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sound deadening

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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 08:43 PM
  #1  
BlueZee28's Avatar
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From: O'Fallon, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
sound deadening

what's the best, cheapest way to sound deading my interior, without going out and buying a ton of Dyno Mat...that stuff is real pricey.

is there a way of just putting double stick tape in between the speaker covers and the holes that they sit in? or any other way to get rid of rattles? i've had my system for 2 years and over time my car has gotten more and more rattles...
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 09:47 PM
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From: Or-eh-gun
Car: 2012 Nissan Leaf
Engine: 80-kW AC synchronous electric motor
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: n/a
if your speakers are rattling the double-sided foam tape might work out. only if your speakers are rattling, the rest of your cheap plastic interior will need a once over.... that will take a long time.
good luck
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
There are a bunch of products that function the same as dynamat and are literally 1/6th the price. Second skin, raam mat, and eDead are all examples.

There are also paint on options. eDead seems to be the best bet here. Here's what eDead looks like after it's applied:



The best part is that you can paint it on. I'm seriously thinking about doing my doors/floor with it then layering on some mat. Also, check out the videos of the stuff that ED has on their website. It's amazing.

If you do a search you will find a ton of threads on this topic.
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally posted by Xophertony
if your speakers are rattling the double-sided foam tape might work out. only if your speakers are rattling, the rest of your cheap plastic interior will need a once over.... that will take a long time.
good luck
Sticking raam mat where very joint is (between the two pannels) eliminated all my interior squeaks. My dash is 100% quiet now, my tail lights don't rattle, etc. Now if only I could find time to install my new door pins and rebuild my hatch pull down motor The best part is that I have the parts sitting right in front of me.
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 10:33 PM
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From: okotoks Alberta
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: T-56 LT1
Axle/Gears: 3.42
went to rona (equivalent to home \depot?) go to the roofing section and you will see rubber roofing material in 1 meter by 10 meter rolls. (3 feet by 33 feet) its for 'waterproofing' NON steep roofs. and RV's same as dynomat. I think i saw it 100 bucks candian for 100sq ft basically. buck a sq. foot. as compared to dynomat........... these are canadian prices
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 10:34 PM
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BlueZee28's Avatar
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From: O'Fallon, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
the thing is, the only place that rattles is the rear speaker covers...i can turn up my system and hear the rattling directly behind me.

when i put my hand over the covers, the rattling magically disappears!!! LOL

so either it's new covers or double stick tape or any other things you guys can think of that are cheap
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 09:25 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
double sided 1" wide 1/8" thick FOAM tape. Put it on the rear speaker plates (that's the part that rattles right?) then reinstall it back in place. Rubber washers below the screw heads could help as well. (o-rings, UHMW washers, whatever you can find.)

as far as deadening, i'm shocked no one mentioned it yet, (is it a dirty word now?) Peel-n-seal.
same stuff blake was talking about, but you can only buy it in USA.

by the way, blake, you know what brand that stuff was? in my local rona/home depot places, there roofing section is barren aside from shingles. Nothing "sticky" at all. Had to make a trip to USA to get 6 rolls of peel-n-seal.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 08:08 PM
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From: lexington, ky
Car: 91 camaro 305 tbi
Engine: 305 tbi l03
Transmission: 700r4
the stuff at the building supply ware houses is called peal and seal and theres some called ice guard....dirt dirt cheap i got enough to do two cars twice over for like 30 or 40 dollars or something
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 08:24 PM
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From: Oregon
Car: 94 Trans Am
Engine: LT-!
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I have heard of problems with peal and seal. The asphalt based stuff I heard is smelly for a while and sometimes has problems sticking for a long time. I am going with Raamat for mine. If you need more info on stereos check out elitecaraudio.com. A lot of knowledgeable people there.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 08:58 PM
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Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
it's all ashphault based. raam, dynamat, brown bread, peel n seal. They have the same properties.
I used a heat gun to put mine on, with a rolling pin, and it's NEVER coming off. Works better if you clean the surface well too, alcohol or brake cleaner works good. (flashes off fast)

mine only smelt when I was using the heat gun to install it, after that the smell is gone.
Perhaps, in a black car, living in arizona, I would recommend against it. But my black car in Calgary should be just fine.
I will definately post back after it's seen a summer outside with it on though, just to back up my jabbering.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 11:45 PM
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally posted by Sonix
it's all ashphault based. raam, dynamat, brown bread, peel n seal. They have the same properties.
I used a heat gun to put mine on, with a rolling pin, and it's NEVER coming off. Works better if you clean the surface well too, alcohol or brake cleaner works good. (flashes off fast)

mine only smelt when I was using the heat gun to install it, after that the smell is gone.
Perhaps, in a black car, living in arizona, I would recommend against it. But my black car in Calgary should be just fine.
I will definately post back after it's seen a summer outside with it on though, just to back up my jabbering.
No sound deadener made for a car is asphalt based. They’re synthetic rubber based (butyl or something else along those lines depending on brand). This means they won’t potentially melt and are odor free.

I would stay away from peal and seal. I’ve heard stories of it detaching its self from roofs over the years. It doesn’t like heat very much and being applied directly to a metal roof is not the best idea.
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 07:22 AM
  #12  
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From: Westminster, MD
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Peal-n-Seal will not hold up as well at high temps as Dynamat or similar. It is however a great cheap alternative if your doing the floor. No bother about it falling off the floor, and should only have an aroma if vary hot and only for a short time, if any.
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 09:36 AM
  #13  
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From: Oregon
Car: 94 Trans Am
Engine: LT-!
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Here is a Sound Deadener Showdown article. lots of info.

Sound Deadener Showdown
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 09:41 AM
  #14  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
oh ok, what I meant is they are all petroleum based. As ashphault and rubber are similarly based.

Yea, we've all "heard about" the guy who had his peel n seal fall off... But no one actually knows someone it's happened to. It's just stories that keep spreading with no proof.

I'm telling you, mine is not coming off, it took a lot of heat from a heat gun to get it soft enough to easily mold, and if that kinda heat is in my car from the sun, i'm long dead.
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 08:43 PM
  #15  
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Your talking your vert rear speaker covers right. use some double sided tape like you thought of.

as for sound deadening stuff. I'll never go back to dynomat etc...

this stuff is awesome...

http://www.coollizard.com/default.html
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 06:53 PM
  #16  
*F-BodyFanatic*'s Avatar
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From: Key West, FL
Car: 1991 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: TBI 5.7L v8
Transmission: Modified T-5
I used FatMat on my car. It's like 89 for a 100 sq ft roll. I did most of my car double over, and had left over pieces. And honestly, it sounds much better after having some deadener, than before. It's definitely worth the money. You'll never see it, but believe me, you should be able to hear the difference!
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:21 PM
  #17  
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From: Dirty Jersey
Originally posted by NHRA427
Here is a Sound Deadener Showdown article. lots of info.

Sound Deadener Showdown
I go by this article's research, and I bought some Damplifier from Second Skin Audio. I'm sold on it, it works great. If you plan on doing two layers, try one layer of Damplifier Pro instead.

Last edited by CaysE; Dec 13, 2005 at 12:45 PM.
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