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Old May 13, 2001 | 06:54 PM
  #1  
bubbz89's Avatar
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Car: 1990 RS
Engine: 350
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crossover question

i currently have a pos system that includes two kenwood 10's in a banpass box with a 200w 4 channel amp (KAC746) pushing them. i have the amp bridged and it sounds decent, but i really dont know much about the built in crossovers. on each side of the amp is has a setting for lpf-off-hpf.and a little **** to set the hz or something. what setting should i use to get all low end in my speakers and all the highs out of it. i hear to much music playing through them. like vocals and such. any help is appreciated and soon i will have a better setup, but i need to know how to get all i can out of the one i have now. tia
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Old May 13, 2001 | 07:55 PM
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Here's the info you need. It is PDF so you'll need Adobe Acrobat to read it.
http://kenwood.hinet.hr/download/man...ar/KAC-746.pdf

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[This message has been edited by jobryan26 (edited May 13, 2001).]
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Old May 13, 2001 | 08:26 PM
  #3  
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Car: 1990 RS
Engine: 350
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i already have the manual, i just dont understand all that shyt, so help is still needed. thanks man.
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Old May 13, 2001 | 10:23 PM
  #4  
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From: Readsboro, VT
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Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">lpf-off-hpf</font>
Low pass filter -- off -- high pass filter.

The low pass filter is just as it implies. It only allows the low frequencies to pass. This is what you want when powering subs.

Off is, well, off. The crossover is not used and the full frequency spectrum is sent to the speakers

High pass filter allows only the high frequencies to pass. This is what you want when powering high-frequency drivers (i.e. not subs)

You want it set to low-pass. The other dial is the frequency adjustment for the crossover. The lower you set it, the lower the frequency it crosses over at. I have mine set to 80hz. If you go to too low of a frequency, your overall output won't be as loud, and you'll be calling on your other speakers to reproduce those frequencies. If you go too high, you get too much crap out of your subs. You need to fool with it and find what works best for you. Try turning the crossover frequency back a little bit, and if you need to compensate with more output, dial up a little more gain. Fool with it until you like it.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

[This message has been edited by Jim85IROC (edited May 13, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by Jim85IROC (edited May 13, 2001).]
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Old May 13, 2001 | 10:58 PM
  #5  
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Car: 1990 RS
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH-350
cool.. my amp is all the way up.. so i'll just flip her to lpf and find where i like it. thanks alot man.
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Old May 14, 2001 | 11:13 AM
  #6  
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From: Readsboro, VT
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Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by bubbz89:
cool.. my amp is all the way up.. so i'll just flip her to lpf and find where i like it. thanks alot man. </font>
I'd suggest learning how to properly set your gain control before you destroy something.



------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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Old May 14, 2001 | 11:50 AM
  #7  
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Car: 1990 RS
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH-350
i really dont know what to set it to. it was set like that when i got it. it has a **** on each side for input sensitivity, and it is all the way up. what is the best setting?
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Old May 14, 2001 | 12:02 PM
  #8  
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Ditto to Jim's suggestion. All the way up is not generally how you would want a gain set. Keep in mind a Gain control is not a volume control.

It's a litle more difficult to do with a sub setup than with mids/highs, but if you are setting the gain by ear then follow these simple steps.

Turn the gain all the way down on the amp, turn the head unit volume up until the point of distortion and then back it down one notch. Then start to raise the gain on the amp. When you reach the point of distortion on the amp then back it down just slightly. This should put you as close as you are going to get for setting the gains by ear.

L8rs

------------------
Carl
CarAudio Resources
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Old May 14, 2001 | 12:02 PM
  #9  
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The best way I have found to set the gain, is to:
  • Turn the amp's input sensitivity (gain) all the way down
  • Play a CD and turn the deck's volume to just shy of max (if your deck goes to 30, then turn it up to 27 or so)
  • Start turning the amplifier gain up until you hit a point where the speakers start distorting, or clipping.
  • Then back the gain off a small amount.
If you set it up this way, you will be able to crank the deck to the max without having any distortion.

The gain is there to match the amplifier's input to your deck's output ..... it is not a volume control for the amp (which a lot of people think that it is)

If you want your system to be louder, you need a more powerfull amp.
Maxing the gain out will just introduce distortion, and in turn, blow up your speakers. (distortion = speaker damage)

Hope this helps ya,

Thomas.
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Old May 14, 2001 | 12:08 PM
  #10  
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Yea, what Carl said
Beatchya by that much .... LOL

[This message has been edited by Stoopalini (edited May 14, 2001).]
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Old May 14, 2001 | 12:13 PM
  #11  
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Wow, that was cool...same response, same time, but beat me by like seconds...

Another method is to grab a piezo tweeter from Radio Shack for like $5-10. Take the leads from the tweeter and put them on the output from the amp with the amp in low pass mode. Turn the gain up on the amp until you hear an audible tone from the piezo and that is your point of clipping.

Basically when an amp clips it puts off harmonic distortion which covers a frequency range high enough for the tweeter to pick up on. So when a piezo tweet is able to produce sound from an amp that is set to low pass then you know you are clipping.



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Carl
CarAudio Resources
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Old May 14, 2001 | 12:53 PM
  #12  
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Car: 1990 RS
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH-350
thanks guys maybe ill get this pos sounding better today. what if the cheap speakers i have like in the dash and the panels cant turn up to say 27 without distorting? i think the ones in the dash are shot! the 6x9s sound like shyt too.
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Old May 14, 2001 | 12:56 PM
  #13  
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Car: 1990 RS
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nevermind guys i got it
thanks again for all the help
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Old May 14, 2001 | 02:00 PM
  #14  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Grand Prix, does that tweeter trick always work? I've never heard of that before. I've clipped amps on the test bench and haven't seen any effects other than the clipped waveform. Usually the top side of the sine wave clips, then the bottom side, and before you know it you have a square wave output!

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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Old May 14, 2001 | 02:21 PM
  #15  
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Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
What do you mean by clipped??
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Old May 14, 2001 | 02:27 PM
  #16  
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Jim,

Should almost always work if you are dealing with a low pass filtered amp. When you clip as seen on an o-scope, that wave will produce harmonic distortion throughout the sound spectrum. That distortion (usually inaudable) will cause the piezo to make a small audible sound just because of the nature of the piezo. You will probably only hear poping at best but it will be audible none the less.

This was a little trick I picked up from Richard over on the carsound boards a while back and sure enough it seems to work.

FastRS:

Clipping is when you take a normally rounded sine wave and start to flatten out the peaks of the wave essentially making it a square wave or almost square wave. This is not natural for sound and is caused usually by the limitations of the equipment amplifing the sound. The lower quality the IC's and/or the less power available to the circuits, the sooner an amp will clip the wave form resulting in either distortion or poor handling characteristics of the speaker.

If you want a little more explination, go read up on the basics of amps in my tech articles section of CarAudio Resources.

[This message has been edited by GndPrx (edited May 14, 2001).]
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Old May 14, 2001 | 04:47 PM
  #17  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Good stuff. Thanks.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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