Alright, i have a 85 firebird:

I have the wiring colors for

in dash:

12V ignition wire: Yellow
12V Battery wire: Orange

on deck:
12V ignition wire: Red
12V Battery wire: Yellow

from: Http://installdr.com/

so...I connect the 12V ignition wire in the dash (yellow) to the 12V ignition wire on the deck (red)

I connect the 12V battery wire in the dash (orange) to the 12V battery wire on the deck (yellow).

The deck does not work. I have checked all fuses.

The deck DOES work however when i use the 12V ignition on the dash (yellow) and connect it to the 12V battery wire (yellow).
And vice versa.

My problems:

Deck won't turn on when i start car
Bad reception
Memory doesn't save on the deck

Help?

Thanks guys.

 

I would guess you don't have the stock harness. DVM are the way to go.

 

Hi,
Just wanted to chime in. Sounds like the factory orange wire(12V constant) is not working. It is on the same fuse as the Cigarette lighter. The most basic tool you can get to help you is a computer safe test light. They are available at most parts stores for cheap $. Use a test light to verify the constant power(orange) and ACC power(Yellow, switches off during cranking) I am assuming you are using the factory black wire for the ground (hooked to the deck's black wire) otherwise it might be grounding through the antenna. That would also cause bad reception as the deck grounding through the antenna causes internal grounding problems with the tuner. I recommend making a new clean (scrape paint off) ground somewhere inside the radio cavity. The factory ground is shared by alot of other electrical stuff in the car and can cause ground loop noise when adding an amp to a system. Ground loop noise is static and whine that changes with engine rpm. Don't forget to check the fuse box for bad fuses if you don't have power at the factory wires (radio fuse=yellow wire, dome/cig lighter fuse=orange wire) If after all that, you still have bad reception, try hooking a new antenna to the radio (just held in hand) if it is better, then install it.
Hope this helps,
Randy

 

2fast4u ->
Could you explain that further?
What do i do to test it with the multimeter?

randy ->

My other radio worked when i had it installed, and I checked all of the fuses. Is the fuse that is for the a 10 amp? I am missing a 10 amp fuse in my fuse box, could that be it? I can't put one in there though because the metal clips that hang onto the fuse are gone. (how did that happen?)

I am going to go test the cigarette lighter and see if thats working.

And yes, i am using the black wired ground.

 

Ok, I tested the cigarette lighter, and it indeed works.

Also, the reception I am getting, is like my antenna is not getting enough power, because it just isn't very powerful, the range that is. It gets good reception when i am near a radio tower that broadcasts it. I used to get VERY good reception. Not even close now. I don't think its just engine noise.

hmmm...

 

with a meter on DC and the black lead on any good ground put the red meter lead on yellow and it should show 0.00V then turn the key and it should show 12.xxV. And put the red meter lead on orangeand it should have 12v all the time. Also it a wire have 12V or not try head lights and dimmer so you don't get the wrong one and burn up a circut. But soulds like you don't have switched 12v that is it auto turning on with key but main power in memory. And the radio shouldn't turn on with only one power wire needs red(s12v) and yellow and black.

 

Yes, the radio should be a 10 amp fuse.
I have seen people use fuse taps that wrap around the fuse and cause the contacts to spread open. Thus, when the tap is removed the fuse no longer stays in. If you cannot see any contacts in there at all, maybe that location is actually empty from the factory, or the contacts have actually pushed into the fuse box (highly unlikely). \
I have the wiring diagram and scan it for you if needed. It shows the actual fuse locations in the fuse box.
Randy

 

Ok, but the radio shouldn't work if the yellow and the orange wires don't work correct? Plus, the cigarette lighter does work, so the fuse obviuosly isn't whats doing it. I will put a multimeter up to it and see what i can find out.

 

yeah like I said it also shouldn't work unless you have power and switched b/c it wouldn't know to turn on. It would be funny if it was a ground.

 

Ok, yeah i put the red part of the multimeter on a ground, and the black on the orange wire of the car, and I blew a fuse. Wouldn't I continue to blow fuses if i keep testing like that?

 

1. Why would you use it backwards? Black = ground
2. You're using the meter incorrectly if you blew the fuse. I'm guess you have the red lead in the wrong spot on the meter since most have separate spots when measuring current and voltage.

 

Ok, I see what i did wrong (hooked black up to a hot wire)
Anyways, the orange in the deck has power 100% of the time, thus that should be my memory, correct?

And I hooked my yellow wire (It says 12V memory on my deck diagram) to the orange wire.
And I hooked my red wire on my deck (12V ignition on deck diagram) to the yellow wire in my car.

Doesn't work when I start car, doesn't work when i turn back the key.
It still works when I have yellow-yellow and orange-red.

?!?!?

 

Please under stand that for your uses the way the meter was doesn't matter it would show -12.00V meaning the (-) as the leads are backwards. But if you are saying the wire tested is power all the time then yes it is constant. worst cast grab power or acc from many very close spots like cig, lighter or main ignition. On loder cars I like the acc wire on the radio to go to a ignition not a acc so when the key is turned the amps don't cycle on/off/on every time.

I am a certified master instsaller. I know what I am saying!