So it looks like I might be getting an '85 305 platform. Over the summer I'm going to swap it into my current V6 ride. It's going to be fueled with the rocherster CCC carb. And I'd like to change that.

I want to get away from computers. Right now I know I need a vacuum advance distrubutor, remove the electronic fuel pump in the tank of my car and put a carbed pick-up in, and get a new intake manifold and carb.

I'm thinking the Edlebrock Performer RPM intake manifold. But I'm stuck as to what carb to use. I need this to be a street carb, gas milage is a consern but so is performance. What should I go for? I should also mention this engine will be cammed, a mild street cam, not a honker, but not the crappy peanut type thing that's currently in there.

Once I'm done. What kind of numbers (on the track and at the dyno) am I looking at?

Thanks for your patience.

 

iv got a rebuilt rochester Qjet non CC for sale

 

id say a holley 650 or maybe the dp

 

I'd guess, if done for the street but without high performance heads, around 275 hp. Around mid-14s in the quarter.

A good old QJet (non cc) is about as good as anything out there. Just follow the instructions in the Tech Articles on tuning it and you will do quite well.

Lots of other folks like Holly or Edelbrock, the latter for holding a tune on the street. The former for all out quarter mile times.

I'm currently trying out an Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb, and it really has a lot of low rpm grunt. Goes like a bat when you floor it!!!

Compared to the old QJet I had, it doesn't have the same higher rpm rush you get when those giant secondaries open, but I wonder if it is actually making the same hp at higher rpms and it just isn't as noticeable because it comes on harder lower down?

Does anybody have an observation on that?

 

you dont have to remove the electric pump.
the way i did and saved a lot of screaming and agravation, was to use the electric pump to feed the mec. pump.
is simple as connecting the pressure line with a T fitting straight to the return line, there will be a slight positive pressure to feed the mecanical pump.
to activate the electrical pump, i just found the relay (just above the power brake) and conected the HOT wire to the pump via a switch in the cockpit on the place i like the must and i run it whenever i want, if i ever forget to select on, it doesnt matter because the mecanical pump will suck the gas via the return line, just remember so you will have always filtered gas to the pump and carb.
Fernando.

 

Depending upon emissions testing/inspection in your area, you may not have any choice but the CC carb. Don't know why you want to get away from it, mine has given me exactly zero trouble in almost 3 years.

The best time for the '57 in my sig was with a q-jet. I have yet to get close to that with the Holley (reaction times and consistency are a little better, though).

The q-jet is the best street/strip compromise out there. The CC q-jet is the better street choice, and won't hurt you on the strip. Don't know why you'd want to get away from it...

 

Because it's computer controlled, and I don't want to mess with wiring harnesses and swapping all the computer crap...

I don't think I'm going to do the swap, what about making guages work, down time, problems with the swap, this car being my daily driver I don't have the confidence and know how... I took a look at the engine and it's a nightmare of junk...

Maybe if I had a step by step guide to making it work 100%, but i can't expect someone to take thier tme to tell me about it...

Plus what about NJ emmisions... we just adopted Cali emmisions testing here... they'd see an 8 cylinder in a 6's place, and fail me on the spot....

 

That's not true. We have as strict of standards here as they do in CA, and I don't have any problems. Besides, it's based on federal standards, enforcement is all that's local.

You just need to have all of the equipment that a factory V8 would have, plus the emissions stickers; and it all has to work properly, of course. The only thing you can't do is put in an older engine/system than the car itself is.

 

actually you just need to know how to tune.........everything in the sig except for the dual exhaust fast passed ohio e-check. just turned the mixture screws in a turn, bumped the idle up and ran a little rubbing alcohol in the tank. 750 carbed 383 with a big ol' nasty cam passed like a dream with no emissions equipment except for a cat. but we have no visual inspection except to see if a cat is present.

Rich

 

Unless you have to pass visual........

 

ok i got your answer.......before swapping the engine,,, take some pics. then swap the engine and get it to run good. then figure out a way to rig the hood so it wont open so they cant take a look, but be like..."hey iv got pics!" then show them the pics and everything is fine

 

We have all the testing Cali does... dyno emmisions, visual, .. the works...

Anyone have any comments on the details of the swap? If I rip out the computer, how will the guages work? What about everything else? Can I just swap it directly in (with V8 mounts and without the computer and with a new Distributor and carb) and have it work? Are there any other details? I'll have the entire V8 car, what else will I need to switch? Any special tools?

 

I'm curious, what do the factory in tank pumps put out for psi-why put another mechanical pump in line with the in tank? Mechanicals are nice but rob horsepower-why not use factory in tank pump, buy a regulator from summit or jegs $16.00 and you'll never have to worry about fuel starvation as your mods progress. Just my 2 cents.

 

IHI, the factory in-tank pumps will put out in excess of 60 psi. However, you have to use a 3-port regulator (with return line) because you CANNOT dead-head these pumps - they need the flow to keep from burning out. I've never seen a $16 3-port fuel regulator. Mechanical pumps don't take any more power than an electric pump (you pay for the energy, one way or another). There are mechanical pumps that put out more volume than the factory in-tank pump, so it is possible to have to worry about fuel starvation even with the factory in-tank (although not likely with a 305). They are also known to wear out.

Xenodrgn, you don't seem to be getting the message. If you have visual inspection and sniffer, you don't have any choice but to run a feedback computerized system. Unless you consider bribery a choice...

Don't be intimidated by all the wiring and such. Take the aforementioned pictures (but for a different reason), label as you disconnect. The harness will come off in one piece, believe it or not. I unbolted the sensors and left them on the harness, since they had to go into the other car anyway (labeled where they were, of course).

The part that makes the least sense is even doing a V6 to V8 swap. Unless this car has some sentimental value, it makes more sense economically to just buy a running factory V8 car. But, guys are doing it all the time, anyway (I just didn't know any better before I started mine). The Motor Swap forum has plenty of posts with the details.

 

five7kid... you've got a great point. it's not worth it.

The car is semi-sentimental, as it is my first car.

Oh well, I'll make my second car count.

 

Whatever you do, keep your first car. Being your first car, that is one reason I would say go ahead and do the V6 to V8 swap. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, just trying to keep your feet on the ground.

I've had 6 engines in my first car, not counting rebuilding the original 283. I wouldn't trade going faster for being able to say, "It's my first car."

Yes, keep your first car. A 3rd gen is a great first car, and worth keeping.

 

Well this is my third car, my first was a classic, which I still have. The thing about e tests, is I know they put in the VIN for the car. That tells the computer what motor it has, a V8 runs dirtier than a V6, first problem. Second, the gages work off the computer, lose the computer lose the gagues. The info about the E tests are based on the PA regs, different from NJ, but it may still help. And the computer, that is what a friend told me.

For a thought would you be able to install 2 cats, for the test? Would that help out any with the 5 gas check?

 

run 2 cats in line!! lol or use one as a exhaust tip but hide it.