cworsham

I looked on this site for a while before tackling this job but no one had them. Tell me what you think. I can put up a tutorial if you're interested.....

Go Blue

Those look sweet and don't take up much space. How do they sound and did you make them or buy them somewhere?

cworsham

Thanks. They are also super lightweight. They sound great, deep bass with no rattles. Keep in mind that I am running non-comp 12" Pioneers. I would have built them thicker if I chose to use a heavy duty subs.

Go Blue

I usually only do 10" subs in a sealed box as I listen to mostly classic rock, classic metal, or hard rock and i'm mainly looking for the bass drum beat to pound in my chest.

cworsham

These are great sealed enclosures that can deliver a tight thump when tuned properly. They took about $150 in supplies to build but well worth it. Please note that the bass projects best with the hatch closed. Bass is really light if you plan to tailgate with the hatch up.

cdoyle

Looks good!
Are they mounted onto the stock plastics?

One thing you could do, is sand the fiberglass smooth. Then use some bondo to smooth the sub box into the factory plastic. Then take some SEM texture and do the whole thing. When it's done, it would look like like everything is one piece no seams.

It's how I did my kicks, and it looks like a factory piece.

cworsham

The stock plastics were cut to adjoin the sides of the box. They boxes are actually bolted to the body of the car. The thieves will have to work for it.
My original intent was to smooth out the texture with Bondo. Unfortunately, I was pretty exhausted (mentally and financially) by the end so I settled for the fleece texture instead.

I have been trying to think of ways to blend the panels with the boxes better so your suggestions will come in handy. Thanks!

cworsham

I also want to thank you for putting out the Double Din Conversion tutorial. I used it when completing my install. I didn't have a mounting bezel but made some from scrape plexiglass and I used truck bedliner for the texture. The texture is close but not an exact match.

Thanks

Go Blue

cworsham

ideally I would build them up to create a consistent profile then find a way to connect the pieces (screw velcro etc).
FYI-the lights are changed from the outside of the car.

CHRISMAN2000

iTrader: (1)

cworsham

First use a sound deadening material of your choice to line your wells. I went cheap with a homedepot HVAC material. Not the best but works pretty well.

I used card board to build the basic framework for the molds. It also helps to control the shape of the back of the boxes so that they don't get stuck in the tight corners. Use flat pieces of cardboard from the lid seal to the back of the well wall to create an angled back on the box. Otherwise, the mold will be stuck in the car once it hardens.

Use masking tape to shape the mold. Be sure to seal it well or resin will leak through.

Use a sray adhesive to attach aluminum foil over the taped surface. Foil will serve as a release agent when removing the molds.

2-3 layers of fiberglass are usually good enough for the initial mold. You don't want it too thick or stiff before being able to remove it from the car. Once dry, mark the edges with a sharpie for trimming purposes then remove the molds.

I used pencils and wooden dowels as a cheat to stiffen the flat areas of the box. Saves a lot of fiberglass and time. Added an additional two layers of fiberglass after the pencils. To be continued:

cworsham

Trim the edges of your mold based off of your previous markings (check your markings twice cut once). Now it's time to place the mold back in the car and to fit the mounting ring. Close the trunk lid and take note of your clearance. Use whatever you have to brace the ring in position.

Use hot glue and wooden dowels to stabilize the ring. Be sure to check the position of the rings and trunk clearance (lid down) again after the rings are mounted on dowels.

Cover the front of the mold and ring with fleece or Tshirt fabric. Note: Tshirt fabric provides a smoother texture but absorbs less resin. Stretch the fabric of your choice over the surface and be sure to remove all wrinkles. Hot glue the fabric in place starting at the ring and stretch outward. Apply resin to fabric surface but leave the ring opening dry so that it can be cut free once hardened. Sorry I used the photo of different box but you get the idea.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

I've watched this process any number of times, but it's always fun to see it again, especially when it's F-body specific.

cworsham

After attaching and coating the fabric you will want to add 3 or more layers of fiberglass to the face of the box for added strength. You can add these layers to the inside or outside of the box. I chose the inside because I didn't want to smooth out the surface afterwards. You can seal the inside of the box with a final cream coat of activated Bondo & fiberglass resin, mixed 50/50.

Packing popcorn is great for measuring and comparing volume between boxes. The passenger box will yield a much larger box so you can balance the volume by spraying small amounts of expandable foam inside the bottom of the larger box. Spray what you need until both boxes hold the same amount of popcorn. You can easily cut the foam away if you use too much. Now you are ready to paint or carpet, add subs and install!