i have this sub, have had it for like 4 yrs. it is a pioneer Injection Molded Polly Prophalene (sp) sub. 450W peak 150RMS. it is a 12" sub. the model # is TS-W302F.

i searched pioneers site, nothing. i emailed pioneer, nothing. i searched this board, somthing funny, but not usefull.

if anyone knows what the airspace requirement is on this sub i would like to know. the back of the magnet lists it as a "freeair" series sub. whatever....

i am building a well box and want to make it as small as possible. unless i can get away with putting it in the spare tire cubby, but i doubt that a twelve will go in there with much success.

thanks a bunch guys

 

you could fit 1 12" sub in the well down under the lock mechanism IF you can make the baffle big enough to fit down there AND hold a 12" sub......i think i calculated around 1 cubes (give or take .3-4) below the lock.........do a search for "8 in. subs" and look at the one with the 2 8" sony subs (a well box w/a slanted baffle) its a design that lets you fit a 12" sub and not take up your whole well........

 

oh i know how to build the box, i just need to know how small i can make the box and not ruin this sub. i can do th emath and make the box as small as possable when i am done.

so if anyone knows the airspace requirements that would rock.

 

well i just got off the phone with pioneer customer service. the guy says since it's a "free air" sub they do not have an airspace recomendation. so what do 12" 150W rms subs usualy require? and what will happen if i give it too much or not enough?

 

not enough power=unfulfilled potential (less performance)
too much power=in some cases you can damage the sub, but most subs can take more than the recommended power (manufacturers give an rms that will give you performance and will be less likely to damage the sub, meaning less customer complaints, less warranty work). The subs power handling is determined by the box size....smaller boxes yield less efficency, but greater power handling (takes more power to do a job, but it is able to take more power) Larger boxes yield greater efficency and lower power efficiency (can't take as much power but doesn't need gobs of power to perform)

In most applications, you won't be able to tell an audible difference when it comes to power (throwing 600 watts to a 500rms sub vs. throwing 400watts at it)

i don't know if you know what "free air" means but ill explain just in case.......some subs are suited for ported boxes, some sealed, others free air (most subs can be ran in ported or sealed, but not all can be in free air), but free air is with just a baffle and no box at all, correct me if im wrong but they were made for people who don't want a box taking up their trunk so they can mount them in the rear deck (like in a sedan)..........I hope i answered your questions, if not just let me know.........



p.s. you might want jim here cause he seems to have a grasp on most things car audio here...........

 

even a free air sub would sound better and hit harder in a box.... right?

the reason i have the free air sub is that it was only 50 bux. i purchased it from my brother.

 

It will defantly sound better in a box, but it might need more power because it's probably pretty stiff.

Search baffle board to see what people have to say about those. Most everyone hates them.

 

wouldent a mistuned box sound leaps and bounds better then the best baffle board?

 

it would right?

 

build a box and you'll get WAY better sound vs. a baffle..........

 

baffle board is crap. spring for a box please.

 

cool, that is absolutly what i wanted to hear. so for the average 12 how much airspace do i need. the jerks at alpine say its a freeair seiries so there is no airspace requirement. so how big should i make this box?

 

as far as a box goes......just build one that suits your musical needs as well as your cargo area.......

 

Fs(hz)..... 33.4
Qms....... 17.754
Vas (L)... 105.62
Qes........ .494
Qts......... .481

 

wow.... cool. thanks a heap man. does anyone know how to convert those numbers into required airspace?

 

You're welcome

Link to a couple general (free) programs..
http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/4970/software.htm

 

Without converting the numbers, or hearing the sub, I would say in general that you'd want 1.0-1.5 cubic feet per 12" sub-woofer. In general that is.

People say you need to match the box perfectly, but in all honesty, I've heard under-sized enclosures(trucks), and also over-sized(cadillacs and such,) and they are about the same. The larger enclosures tend to have deeper bass and sound *slightly* more 'sloppy' to me, while the smaller enclosures have a tighter, but not as deep of a response. It all has to do with the resistance on the sub, and a bigger box has less resistance because there is more air to compress.

If you are talking about a single 12" sub then basically just make the box look good and functional for whatever purpose you have in mind, (t-tops, groceries, smuggling, etc.) You can't go wrong, really.

Good luck.

 

oh yeah, if you want to maximize the output of your woofer, try designing the box so the sub is rear-firing.

 

would streight up work well too? oh and thanks for that link by the way, i will try it out a bit later.

 

upward-facing subs have the tendancy to amplify the higher-end bass frequencies...

if you have a good eq you can counter for all of this though.

for example, I have a single 10" in a wedge truck box, if I put it in my well, it seems to have almost DEEPER bass than my 2 15"s that are upward-facing. Because the bass wave has a longer distance to reflect.

If I were making another box by scratch, there's no doubt about it, I'd make a dual 15" rear-facing box.

 

rear facing. cool.

is this correct?

 

I have no idea, really... but make the box as big as you can and I bet you'll be fine.

 

but i don'r want it to sound sloppy, i like a good tight response.

 

It's not going to sound sloppy unless you port it, or make it rediculously-big... which is impossible in an automobile...

you'd have to pretty much fill an entire truck bed to make a box too big for a single 12"

even then I bet it would sound amazing.

 

good to know. the only reason i want to make it so small is that i would like to preserve enough storage space as i can.

 

As I've said before, make the box the way you want it... it won't affect the sound TOO much unless you go wildly small, or rediculously big... If you need to make it smaller for some reason, go ahead. Trust me it's not as big of a deal as you might think. Still, I might add, in our cars, bigger is still better, bass-wise.

Good luck, and are you thinking of making a half-well box so you can still sit stuff on top? I had a setup like this for a while. I had the amps underneath the box, and down-firing subs.... sounded pretty good. If I could've re-made the box, I'd have designed it so the subs face to the rear. Then I'd make the tails rattle-proof.

 

you dont have plans or a technical drawing or measurements for it, do you? i would love to not have to start from scratch (well there is that sticky. so not from scratch)

 

Sorry, I don't have any of that stuff.