I am trying to use a switch on my remote turn on wire so that I can control what amps I am running. The problem is that when I plug it into the fuse panel, I am blow a fuse. I have tried many different slots, to no avail. I have connected things into the fuse block before with no problem, so I don't know why that won't work. Any help would be appreciated.

Matt

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88 IROC-Z -- 350 L-98, 700R4, Flowmaster, K&N, MAF Sceens Removed, Airfoil, March Pullies, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Bosch Platinum Plugs, Accel 8.8 mm Wires, Hypertech Cap & Coil, Hypertech Chip, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace, One Loud Stereo!

 

You're wiring it wrong if you're blowing a fuse. The remote wire only needs to supply about .5 amps. Run a wire from the FUSED side of any fuse in the panel (that's hot, or ignition, or whatever you want) through the switch and to the amp. End of project.

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If all you want is a switch to turn on/off your amp then get a 15 foot piece of speaker wire. Connect one end to the power and remote amp terminals and the other end to the switch. Route the wire and you're done.

 

Yeah, I have everything hooked up okay except the power source. I was trying to run it to a terminal that would be hot when the ignition was on, such as the radio terminal. When I hooked up my transmission temp. gauge, I just tapped into an empty slot on the fuse block that was like that and it worked. Now, it doesn't seem to work. Maybe I have it on the wrong side or something, I don't know. I'll keep trying. Thanks

Matt

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88 IROC-Z -- 350 L-98, 700R4, Flowmaster, K&N, MAF Sceens Removed, Airfoil, March Pullies, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Bosch Platinum Plugs, Accel 8.8 mm Wires, Hypertech Cap & Coil, Hypertech Chip, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace, One Loud Stereo!

 

Are you hooking the remote in, or the power supply wire for the amp, to the fusebox?

If it is just the remote you're putting to the fusebox, maybe you want to check the remote wire that you ran. Maybe something in the car has pinched it, and it's shorting out.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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I am trying to hook up a switch for the remote turn on wire. The remote wire is not going directly to the power supply, but rather, to the switch. There is a seperate wire for the power that goes to the switch.

Matt

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drive.to/Stang_Kilr

88 IROC-Z -- 350 L-98, 700R4, Flowmaster, K&N, MAF Sceens Removed, Airfoil, March Pullies, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Bosch Platinum Plugs, Accel 8.8 mm Wires, Hypertech Cap & Coil, Hypertech Chip, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace, One Loud Stereo!

 

So it's -----remote-wire-----SWITCH-----fusebox ? There's gotta be something wrong between the switch & amp then. You could unhook the remote wire at the amp, and try your switch again. If you snap another fuse, you know the wire's pinched (& shorting) somewhere.

Or, you could just run a new wire to the switch/fusebox over the seats as a "test" wire to the amp.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

I'm confused. If you're trying to connect the power wire for your amp to the fuse box then DON'T DO IT !!! You must run a separate power wire to the battery. Also this power wire must be fused as close as practical to the battery. If you need more help setting up the wiring to power your amp then ask.

If you already have a separate power wire running to the amp and just need a remote turn on with a switch ... start with a small piece of wire and use it as a jumper between the power and remote terminals on the amp. If the power wire and the amp are OK then the amp should turn on. If it does then get another small piece of wire and use it to connect the remote terminal to a switch and use the other small wire to connect the switch to the power terminal. Now the switch should turn on/off the amp if the switch is working.

At this point you've established that the amp, its power wire, and the switch you are using is working properly. Now you can use the idea I suggested earlier or use a different 12V source to power the remote turn on. The most obvious choice is to use the same wire that powers the radio.

In any case, everything in the car should be working properly, no fuses should blow, no smoke or burning smell, ect. The power current draw for the remote turn-on is very small (unlike the main power wire which is very large). You should be able to use any 12V source in the car for the remote turn-on.

 

Belker, I think you must have missed something along the way. I am not having problems with my amp or the power wire for the amp. What I am trying to do is hook a switch up to the remote turn on wire so that I can control which amps are running from the front seat.

The problem I am running into is that I can't seem to get the switch to work. I have connected the remote wire into the switch and the ground to the switch. The problem is lying in the power for the switch. I am trying to tap into an empty slot on the fuse block, but when I have tried, it blows a fuse. I am not sure why, and that is what I am trying to figure out. I hope that cleared things up.

Matt

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irocet@hotmail.com

drive.to/Stang_Kilr

88 IROC-Z -- 350 L-98, 700R4, Flowmaster, K&N, MAF Sceens Removed, Airfoil, March Pullies, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Bosch Platinum Plugs, Accel 8.8 mm Wires, Hypertech Cap & Coil, Hypertech Chip, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace, One Loud Stereo!

 

You have a short somewhere in the circuit.

Belker is telling you how to figure out where the short is coming from. I say do exactly what he says and you will find the short.

If I had to guess, I'd say either the remote wire is pinched somewhere, or the switch is bad.

Thomas.