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Fixed amp problem

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Old 10-14-2000, 12:48 AM
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
Fixed amp problem

I think I finally found out why I was going through Kicker DX700 amps (See post titled Kicker amp problems?????)
After the shop talked to the kicker tech guy, all they could come up with was high voltage, or damaged cable to the remote gain. My charging system was putting out 14.8 volts when cold. After warming up, it would drop down to where it should be. Then I sprayed it with water to cool it, and the voltage went up.
Well I replaced it with the spare I had, and all is well so far. I think one of the diodes may have been shorting and passing some A/C in the circuit
I also replaced the RGX cable.
Hopefully this will take care of it!

------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
Old 10-14-2000, 01:56 AM
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Hopefully your problem is fixed now BTW, 14.8v is not all that high, considering most alts will be about 14.4-14.5v when cold with a light load on them.

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Old 10-14-2000, 09:06 AM
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Car: 84 Z28
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Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
I didn't think 14.8 was all that high either, especially for a GM, but Kicker said that when you get up around 15 volts, it would cause problems. I'd rather be at the higher voltage, but I want my amp to work also!
One other thing I noticed, with the old alternator, The voltmeter barely moved with bass hits, and now it moves more, (the reason is somewhat obvious) so now I think I need to install a capacitor. Oh well.

------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
Old 10-14-2000, 04:06 PM
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The regulator in alternators are temperature compensated so they'll put out a higher voltage when it is cold. This is to compensate for the higher resistance of batteries when cold so they'll charge properly. The voltage will be gradually reduce as the alternator case warms up.

My CS130 will output about 14.8 volts when it is cold (near freezing) and then level off to about 14.1 - 14.3 volts. The most I've seen it output was 14.9 volts when outside temperature was about 10°F. In the summer (80°+), it'll output at about 14.3 volts with a cold case, then taper off to about 13.9 volts once the case gets hot.

14.8 volts is considered to be an acceptable voltage in an automotive environment. I would suspect changing alternators solved another problem.

Just curious - what is the output voltage now (without a heavy load)?
Old 10-15-2000, 11:38 AM
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Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
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JP84Z,
I've had problems with the ZR600 from day one (which is now 8 months). Very similar symptoms to your other post. I have to drive 5-10 minutes (sometimeslonger) before subs kick on. Like the voltage needs to drop before it will turn on. The same amp has blown 2 Solobaric subs. Never have figured it out. Glad to hear you got yours going!
Later
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