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spl breaking the hatch?

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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 02:07 AM
  #1  
unbonyr's Avatar
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spl breaking the hatch?

how much actual spl or pressure do you need to break the hatch or blow the window becuase im going to be getting a setup where im looking at around 150 dbs and i just want to know has anyone actually broke there back hatch before and also im going to be running around 2000rms watts through 0 gauge and i've heard of the "big 3" helping but with that much watts i think im going need some more help so i was going to run 2 caps and that should deffinatly do the trick with dimming and all that what do you guys think
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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 10:05 AM
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From: North --RI
Car: 92 caddy PIMP
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: i dunno
unless its the winter time. OR you have a hole or something in your hatch it wont happen. Comp cars use thick plexiglass cuz they run like 170 DB or something.
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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 01:17 PM
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9177's Avatar
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From: Topeka
Comp car run thick glass because they are completly sealed. The hatch and windows will let let the air pass by the gaskets before the pressure would build enough to break the glass.
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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 01:59 PM
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From: North --RI
Car: 92 caddy PIMP
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: i dunno
ya...good point. I never thought that sound could actually ever break glass. I thought sound cars did it incase knicks in the glass/to keep the sound in...

this whole im gonna shatter my hatch has been discussed to death in many forums. You wont be breaking glass anytime soon....Like I said it might be possible if hotair/cold air mix and u got like a crack in it already even then it wont break right away. Itll more then likely do it a while after you have left the car sit.
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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 04:34 PM
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traksta15's Avatar
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From: Savanna, Ok
Car: on the hunt for a 3rd gen again
don't use caps. do the big 3, if u still need help, get a new HO alt., if u still need help get a 2nd battery......what equip u gonna use in ur quest for 150??
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 06:30 AM
  #6  
ddn69's Avatar
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From: North --RI
Car: 92 caddy PIMP
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: i dunno
HO alternators are good. Buy one before u buy 2 caps...
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 12:33 AM
  #7  
unbonyr's Avatar
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3 ROCKFORD FOSGATE PUNCH STAGE 3 12" SUBS MY FREIND HAS 2 IN A FIBERGLASS BOX IN A MONTE CARLO AND HIT 148 WITH A 25FARAD CAP BOX AND 1080 WATTS RUNNING TO THEM AND THERE RATED AT 500 RMS EACH THERE SOME BADASS SUBS AND A HELL LOT CHEAPER THEN KICKER L7'S THAT MY OTHER FREIND HAS HE HAS 3 BUT HASN'T GOT TESTED YET BUT WHEN I COMPARE EACH SUB THE ROCKFORDS ARE ALMOST EXCACTLY THE SAME IN LOUDNESS TO THE L7 BUT ALOT MORE CLEANER
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 12:22 PM
  #8  
ddn69's Avatar
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From: North --RI
Car: 92 caddy PIMP
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: i dunno
still wont be breaking hatches anytime soon....I hope your question was answered
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 12:22 PM
  #9  
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From: North --RI
Car: 92 caddy PIMP
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: i dunno
...
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 11:45 PM
  #10  
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From: Savanna, Ok
Car: on the hunt for a 3rd gen again
P3>L7??not in my opinion anyway....the p3's are the lowest rf i would buy, (the T series are really good i hear) but 3 p3's wont break your hatch, but it will give u some loud bump. i'd look into some other subs in the same price range (what did u pay, or what will you pay for them).........
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 01:14 PM
  #11  
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From: MA, USA
Car: 83 bird
Engine: 305/383
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
I, nor anyone at the install place I go to, have NEVER heard of a hatch blowing; unless it was cracked.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 12:41 AM
  #12  
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thanks for the help i getting them really cheap 125 a sub and they retail for like 250 but i changed my mind and im going get 2 15in p3 instead but i can get alot of subs for really cheap so what other subs you have in mind that are better then the p3 for around 250 a sub i can get almost anything except like jl audio's, and some alpines but good brands i can or like some orions, jbl, kicker, mtx, audiobahn, image dynamics, some phionex gold, polk but does any one have image dynamics idq series subs becuase i can get the idq 15" about the same price as the 15" p3 and i heard the idq have great sound quailty and hit super low also the elemental deigns 15" kv2 are super cheap like 180 bucks for the pair lower then the p3 or idqs for the pair so hit me back thanks alot
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 05:32 PM
  #13  
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From: South Carolina
Car: 91 Caprice Wagon
Engine: L03
Transmission: soon to be T56
You guys do realize that the hatch glass can't be cracked?

It is tempered glass, it is either whole or shattered.

I love to get guys in the shop that tell me they have a buddy that blew out a windshield or door glass with anything.

I also have installed auto glass for a living, and let's just say it isn't easy to break anyway.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 05:38 PM
  #14  
ddn69's Avatar
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From: North --RI
Car: 92 caddy PIMP
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: i dunno
pretty much the point I was saying...Hatch glass isnt exactly easy to break especially with just sound....Anyway I didnt know that u cudnt crack a hatch...I guess u learn something new everyday....
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 02:31 PM
  #15  
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
The thickness and the curves on the glass it's going to be pretty hard. You'll easily blow out your hatch seal right by the pull down unit first. If you ever look at that gasket it has a split already in that spot from being produced. I blew that gasket within the first week of my install. Needless to say once that went so did most of the sound pressure.

There was an old Audio Shop *cough Pawn Shop* here that has since went out of business. They tried telling me 18s would not work out in a hatch, since they've blown the hatch with brackets clean off a 3rd gen car with a pair of 15s. Kinda really makes you wonder why they went out of business.
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 09:22 PM
  #16  
ddn69's Avatar
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From: North --RI
Car: 92 caddy PIMP
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: i dunno
haha. indeed never listen to anyone.
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