neeed help with this one........
neeed help with this one........
ok my car has a problem of sorts...first what causes run-on then because i'll shut my car off and it'll diesel and die or, it'll shut off then sart running again on its own!!!???why?? and then when the engine reaches like 210 degrees it'll lose rpm and try to die, right in the middle of traffic? vacuum advace going bad??? if you hit the gas when this happens or slow down to fast it'll also do this you have to put it in neutral to keep it from dying?????whats wrong here??? also on my edlebrock it gets this brown sticky residue in the top of the carb???why? the k&n is in there and sealed down???please help if you can???
------------------
89 firebird formula
360 10:1compression (350 .060 over)/fully balnced and blueprinted
comp cams xe262 cam
performer rpm intake/port matched to heads
#1405edlebrock 600
sportsman 2 heads 64cc 2.02/1.60 valves 200cc intake runner/cnc pocket ported
msd 6al/msd8.5 super condutor wires
h.e.i. proform 50,000 volt vac. advance ditributor
700r-4 with 3.08 first gear and 3.23 posi 7 5/8 rear end.
b trans shift kit(will kill shifts...suck dong!!)
shorty heddman hedders with custom 3" pipe y-pipe back(no damn cat!) with 40 series flowmaster!
griffin daul1" core rad.cutom fabrication to fit(but no cutting )
future mods: 406 roller REALLY REALLY REALLY RADICAL!!!!!.with lots of NOS
------------------
89 firebird formula
360 10:1compression (350 .060 over)/fully balnced and blueprinted
comp cams xe262 cam
performer rpm intake/port matched to heads
#1405edlebrock 600
sportsman 2 heads 64cc 2.02/1.60 valves 200cc intake runner/cnc pocket ported
msd 6al/msd8.5 super condutor wires
h.e.i. proform 50,000 volt vac. advance ditributor
700r-4 with 3.08 first gear and 3.23 posi 7 5/8 rear end.
b trans shift kit(will kill shifts...suck dong!!)
shorty heddman hedders with custom 3" pipe y-pipe back(no damn cat!) with 40 series flowmaster!
griffin daul1" core rad.cutom fabrication to fit(but no cutting )
future mods: 406 roller REALLY REALLY REALLY RADICAL!!!!!.with lots of NOS
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Your motor runs-on when you shut it off
because the combustion chamber is getting too hot. Something is glowing. The edge of a valve or an edge of the combustion chamber
or the spark plug itself. Try a cooler heat range plug, run higher octane fuel. 93 or94 octane. Your rad may have a good name
but isn't cooling your motor. The factory aluminum ones with the plastic tanks work fine. None stock fan or pulleys and or electric fan. 99% of the available electric fans don't pull half as much air thru the radiator as the factory 7 blade clutch fan
and hinder airflow at high speeds. No fan shroud, missing chin spoiler under the front of the nose. These cars are bottom breathers
and need all the factory air directors
and shroud to work.
Retarded ignition timing will cause a hot combustion chamber (late burn) and cause you to have to open the carb more to idle, therfore feeding the run on. Install and anti dieseling solenoid on the carb. This opens the carb to curb idle when you turn the key on and closes the carb off when you shut it off, stopping any air flow and stopping run-on. Your car will want to die
right in traffic while idling at 210+ because
the fuel in the carb is getting too hot and foaming up(perculating) and spilling out the
venturies. Try blocking the exhaust heat riser passages if they are open on your heads. 210+ is too hot and will cause all these problems and wareout your motor too soon. Start with the rad and suspect every thing that is nonstock in the cooling system.
because the combustion chamber is getting too hot. Something is glowing. The edge of a valve or an edge of the combustion chamber
or the spark plug itself. Try a cooler heat range plug, run higher octane fuel. 93 or94 octane. Your rad may have a good name
but isn't cooling your motor. The factory aluminum ones with the plastic tanks work fine. None stock fan or pulleys and or electric fan. 99% of the available electric fans don't pull half as much air thru the radiator as the factory 7 blade clutch fan
and hinder airflow at high speeds. No fan shroud, missing chin spoiler under the front of the nose. These cars are bottom breathers
and need all the factory air directors
and shroud to work.
Retarded ignition timing will cause a hot combustion chamber (late burn) and cause you to have to open the carb more to idle, therfore feeding the run on. Install and anti dieseling solenoid on the carb. This opens the carb to curb idle when you turn the key on and closes the carb off when you shut it off, stopping any air flow and stopping run-on. Your car will want to die
right in traffic while idling at 210+ because
the fuel in the carb is getting too hot and foaming up(perculating) and spilling out the
venturies. Try blocking the exhaust heat riser passages if they are open on your heads. 210+ is too hot and will cause all these problems and wareout your motor too soon. Start with the rad and suspect every thing that is nonstock in the cooling system.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




