So I got this sub right now

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...04-10C104.html

and
wanted to purchase this amp:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PZA1400.2.html

would this be good?what do you guys think?or do you guys have any better recommendations?my budget is $100 for an amp preferably 2-channel.

 

That is way too much amp... I would try to find a Class D name brand amp if I were you...

 

Its way too much junk.

 

Find something quality and used if $100 is your budget.

 

really??well Ima look more into what would be a good RMS to run my sub @?

 

That sub, something that puts out an honest 150-250wrms @ 13.5v

 

is there any way you can point me out to some good amps?

 

I am also looking at this one..

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...GPV-800.2.html

I just really dont want a used one.

 

Again, junk.

Like I said, used is your best bet with that kind of budget, you can get something that originally cost 250-300, and is actually quality.

 

hmm...i understand well ima hit up Craigslist and hopefully i find something good...=)

 

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-6249-mrp...amplifier.aspx

Thats about the cheapest something new, realistically.

You'd be doing great looking for something like a JL250/1

Old soundstream reference

older kicker or fosgate also.

 

hmmm...i see.......becuase I am currently running a kenwood KAC-729S and it doesnt seem to "bump"

 

I actually have that amp in my Subaru and it isn't too bad at all.

You could check Amazon and buy a used amp from there...

 

Do some research / learning !

Z28ricer is just trying to help you NOT purchase something that is junk ! GOOD car audio equipment is pretty much timeless, buy once and you'll be happier !

~DaVe

 

Try to find something that has about 75-150 watts RMS. The amps you listed do not give that information. (This is very important to know to help match with your speakers/subs). That is a sure fire way to know that they are not what you really want. They probably are not giving a good clear sound signal which would result in a poor sounding bass.
I reccommend getting an amp that would be bridgeable if 2 channel and be rated at about 1/2 - full RMS of your sub bridged to 4 ohms (ohms of your single sub). If putting in two subs then 2 ohms bridged stable.
You do not need to be powering the subs to max all the time at low volume so the RMS needs to be below the max power of the Sub.
I did full RMS on my truck and wish I would have gotten a smaller amp.
This allows alot of flexibility after install with the gain and Sub controls in the stereo (assuming it has one) to get the right amount of bass.
However keep in mind that everyone has there own way of choosing the right power amp for their application. This works very well for me.
BTW I did buy a used amp for my truck and have been very happy with it.

 

alright cool thank you for the info....so about 4 ohms at 200-250 watts RMS would be good to run my single 10" kicker sub?

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-R125-2.html
or
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-11D125.2.html

Both are decent apms that will slightly underpower that sub for $100.
Both Amps are rated for 125watt @ 4ohm RMS bridged
The Speaker is rated for 150watt @ 4ohm RMS

 

Kenwood X500-1 and KAC-8105D are both really good amps that will power that sub really well. They are both under 150$, and are about the cheapest name brand amps in that power class that you can get that will still perform well.

They both will have no problem powering another sub if you decide to upgrade as well. I have had both in my cars at home. Right now I have the X500-1 powering my clarion WQ3010D in my DD wired to 2ohms and it hits very very hard.

I have also had the KAC-8105D hooked up to a Kenwood KFC-W12PS then upgraded to a CVR124.

None of them hit harder than the clarion/kenwood combo. None of them have been in the camaro either because I do not run a sound system in it :P

 

I've seen these for as low as $110. Wayyyyyy better.
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...fiers/KAC-8405
If you just want a mono sub amp with real power, then the KAC-8105D might interest you. You'd be happier in the long run I think.

 

I found this real nice alpine but would this be enough...sorry for all the "dumb" questions....


http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/3323249461.htmli
v
e already contacted the buyer and he is willing to ship to me for $100 im trying to see if I can get it lower...

 

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/3323249461.html

 

That first "Crunch" Amp link, I didn't even see any RMS numbers... just "max" You can't go by that "max" number it is a made up / estimate... You need RMS numbers...

And having a bit more RMS than your speakers can handle is better than just below... this way, you can take your speaker to 75 watts of clean power, since your amp has it, but if you get a 50 Watt RMS amp, then after that, it starts to distort / clip / damage speaker...

A cross over (in the deck or amp) is also great in making your speakers sound better and live longer...

My "budget" system includes the nicest most expensive Pioneer 6.75 (yes, not 6.5) separates, they sound great.... I bout some "Boss" amps (the budget part), they were more than the Crunch amps, and have more RMS than the speakers I'm using.... Been running that system for 3+ years, no problems with amps or speakers... sounds great, can get loud and it works...

Rafael

 

ohhh i see now thank for the info ill take that into consideration.

 

Just keep in mind, like others have pointed out, TRUE RMS power is what you're after, combined with that at a low rated input voltage, and a low THD, the cheap/crap amps will give you a giant MAX or "peak" rating, generally at a high input voltage (much higher than your alternator will put out) and a high THD, making for inflated numbers, when at a reasonable listening level they'll put out squat.

Long ago my gfs brother at the time had a "500W" amp, iirc it was boss, it may have been something different, it didnt hit very hard hooked up to his two subs, I dropped my fosgate (back then they made awesome powerplants), 200a4 into his trunk and just hooked his subs up to one side of the amp, it proceeded to make his amp look like the pile of doo-doo it was, after that he got the picture.

Always remember, companys that use inflated "peak" power values, high input voltages, and high rated THD, RUN, run far away.