Motor running very rich?
Motor running very rich?
I just purchased a 1982 Camaro Z28 and it has a 305 engine with a four barrel carb. I was wondering if anyone would know the carb settings and the location of the set screws that need adjustment so the car runs a little leaner. There is a very strong smell of "rich" from the car as someone told me. Please help me out, I am new to the carb thing so any info would help very much.
Thanks
Thanks
does the car also bog?? my 84 305 just failed emissions yesterday because it runs ungodly rich. your ignition might also not be functioning properly, resulting in an incomplete burn. also keep in mind that running rich clogs cats
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'84 Berlinetta, LG4, 700R-4, starwars interior, no major mods yet
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'84 Berlinetta, LG4, 700R-4, starwars interior, no major mods yet
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
The adjustments aren't the problem. Don't twiddle with them until you repair the carb. Besides, the adjustments you can get to have almost no effect at all anyway, they're just the "fine tuning" and should usually be left in the factory position.
The usual difficulty is some plugs in the base of the fuel bowl. If you take off the carb, remove the 2 long screws in the rear of it that hold the air horn on, turn it upside down, and take out the 3 screws that hold on the throttle plate, you will see 2 large blobs sticking out of the bottom of the casting near the front of the carb. These will no doubt be covered up with all sorts of funk. Wire brush them clean, and you will discover 4 aluminum plugs that are sort of spun into the chinesium casting, that seal up holes used during the mfg. process as access to various passages that ar driled in the casting. Those always leak. They have manifold vacuum blelow, and the bottom of the fuel bowl above; so the engine is literally sucking gasoline through them. This makes the car get terrible gas mileage, idle (and cruise) ridiculously rich, foul plugs, ruin cats, and fail emissions inspection.
Sand the metal all around them down to clean, new-looking material, lacquer thinner them until they are absolutely perfectly clean, and epoxy over them. Let the epoxy set up fully (24 hours if possible) before re-installing and operating the carb. It would be a good idea to rebuild the carb at the same time, but those carbs are some of the most difficult to rebuild and get right, so if it isn't too terribly nasty, try just doing the epoxy thing and see if it makes a difference.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
The usual difficulty is some plugs in the base of the fuel bowl. If you take off the carb, remove the 2 long screws in the rear of it that hold the air horn on, turn it upside down, and take out the 3 screws that hold on the throttle plate, you will see 2 large blobs sticking out of the bottom of the casting near the front of the carb. These will no doubt be covered up with all sorts of funk. Wire brush them clean, and you will discover 4 aluminum plugs that are sort of spun into the chinesium casting, that seal up holes used during the mfg. process as access to various passages that ar driled in the casting. Those always leak. They have manifold vacuum blelow, and the bottom of the fuel bowl above; so the engine is literally sucking gasoline through them. This makes the car get terrible gas mileage, idle (and cruise) ridiculously rich, foul plugs, ruin cats, and fail emissions inspection.
Sand the metal all around them down to clean, new-looking material, lacquer thinner them until they are absolutely perfectly clean, and epoxy over them. Let the epoxy set up fully (24 hours if possible) before re-installing and operating the carb. It would be a good idea to rebuild the carb at the same time, but those carbs are some of the most difficult to rebuild and get right, so if it isn't too terribly nasty, try just doing the epoxy thing and see if it makes a difference.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Yes the car also bogs very badly! HELP!!! What can I do for now until I get it to the shop? Is there a screw on the carb that I can adjust for now? I drove the car from a small town about 40 minutes away and I put 20 bucks in it and by the time I got home it was on E!
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