The previous owner decided it was necessary for some odd reason to remove the 12volt constant wire from the stereo. How can I replace/run a new one so I can hook up my stereo the right way. Sometimes people should think before they remove wires that they dont know what they do. of course im assuming this is the same guy who removed the stereo an cut off the wires instead of removing the harness plug. its an 82 z28 by the way. Thanks

would it be easiest to run a fuse wire from the battery to my head unit or should i splice another constant? if slicing where would the closet one be?

 

that probably would be the best thing to do as long as you're using an igntion wire as the remote source...

 

The easy way would be to use a wiretap to the cigarette lighter wire.Running a wire from the battery is just exta work.or you can tap the trunk release.

 

the previous owner decided to pull the cigarette lighter along with its wire as well. I really dont know why but i guess he really didnt wanna smoke lol. And there isnt a trunk release it only opens from the trunk keyhole which i also have to replace since it is disconnected from the inside so it wont unlock but i already got what i need to fix that.

 

oops double post

 

I'm not sure, I *found* a Orange/Black constant wire with a connector clip on the end in my center console, just sitting there, right behind the shifter. I'm not sure what it goes to, but the orange wire is a 12v constant, I spliced that for my amplifier remote switch since the one on my head-unit was bad, and also for my torque converter 12v switch.

Another idea is to get a 12-14ga wire, and run it from the battery to the center console, and use it to splice many things into, so you only have to run 1 wire.

 

The guy who owned your car must be related to the guy who owned my car. He put in an aftermarket clarion stereo that was shot by the time I bought the vehicle. When I finally got around to replacing it with a Kenwood MP435U(very nice stereo for the $$$), i noticed that he hadn't used a harness adapter, he had just cut out the original harness and spliced the Clarion harness in with electrical tape. He didn't have any constant power hooked up either, but had somehow found a second ignition wire to run it, so needless to say, when I hooked up my stereo, the memory wouldn't work at all, since it was resetting every time you turned the key off. Not only that, but he had all the speakers wired bass ackwards. I got everything straightened out, and ran a new wire with a fusible link to the battery, which was a LOT easier than I had anticipated. I ran it through the passenger side kick panel, through the fender, up into the hood, and across the engine bay around the engine to the battery. It was a generally painless installation, other than having to do all the wiring in the cramped car. I prefer to hook up wiring harnesses to the adapters at my kitchen table, then go out and plug and play. The sucky thing about this was that when I purchased my stereo from Best Buy, I only did it because they promise free installation. When they saw the hell on earth that the previous owner created, they told me it would be $100 just for a special adapter, plus labor. I told them to **** off, then went home and did it myself. In retrospect, it's probably a good thing I did it, rather than letting some idiot **** it up. What a way to do your first stereo installation. The stereos i've installed for friends and family since then have been a breeze. Just put a new clarion in my friend's 95 formula. VERY EASY, excep the bought the wrong DIN adapter, so it wouldn't fit the first time.

 

There is no reason to go straight to the battery for constant power.Get out a test light and just tap a constant power source. Do it right the first time there is no need to go straight to the battery.