f-body boxes
whats up man, I know im not jason but I just thought id help because nobody has replied to your question. I had the same question about a year ago and I didn't know what i could do. So a friend of mine that used to do systems told me I could make a baffle. I think thats what its called, anyways all you have to do is buy a peice of particle board and make sure it isnt that weak kind, and cut out the dimensions and as close as you can without any holes for the air to come out of. the hard part is keeping it as sealed as possible. If air gets out it wont hit as hard. so what u do is measure the two holes for the subs and cut them out so the lip of the sub can just sit in and the subs are faced up and sit right in your f-body trunk. This took me two times to do it right, the first time I cut the hoels to big and the subs didnt sit in correctly so be careful and cut them out right with some kind of saw. this method is cheap and hella sick because it hits excellent. The baffle just sits in the lower part of the trunk with the subs sitting inside of it, just to clearify. Anyways just thought id help because its a good way to hold your subs and not that many people know about it.
later
-Mark
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1986 Pontiac TA 305 carbuerated.
later
-Mark
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1986 Pontiac TA 305 carbuerated.
just build one yourself if u take your time and do some research on box building you can do it. if u do go that way u can build a box that is specific for the subs you have which is better.
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Red 87'Z-28 350 tpi,MSD ignition 6al,gutted maf and airbox,
700r4 w/b&m shift kit and cor. servo
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Red 87'Z-28 350 tpi,MSD ignition 6al,gutted maf and airbox,
700r4 w/b&m shift kit and cor. servo
i wouldnt go bananas with that 'baffle' board idea. It wont sound good. And even if it does hit good, you'll keep wondering how much better it would hit with an actual sealed box
The only way it 'might' sound good is with some free-air subs in there.
The only way it 'might' sound good is with some free-air subs in there.
Have some big pics...sorry 
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LS1 Killer!
Jeremy
1989 Firebird Formula L98 350
BBK 52mm TB
Edelbrock headers and 3" Cat-back Flowmaster
K&N cone filter
Free mods
MSD/Taylor ignition
Jet AFPR
150 shot NOS
Kenny Brown subframes
Hotchkis lower control arms, panhard and strut tower brace.
Eibach Pro-kit springs
Polygraphie bushings
Monroe SensoTrac shocks/struts
12.63@109.95 NOS
14.40@95.28 motor
L98Formula@yahoo.com

------------------
LS1 Killer!
Jeremy
1989 Firebird Formula L98 350
BBK 52mm TB
Edelbrock headers and 3" Cat-back Flowmaster
K&N cone filter
Free mods
MSD/Taylor ignition
Jet AFPR
150 shot NOS
Kenny Brown subframes
Hotchkis lower control arms, panhard and strut tower brace.
Eibach Pro-kit springs
Polygraphie bushings
Monroe SensoTrac shocks/struts
12.63@109.95 NOS
14.40@95.28 motor
L98Formula@yahoo.com
i'm sorry if this seems kinda rude but don't build your own like those other guys sugested. i'm not sayin' that to build your own is a mistake but if you don't know exactly what you want out of you system and what would be best to get it then it won't be perfect. i've got to go but before i do if your serious about your system then check out crutchfield "www.crutchfield.com" order a mag. and you'll find a box that fits two 10's in a camaro or firebird that you should be pleased with.
Family car...do you know there are about 10 things that can be done to a box from crutchfield to make them better? therefore if u do a little research and are good with your hands you can build a box that is perfect for the subs, something that is hard to do with picking one out of a box
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Red 87'Z-28 350 TPI(FORMERLY 305),MSD 6AL IGNITION,GUTTED MAF AND AIRBOX,NEW FALKEN ZIEX's
700r4 w/b&m shift kit and cor. servo
2-12'' MTX 8000'S
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Red 87'Z-28 350 TPI(FORMERLY 305),MSD 6AL IGNITION,GUTTED MAF AND AIRBOX,NEW FALKEN ZIEX's
700r4 w/b&m shift kit and cor. servo
2-12'' MTX 8000'S
Trending Topics
MYPOSCAMARO is not correct at all. I built a baffle board for 2 12" RF subs a year or so ago. It hit's hard. The only problem is keeping it in place. You have to screw it to the floor of the car at the front with it pushed up hard to the rear plastic panel. To seal it off good around the edges make sure it is pretty close to the right size and cover it in think carpet similar to the carpet of the car. I actually used some carpet from a donor F-body I had which had the padding on the back still. Now to getto my argument...I had the baffle board first. Now I have a sealed box made by Q-Logic. There is no difference in the quality of the bass. I could have saved that $200 and kept the baffle board ! Don't listen to these guys about the BB idea. Unless you are going to enter an ear splitting bass contest then the single board will work great for you !
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I had a plate that fit so snug that I had to force it into place. No air at all leaked around the plate. It all leaked out around the plastic panels. Good luck making those air tight and rigid. I'm glad that Sharp had a good experience with his plate (or a bad experience with a box) but I have yet to hear a single plate system that sounds any bit better than horrible.
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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
ok no. If your bass hits that hard with a baffle board, its probably doing more harm to your ears then good. Subs are designed to fit in certain boxes, to get certain bass, to get certain sound.
This whole site is based on opinions, and my opinion is simply this..
Baffle boards suck. they leak, they rattle, they move around, they damage subs and possibly your hearing. They suck, go with a box..
kev
This whole site is based on opinions, and my opinion is simply this..
Baffle boards suck. they leak, they rattle, they move around, they damage subs and possibly your hearing. They suck, go with a box..
kev
Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
From: Mesquite, Texas
Car: 1992 Chevrolet RS Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: WC T5 conversion
Axle/Gears: Debatable . . .
You can build your own box if you like. I'm sure if you do a bb search or look at a bunch of sites you'll come across a tech article on how to make a wooden box for aour cars. However around my area you can get a custom box built from mdf thats screwed together, braced, siliconed, and then has the inside coated with liquid fiberglass for $150 and beleive me it is so worth it. Like I said thpough if you take your time and make some measurements and do some calculating as well as have patience you can do it yourself. But by the time you get done playing with the liquid fiberglasss you'll be close to the same price. Then again it may cost twice as much where you live. Your best bet is to do some research and find out which way works best for you.
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1988 Camaro
305 bored .030 over
Stock TBI
Aluminum radiator
No smog pump
gutted factor cleaner
cam ground to crane specs
timing advanced 9 degrees
no thermostat
other than that its bone stock and ran a 16.4 @ 82 mph with earth shattering wheel hop and a 2.88 60 ft time. (this was with the rebuild and cam only)
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1988 Camaro
305 bored .030 over
Stock TBI
Aluminum radiator
No smog pump
gutted factor cleaner
cam ground to crane specs
timing advanced 9 degrees
no thermostat
other than that its bone stock and ran a 16.4 @ 82 mph with earth shattering wheel hop and a 2.88 60 ft time. (this was with the rebuild and cam only)
do not so quickly disreguard a baffle board. I had one when I first got my car. It wasn't bad, I got it made by a stereo place where I live, and it pounded kind of good. of course it is no dual 10" sealed box like you can get(hatch box) but it is cheap (cost me 75$ canadian) and is easy to hide (throw the t-top cover over it) so it is easier to keep from getting stolen. I started with my BB and had it for about 6 months, it pounded but a real high levels(for a BB) it destorted(100db) so I decided to make a fiberglass box that contoured to the bottom of the well.(the idea is in a link in the stereo section of the tech articles on the thirdgen site). it took me about 2 days (2 hours the first day--had to let it dry over night-- and 2 hours the second day), it is not that complicated to do and the rewards are significant. my box is sealed, it holds 2 10"kicker SPL's(dont buy them i broke 3 subs already--cone comes off voice coil!) the air space is close in my car. they are powered by 1 kicker zr240-about 550 watts max power. but the db's now hit 127.5 according to my local shops db meter with no distortion at almost max on my deck. so dont under estimat the power of a Baffle Board.
If you go with a baffle board i'd recommend going with Pioneer Free-air Subs. but me i personally upgraded from my bazooka tube to a 10" MTX sub in a slim truck style box. And i added the MTX amp to match it. it hits much harder and better than my bazooka tube ever did. forgive my signature i still need to update it.
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1991 Pontiac Firebird(project GTP) 3.1L V6
see it on www.geocities.com/lilsap23/SEANs_HOME_PAGE.html
Pioneer stereo system: DEH-P7000R, front-4X6 2ways, rear-6X9 4ways, 10" Powered(amplified) Bazooka tube!!!!!......
AIM screen name: LiLsap23
Yahoo messenger screen name: Lilsap23
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1991 Pontiac Firebird(project GTP) 3.1L V6
see it on www.geocities.com/lilsap23/SEANs_HOME_PAGE.html
Pioneer stereo system: DEH-P7000R, front-4X6 2ways, rear-6X9 4ways, 10" Powered(amplified) Bazooka tube!!!!!......
AIM screen name: LiLsap23
Yahoo messenger screen name: Lilsap23
Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
From: Mesquite, Texas
Car: 1992 Chevrolet RS Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: WC T5 conversion
Axle/Gears: Debatable . . .
I heard (4) Pioneer free air IMPP subs back in highschool that were mounted on a baffle behind the rear seat in a cutlus. They were powered buy a cheesy off-brand amp and it would pound your ears out. I've heard JL Audio's free air subs are good but I don't have any first hand knowledge of that.
------------------
1988 Camaro
305 bored .030 over
Stock TBI
Aluminum radiator
No smog pump
gutted factor cleaner
cam ground to crane specs
timing advanced 9 degrees
no thermostat
other than that its bone stock and ran a 16.4 @ 82 mph with earth shattering wheel hop and a 2.88 60 ft time. (this was with the rebuild and cam only)
------------------
1988 Camaro
305 bored .030 over
Stock TBI
Aluminum radiator
No smog pump
gutted factor cleaner
cam ground to crane specs
timing advanced 9 degrees
no thermostat
other than that its bone stock and ran a 16.4 @ 82 mph with earth shattering wheel hop and a 2.88 60 ft time. (this was with the rebuild and cam only)
The performance of baffleboard VS box depends on speaker size and type.
In general smaller woofers (8" & 10") will like a sealed box better in an fbody. Larger speakers (15" & 18") are more likely to like a baffle board, as a box would not provide enough internal air space.
There are exceptions to this though.
For the best sound quality you definately want to go with a sealed box and small size woofers.
In general smaller woofers (8" & 10") will like a sealed box better in an fbody. Larger speakers (15" & 18") are more likely to like a baffle board, as a box would not provide enough internal air space.
There are exceptions to this though.
For the best sound quality you definately want to go with a sealed box and small size woofers.
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