don't plan on going in on competitions any time soon. I have two f-bodies, this stereo is for the IROC, and it will sound great and still destroy any other stereo in my area, and then some. I'm not going to pull up to someone with a stereo thats better than myne, because they won't have one better than myne, catch my drift. No-one around here knows anything about serious stereo's or soundstages for that matter, they have there stuff installed at some crappy place for lots of money. I'm not going to spend huge amounts of money on spl subs as you are into, there a waste of my damn time. I'll put my money into my 89 formula's motor, drivetrain and other such things that go with it like a roll cage, racing seats and NHRA safety requirements, a ten second street car on motor is far more impressive than a loud *** stereo. Accelerating to 130+ mph in less than 11 seconds is impressive to me.