like the tittle says...

i just purchased a GTA and it came with a JVC KDs5050 cd HU. it works as long as the CDs are PERFECT, but at the slightest nic, scratch dust or breeze it skips.

it also does not eject CDs all the way and somtimes ejects and sucks them back in again, or does not eject at all... this i can live with, the skipping i need to fix.

thanks guys


feel free to ignore the rest of this post as it is an uniteresting story of todays rewire job....
i just completly re-wired, and reinstalled the deck, the previous owner or his shop did a complete HACK JOB on it. they cut out the factory harness and twisted wires together and useda combo of butt connectors, wire nuts and DUCT TAPE to hold things together.... i redid it all with bulit style connectors (so if i replace the HU i don't have to do a ton of work) and otherwise cleaned up the rats nest back there... i wire managed everything. looks a hellofalot nicer.. not as nice as a factory harness with adaptor, but what can you do.

also this was the wierdest thing. the original rear speaker wires were no longer being used, somone ran 24+ guage (tiny) speaker wire to them. i also found some good thick 18GA speaker wire behind the pod, two sets going toward the passanger side along the floorboard (under passangers feet ) but they are not connected to anything. i also could not even find where they ended i replaced the rear speaker wire with some new 18GA.

sorry for the long post, i wanted to vent.

 

Ether dirty optical pickup or just plain bad optical pickup, my money is on bad O/P. You could try to clean it, the 'right' way to do is to take it apart and clean it with a Q-Tip and alcohol. I don't recommend those cleaning disks.

 

i was afraid of that. i hope i can put it back together again...

 

Is it apart already? Real easy. Give me day if it's still together......

 

it's still together.... i'll see about taking it apart after school tonight as i would like to have tunes on the way there... it seems to like my chrystal method CD so i'll be rocking it old school techno style on they way to SE portland.... oh yeah...

 

To start, remove the faceplate. Look to the side of the plastic front cover, you’ll see that each side has clips that hold it to the chassis. There may also be one little black screw on each side, if so remove them/that first. (IIRC You’ll see one little black screw on the left side and nothing but the clips on the right side.) There may also be one little black screw on each side of the connector to the faceplate, but I really don’t think that the S5050 has them. Once that’s off, use a flat blade screw driver to GENTLY pry the bottom off. You should see small flats near the clips that are for the flat blade. Just be gentle, don’t bent the bottom. JVC bottoms never go back on right any way, don’t make it worse. You’ll have a plastic sheet under there, NOTE how it’s on there, DON’T put it back on wrong. After that is off you’ll see two screws in the front corners of the PCB, take these out and note how long there are (They should be the mid-length of the gold screws you’ll see). Around back there will be three screws that need to come out. The right three are on the side with the connector for the harness midway up, near the top middle, and on the side with the antenna jack midway up (not the one closest to the antenna jack). These should be the smallest of the gold screws you’ll see. On to the side with the heat sink, you’ll see three screws. The two on the edges come all the way out, these will be the longest of the gold screws you’ll have. The one in the middle (closer to the back) needs to come all but out. Look down behind the heat sink leave the screw on by just a thread or two. This will keep the heat sink attached to the amp IC so you don’t get thermal compound all over you. The heat sink will try to swing out of the way, just try to keep it over the amp IC, to keep the mess off you hands. Now, the CD mechanism is attach by three screws to the top chassis and plugged into the main PCB. You need to separate the top/CD mech. from the PCB/heat sink/rear panel. You’ll need to GENTLY pry the two parts apart. Note that there are two metal tap on the top chassis that fit into the heat sink. You just need to pry/wiggle the thing apart. Three small screws to take the CD mechanism off of the chassis, these will be the same as the small screws from the back. At this point you’ll be able to HOPEFLULY see down thought the top of the mechanism and see the optical pickup. If not you’ll need to take the top off of the mechanism. To do this take the four screws, two per side out, note how the top plate goes in front/behind the mech. chassis. Lift the front of the plate and it will pivot back, note how it interlocks in the back. NOW you’ll be able to see the pickup.
To clean use a Q-Tip and lightly dampen with denatured alcohol. Wipe the lens of the optical pickup GENTLY GENTLY GENTLY with small circular motions starting in the center and working you way to the outside of the lens. This will minimize the chances of (invisible to you) streaks that could affect the laser light coming back through/into the optical pickup. GENTLY, there are four vary fine wires that hold the lens and hold it on-plane with the disk. DON’T bend these.
To reassemble, read backwards…
It’s a lot of time for just a cleaning, but it’s really the only way to really clean the lens. The cleaning discs use a little wiper to ‘sweep off’ the lens. Doesn’t do as good a job, and I’ve seen them knock the lens off of the pickup, not good. I don’t like them.

 

To hell with JVC. I had a KDS550, I think it worked ok in one car, transfered it over to the Camaro and thing wouldn't accept ANY CD's what so ever, just spit them out.

I said to hell with it for a while, couple of days ago I bought an used Alpine and have no regrets, better sound, WAY BETTER bass.

 

i am going to be buyng a "real" deck with necisary features like indepently controlled highpass and lopass filters for EACH preout set. this will (hopefully) be the last deck i ever buy. i just want to play cd's until then. this deck IS NOT A PERMANENT THING. it does not even have a lowpass filter for the preouts

 

though i did not quite follow them to the letter i found needaz' directions verry helpfull. it's all back together and seems to be going fine

 

Working good then? Good news.

 

yeah, i am going to put it in my 86... the broken pehd650 is going in my 88. the faceplate does not work, so i am realy hoping the lopass filtering is allready on by default in the sw out.

 

Hope it stays that way. Unfortunately if the pickup is getting weak cleaning it just made it easier to do it's job, but the pick may still be on the way out. Hope not for you. With out having at least a 150MHz scope, or a jitter meter, or knowing how to determine lazar power, there's not much you can do but try. Let it play for an hour or two and see if after things have heated up it's more sensitive to shock.

 

it's going into my 86 that i am selling... i will probably never play it again. i will just have to make the new owner aware that it has been cleaned recently but is probably on it's way out.

thanks for all the help with these decks